Alsace_rangie Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 Posting this in International, as the question can apply to more than one model. On my old Range Rovers (classics) with imperial bolts, when replacing calipers I saw no mention of needing thread lock. I just torqued them up and never had any issues. Now I have a Disco with metric bolts (12 point 13mm) and it seems new bolts come with a pre-applied thread lock. So, does that imply to always use new bolts when re-mounting the calipers? And of course they must have the thread lock. (they are not expensive, but delivery is usually more than the bolts!) Or just use loctite on the old bolts? Or maybe a non-locking thread sealer Or just reuse and leave them dry (perhaps a thin wipe of copper grease or maybe a non-locking thread sealer) and torque up to spec? Must admit, on other cars I have worked on, some have had lock-tabs, some spring-washers. Others nothing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 If the old bolts are in good condition, just clean the threads in the bracket and the bolts and use some thread lock. The thread lock is there to prevent thread corrosion as much as it is to prevent the bolts loosening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 So copper slip could be used then ? I have enough trouble undoing caliper bolts as it is without locktiting the bloody things in ! Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 40 minutes ago, Mo Murphy said: So copper slip could be used then ? I have enough trouble undoing caliper bolts as it is without locktiting the bloody things in ! Don't! Appropriate thread-lock (blue or green if I remember correctly) should as @Snagger says keep the thread from rusting up and prevent it shaking loose. If you use the red one then you need heat to break the thread-lock. Now a tale of why not... Quite a few years ago whilst my L322 was still under warranty it went into a garage to have a sticking caliper replaced. Anyway about a month later it developed a bit of a clicking / knocking most pronounced when turning / maneuvering at low speeds. Bugger I thought I've done a CV or two... But it was a bit weird, didn't sound like what I'd expect a broken CV to sound like. Eventually managed to track it down and unbeknownst to me the garage had put copper slip onto the caliper bolts and they'd worked loose so the clicking / knocking was the caliper rotating as it was loose. Luckily it couldn't go anywhere but it wasn't a pleasant discovery. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 @Ed Poore It was tongue in cheek, Ed 🤣 But thanks for the cautionary tale ! Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted August 29, 2020 Share Posted August 29, 2020 I knew that, I do know you . It was more for those that haven't had the pleasure (?) of meeting you. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted August 30, 2020 Share Posted August 30, 2020 (edited) I always use thread lock on the calliper bolts of my 300TDi Defender. I check the state of the bolt heads, run a die nut down the bolt and a tap down the hole. The thread lock is to stop the bolts rusting in. I have had the front calliper bolts come loose even with thread lock. I use Loctite. The 12x 1.25 mm thread size is a demand from europe Edited August 30, 2020 by mmgemini Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alsace_rangie Posted August 31, 2020 Author Share Posted August 31, 2020 Thanks all. I ordered new bolts in case I need them, only €0.5 each. Just not sure if they are the pre-lock-treated. But will use some blue thread lock if not. For just corrosion protection I have used a PTFE containing thread seal e.g. on water pump bolts. But this does not really do much to prevent loosening. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uninformed Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 A lot of the after market bolts are junk, no mater what grade or class is stamped on them. If the Genuine ones are in ok condition, clean and reuse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 I have an old imperial Rangy axle on the back of mine. Last new caliper bolts (unloctited) came beautifully individually wrapped in aged brown paper with ink pad stamped quality stamps. Theres something nice about new old stock. Mo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted September 18, 2020 Share Posted September 18, 2020 3 hours ago, uninformed said: A lot of the after market bolts are junk, no mater what grade or class is stamped on them. If the Genuine ones are in ok condition, clean and reuse. On Disco 3s being Ford owned the bolts are weaker than the thread lock and shear when undoing them!!!! Once the head has snapped off they can be undone by fingers!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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