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Radio wiring issue


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Ok then as title states......

I have a cd radio part no. XQE000160PMA wired to permanent live (to battery) plus wired to a switched live (cigarette lighter) then wired to earth!

Stereo works fine, on ignition or with ignition off. But cuts out for a second when the lights are engaged ie when flashing main beam or when head lights put on at night!?!

As far as i am aware the wiring is totaly independent of each other? I have done the wiring up grade for the head lights as shown in a thread on this forum. Plus fitted a light bar that is wired to be activated when full beam is on.

Why is the stereo cutting out when the lights areactivated???......when permanent live disconnected and only working off ignition it's ok.....disconnect ignition switched wire and using permanent live the stereo cuts for a second out when lights activated?

Any ideas

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It's most likely an earth fault. Depending on which vehicle, (certainly Td5,) there is a common earth point on the bulkhead, behind the coolant expansion bottle. The lights, ABS module, radio and a few others are grounded there together, a bad/loose connection there will cause this problem.

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So update...

Checked earth.....NO change

But i took out the inline fuses on the up graded light wiring one at a time...

Took one inline fuse out..... stereo still cut out when lights activated!

Replaced it and took the other inline fuse out on the up graded light wiring and yeeha stereo DIDN'T cut out when lights turned on!?!

Hope this info helps??? Me, I'm no wiser! Only it's light related, like i didn't know that!?!

As stated i have used the upgrade light wiring off this forum (old thread with photos iirc)

Why does the stereo not cut out on x1 of the light wires but does on the other yet both wired the same, both go to identical relays, dip and main beam with light bar work pefectly! Grrrrrrrr hate electrical work! If i can't see it, i can't understand it!!!

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It sounds as though that permanent live is suffering from a volts drop as you switch on a heavy current load like the lights or beam and then it recovers a split second later.

Have you used good thick wires capable of carrying the current the lights demand?

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If one of your upgraded light circuits appears to cause the fault then I'd be looking closer at that. Try swapping relays over to rule them out, then check the connections on that particular circuit. If it's drawing more current as Peaklander suggests then poor connections can cause this. 

Has this just started or has it been an ongoing issue since upgrading?

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@ Scotts90

Just started about a month ago, did the light wiring upgrade some 5 to 6 years ago...... will look at the relays and swap them about after work and let you guys know the score.

And to put the Cherry on the cake!?! The wife now tells me the stereo is playing up in her little Peugeot!

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Ok checked and rechecked!?! Still the same Grrrrr.

 

20180730_173632.thumb.jpg.506e2b15ee0b877f7c6d34fea79720f8.jpg

This is how the lights are wired.....

If incorrect please advise...... i have NO clue as to where the problem is, all connections are good, lights work as they should ie dip when dip activated and main beam on when activated 

Cheers for the help guys

Andy 

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I think that the voltage is getting pulled down somewhere at a high resistant connection or it might be the battery itself that's showing signs of old age and taking a moment to recover when a heavy load is applied.

To try to isolate the problem to the wiring you could disconnect each of the four outputs in turn at the relays. So pull one of the connectors off pin 87 so that you cut out N/S dip then O/S dip then move to do the same to the mains. That would also reduce the current required anyway so it might not be a fair test but could be worth a try.

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Mine did exactly the same. Would cut radio when lights operated. More worryingly occasionally it would also cut power to stop solenoid for split second when lights turned on. It was poor earth from transfer box to painted galvanised chassis. Cleaned off paint back to clean metal and has been faultless for 4 years.

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Well spent all afternoon checking wiring to lights and relays ih and fuses.... All good and everything light wise works as it should. Having done as Peaklander suggested and remove wires one at a time from 87 pin on relays.

The only thing i can think is that it is ignition related???.....But have no idea what to check or how!?!

The stereo works off the ignition and with ignition off as wired permanent live to do so.

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Have you tried wiring the radio straight to the battery, permanent and ignition live at same time?

My thoughts are that the LEDs switching on are causing a load of electrical noise on the ignition live, which is interfering with the radio. Perhaps the radio is getting on a bit, and it is becoming more sensitive to this sort of thing.

I don't think there's anything wrong with the wiring to the LEDs, though it is possible that the LED units are going south, creating more noise, drawing more current than they should etc... You could try running these straight from the battery as well....

 

Isolate and test.

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On 7/29/2018 at 7:53 PM, Mutley said:

Ok then as title states......

...I have done the wiring up grade for the head lights as shown in a thread on this forum. Plus fitted a light bar that is wired to be activated when full beam is on.

There is a light bar...is this a recent addition?

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Ok so stereo out and with just the wires from the motor i attached  a test light to the permanent live and earth, activated light switch and test light dimmed.....

Attached test light to cigarette lighter live (for ignition switch) and earth. Activated light switch and test light dimmed again!?!

So the lights are drawing power off both circuits  

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I'd say there's a bad connection somewhere, this could be on the feed or earth side or your 6 mo old battery isn't happy. I'd start with a voltmeter on the battery (a handful of £). 

Then try the obvious earths such as chassis to transfer box and big thick battery negative to chassis or wherever it goes. There's a small earth high up on the RHS of the Transfer box and another on the bulkhead near the pedal boxes.

You could also clean-up the 12v feed from alternator to chunky fusebox in engine bay.

That would be a start...

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3 hours ago, Mutley said:

So the lights are drawing power off both circuits  

It's really that they are both drawing power from the battery. The whole vehicle is a set of "loads" all connected to the battery, mostly all in parallel with fuses protecting each, just as your lights.

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Ok so decided to get down and dirty with the LR yesterday.....

The decision was the Defender would go on top!....So under i go, torch and spanners at the ready. Earth strap removal and cleaning being the nature of the game (see i do listen to you guys)...

First thing i notice is a thick black cable with an end cap hanging mid air!?! When i traced it back it was fixed to a bolt on the bell housing, then the penny dropped, it was an Earth cable!!! And the lug to the chassi had broken! Not sure how as there is no sign of corrosion?

Any how obviously needs fixing and could, fingers crossed be the answer to my problem??? Removed and cleaned other earth points whilst under there just to make it a worth while exercise!

Will get a couple of cable lugs and then i can play with my heavy duty Hex crimp tool again, all the time reminding wifey why i was justified in buying it at the time.

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