soutie Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 In advancing of painting my newly skinned doors I thought I better fit them to see if some fettling is required before painting. First off I noticed that I need to bend the top rear of both doors over. However what I can't get my head around is how to adjust them so the lower rear where the door lock is does not stick out. Has anybody got any tips? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soutie Posted May 23, 2021 Author Share Posted May 23, 2021 Left hand side latch part sticking out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Did you have to repair the frames ? Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Badger110 Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Welcome to Land Rover alignment The door when laid flat will curve inwards and this is why your lock area is proud when the tops are in the correct position. Remove the rubbers as they'll get damaged whilst you bend and manipulate the doors. I started with the lock area, this is your datum point, so get them to shut and remain engaged with the lock, then pull the tops of the doors out to allow them to sit correctly. How you do this is down to you as they're your doors. I used bits of wood, my weight and at one point, a rubber mallet and quite abit of swearing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soutie Posted May 23, 2021 Author Share Posted May 23, 2021 The doors had new bottom frames welded in and I fitted new skins to them. Thanks for the advice on the rubbers. I had fitted me as without the seemed fine, but I wanted to check what difference they made and if I could still get the doors to close. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soutie Posted May 23, 2021 Author Share Posted May 23, 2021 Rubber removed and lock fitted. The issue seems to be the space for the door is too small. Big gap at the bottom front and none at the top. While at the back hardly any space at the bottom of the vertical and lots at the top. I had to take the spacer out of the door latch for it to close. Only thing I can think of is that when replacing the rear cross member it has shunted forward every thing. I wonder now if I can move the b pillar forward by a couple of mm to get the space needed? Any other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 B post is spot welded to sill chanel & bolted to the roof lower edge. So you might get a bit of movement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 looks to me like moving the lower hinge to the front and the upper hinge to the rear. Untighten the screws and you can move them a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Has been fully stripped and rebuilt ? I see you have an internal roll cage too and wonder if that has moved anything in the process of installing ? What do the front doors fit like ? The top edge of the door looks closer to the roof (vertically) gutter at the front than at the back too? I've got a couple of SW's here so could check the width of the 2nd row doors (both original) As Ralph says the top of the B post could be moved a little but will obviously change the front door fit Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soutie Posted May 23, 2021 Author Share Posted May 23, 2021 Thanks for all the replies. I will get back to it on Friday so will report progress then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Troll Hunter Posted May 24, 2021 Share Posted May 24, 2021 If you're fitting new door hinges you may have the same trouble as I had with my front doors when fitting a set of S/S hinges and bolts. The securing "nuts" were not the same size as the originals and did not allow the door hinge to fit in its original position. It was too far back . You can see the difference in the photo below. I couldn't use the original fixings because they were imperial threads and the new ones are metric. I ended up making my own fixings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soutie Posted May 28, 2021 Author Share Posted May 28, 2021 (edited) As per my post on the members forum. I have come to the conclusion when replacing my rear cross member it has shunted everything forward 5 to 6 mm. See how the roof overlaps the C pillar. Hence I left the B pillar alone. Sanded the striker spacer down so the door will fit. Just need to bend in the top rear of the door. This is with the seal back on so once I have bent the door I can live with it. Edited May 28, 2021 by soutie Spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve b Posted May 28, 2021 Share Posted May 28, 2021 Looks good now , and the colour of the 110 is lovely Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soutie Posted May 28, 2021 Author Share Posted May 28, 2021 I like the Atlantic Green. Can't wait for the doors to be painted now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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