200sx Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 Hey guys, Doing abit of a sort out on the Land Rover 90 pickup and I’ve rebuilt the seat belt area, striker plates and seatbox using yrmit panels. I am now looking to paint it all, I’ve for dinitrol hard drying underseal for the underside but what can I use for the insides? Need to paint the seatbox, battery tray, floors, front of rear tub...basically the whole insides of a 90 truck cab I do not have access to any air or compressor so will have to be a spray can or maybe brushed on? what’s my options? Bed liner, but once done there’s no going back? Had a good search and really struggling to find something suitable. it’s strictly a off roader so needs to be pretty hard wearing and mud resistant. I’m looking to just keep it easy and do it all black cheers guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
driveallknight Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 Im also considering the same job, interested in the replies from the others. How should I treat the already painted surfaces? Just clean with some kind of solvent and paint over? For the areas where the paint has worn thru straight to the bare metal should I prime first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 Use a solvent cleaner to ensure no oil or grease present lightly rub surfaces to be painted with a scotch bright pad or wet and dry paper, any bare metal will need to be covered with a primer first, etch primer if it's aluminium, then spray or brush, brush painting will give a thicker covering, spray will look smoother as to paint choice you could use black smoothrite easy enough to touch up if needed regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sharp Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 (edited) I've repainted a few aluminium panels, floors and the box section from the midrow seats. My first attempt flaked off in places because I didn't abrade the aluminium properly so definitely give it a good going over with scotch brite or sanding and degreasing. The hardest wearing finish I've had was quite a quick job on the floor panels brushed on with thinned down paintman etch primer then 2 coats of buzzweld 1 gloss brushed on. I took the old finish off with a flapdisc and then degreased it before painting. Seems to have held up ok but they've not had much bashing around to be fair. You want quite a thin coat of etch primer, it's easy to overdo it with a brush. I've not used bedliner before, it looks like it would be harder to clean than a gloss finish but I don't know. Driveallnight, you will need to prime any bare aluminium with etch primer and abrade any good existing paintwork that you want to paint over. I've used spray on etch primer on panels with some existing paintwork still on them and not had any adverse reactions but I don't know if that's the correct thing to do. If you have areas of white corrosion then you will want to remove as much as you can. Edited February 2, 2021 by Sharp 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 It's important with aluminium to abrade it just before painting so the paint goes on before it has a chance to react with the atmosphere. By all means do the bulk of prep but go over it just before painting. People seem to get good results by brush with enamel paints, eg from Paintman but I haven't tried personally. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200sx Posted February 2, 2021 Author Share Posted February 2, 2021 Would I be better off using smoothrite from a spray can or brushed from a tin? Will be painting on top of etch primer. They seem to offer either choice between the two Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 (edited) In my experience the spray cans have a habit of blocking the nozzle and then not spraying at all I tend to just use brushable, thinning it very slightly works for me also regards Stephen Edited February 2, 2021 by Stellaghost Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
200sx Posted February 2, 2021 Author Share Posted February 2, 2021 Do you find much difference in the finish between brushing and spray can? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted February 2, 2021 Share Posted February 2, 2021 9 x out of 10 spray will look better, but does it really matter, it's going to get grubby in cab in normal life anyway, but then I've never been that fastidious about its looks regards Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted February 3, 2021 Share Posted February 3, 2021 9 hours ago, cackshifter said: It's important with aluminium to abrade it just before painting so the paint goes on before it has a chance to react with the atmosphere. By all means do the bulk of prep but go over it just before painting. People seem to get good results by brush with enamel paints, eg from Paintman but I haven't tried personally. Ali will react literally seconds after going over it... so you’ll always need etch primer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgo70 Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 I use epoxy primer for everything, it will stick anywhere and is more durable. If you go to an autobody supplier they usually have it in spray cans as well as regular paint cans. For a nice finish I'll usually clean with degreaser, scuff 120 grit, spray primer sealer, spray high build, wet sand to 600 grit and then finish coat. For stuff that won't be seen I'll skip the high build and wet sand and just spray urethane top coat within the coating window (usually up to 24 hours). Not sure if you guys can get it but I've read good things about Steel-It. I guess a lot of the off road race teams are using it as it's really durable and you can weld through it. You would want the polyurethane here not the epoxy, no primer needed but they do have it, just can't weld through that though. https://steel-it.com/pages/motorsports-powersports Sean Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkie Posted February 4, 2021 Share Posted February 4, 2021 Like most things, a quality product can make a big difference. I have always found U-POL etch primer to be far superior to cheaper alternatives. Halfords sell it in large rattle cans in the UK. You can get good results from spray cans if they are properly mixed and you don't use them right to the end when they go all splattery. You need to keep them mixed whilst spraying and give them a short blast upside-down if the nozzle starts to clog up. Finishing with a good clear coat (U-POL again) will also produce a durable finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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