kevin50 Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Well Have I done the right thing here, Im absolutely hopeless when it comes to engines. bought this A1 Reconditioned Land Rover Series 2.25L Petrol Engine (mod-sales.com)Everything except the Fan and dip stick seem good , thought the fan would be an easy fix untill I discovered that the pulley is damaged, Talking to a mate and he says I can put normal one back on and run 12 volt as this one is 24.A few pics so yous can see what I have,I have a few but first question is have I wasted my money ?Second Should I leave it 24 volt, I know the Alternator needs changing but what else do I need to change to go 12 volt ?. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Just the dizzy, but you will need some 12V alternator brackets to fit the 12v alternator. If your truck is 12V, convert the engine to 12v, way too much hassle swapping everything else around. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin50 Posted September 30, 2021 Author Share Posted September 30, 2021 8 minutes ago, Bowie69 said: Just the dizzy, but you will need some 12V alternator brackets to fit the 12v alternator. If your truck is 12V, convert the engine to 12v, way too much hassle swapping everything else around. Thanks Mate its a rebuild just at rolling chassis stage at the mo, but dropping engine in soon as its on floor and taking up to much room. So obviously I will need new leads ect, these are the ones I have now in pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 30, 2021 Share Posted September 30, 2021 Yep, radio shielded plug wires and dizzy, all very expensive kit, may well be worth flogging on ebay, oh, and the plugs if shielded, £20 each last time I looked, iirc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin50 Posted September 30, 2021 Author Share Posted September 30, 2021 1 minute ago, Bowie69 said: Yep, radio shielded plug wires and dizzy, all very expensive kit, may well be worth flogging on ebay, oh, and the plugs if shielded, £20 each last time I looked, iirc. Yes was thinking that will get money back to buy my 12 volt stuff, yes plugs are shielded , I have 24 volt alt , dizzy, leads and plugs. Not sure what they are worth together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 If they have bent the fan and broken the pulley like that. Since the engine was built up, then I’d be replacing the water pump and having a close look at the surrounding area for cracks while I was at it - the pump casing and bearings will have been hugely overloaded. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin50 Posted October 1, 2021 Author Share Posted October 1, 2021 The water pump seems to spin freely, no noises but will give it a good check over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 The fan being damaged is no great problem in this country, it is an upgraded unit for the 24V setup, as it is expected to sit on the hand throttle for extended periods charging the batteries for the radio gear. In the UK or even most other places, there's no real benefit to be found, just extra noise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin50 Posted October 1, 2021 Author Share Posted October 1, 2021 Will I need to change the starter motor too ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 1, 2021 Share Posted October 1, 2021 Yup, believe so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qhriss Posted October 2, 2021 Share Posted October 2, 2021 Find an electric radiator fan in scrap yard and work a sensor/switch setup , cheaper than the kenlowe kit and you loose that massive lump of bent fan ! Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin50 Posted October 3, 2021 Author Share Posted October 3, 2021 On 10/2/2021 at 11:01 AM, Qhriss said: Find an electric radiator fan in scrap yard and work a sensor/switch setup , cheaper than the kenlowe kit and you loose that massive lump of bent fan ! Q Think I can just put odinary smaller fan on I have found a 12 volt pulley that fits. Gonna advertise all the 24 volt stuff as a Kit, must be somemone out there interested. Not sure what price to put on them though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Qhriss Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 On 10/3/2021 at 2:49 PM, kevin50 said: Think I can just put odinary smaller fan on I have found a 12 volt pulley that fits. Gonna advertise all the 24 volt stuff as a Kit, must be somemone out there interested. Not sure what price to put on them though. Am always amazed at the 24v kit prices - I would want to get rid soon as ! But guess some always want it 'standard ' 😕 Q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin50 Posted November 20, 2021 Author Share Posted November 20, 2021 Well after having nighmares about this engine Not starting after buying it unseen, finally got it set up for 12 volt and it does run, just rigged up to battery and solenoid to test. not sure if Water pump or Alternator is working, is there a way to test them ? Now I dont have a clue what sounds good or bad, so whats peoples opinions of this / Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted November 20, 2021 Share Posted November 20, 2021 Sounds fine to me ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Def Harry Posted November 20, 2021 Share Posted November 20, 2021 (edited) Haven't heard mine running in years, but that sounds alright to me! Edited November 20, 2021 by Def Harry typo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 21, 2021 Share Posted November 21, 2021 Yep, all good, perhaps timing a bit retarded or accelerator pump not working as its a bit sluggish to rev up. Test the alternator by sticking a multimeter across the battery, anything over 13V and it is trying to charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted November 21, 2021 Share Posted November 21, 2021 It seems you are unaware of the reported danger, to the alternator, of running it while not connected to an electrical load? (I cannot see any wiring on the back of the alternator). The hesitation on throttle opening may be influenced by running without the correct air cleaner in place. Regards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin50 Posted November 21, 2021 Author Share Posted November 21, 2021 (edited) 5 hours ago, David Sparkes said: It seems you are unaware of the reported danger, to the alternator, of running it while not connected to an electrical load? (I cannot see any wiring on the back of the alternator). The hesitation on throttle opening may be influenced by running without the correct air cleaner in place. Regards. Yes Was not sure about that, the Alt is not wired to anything yet, just a rolling chassis at he moment. should I just take belt off for now ? or is there a way to wire it as it is now ? Thanks Edited November 21, 2021 by kevin50 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted November 21, 2021 Share Posted November 21, 2021 If you take the belt off the water pump will not rotate, so I wouldn't recommend that. To wire it up you will need a vehicle battery, the alternator uses the battery voltage as a reference voltage. Without this reference the alternator could run up to 16 or more volts, damaging itself. Battery positive to the alternator output terminal(s). Battery negative to the alternator case (given all the blue paint I'd suggest this connection be clamped between the alternator case and one of the mounting brackets). IND terminal via a 2.2W lamp to battery positive. You can insert a switch in this lead, (switch on before running the engine) or just disconnect the lead when you aren't running the engine. Without a switch the IND light will glow all the time the engine isn't running. The current flowing through the illuminated lamp is the 'exciting' current for the magnetic field generated by the rotor. Without this current the magnetic field will be low, meaning little alternator output, BUT there will be some residual magnetic field in the rotor, spin it fast enough and the alternator will self excite, creating the abnormally high voltage. Regards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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