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Fitting a Fairey Capstan Winch


GeorgetheLandy

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Hello all, 

Does anyone know how to lock the flywheel that is attached to the starter motor so I can unbolt the dog clutch and replace with a new clutch so I can connect my capstan winch?

Every time I try to unbolt it the pulley keeps spinning.  Have tried putting it in gear and locking the axle but to no luck…Anyone?

thanks

Gary

P.S. the last picture is not my Landy but an example of what I need to replace the existing dog clutch with

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So just a little more information:  I’m trying to removed the dog clutch from the pulley on the engine crank shaft.  When I attempt to undo the nut the engine turns and I cannot get purchase on the nut and loosen it.  I don’t have an impact driver and even if I did I’m not sure I’d get one in there.  It’s a 42 mum nut and I simply am looking for advice on how to safely lick the shaft.  Please see pictures of the dog clutch I need to remove.

any advice welcome thanks

G

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1 hour ago, Stellaghost said:

Put the landrover in low box 1st gear and chock the wheels, that should stop the engine turning, if that doesn't do it a 3/4" impact gun should be able to loosen it regards Stephen

Thanks, will try again at the weekend.  I have tried numerous things and the bloody thing does not want to budge.

I have bent back the lock washer on the nut , not the pulley.  I have soaked in penetrating oil for over a day now.  I cleaned and blow torched then tried.  Even tried the engine impact method of removing the coil lead and wedging a spanner on the nut, then starting it.  Nothing is budging this bugger.  May just admit defeat and take it to a garage and see if they can get an impact driver in the space.

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Lock the flywheel. Should be an inspection plate forward the top on the housing. Or a drain hole at 6 o'clock. 

Failing that, remove the starter and wedge something in.

Buy a big battery impact wrench and socket.

 

Done.

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Put your socket on a bar long enough to engage with the chassis rails, work out which way to push the vehicle to turn in a loosening direction in 2nd or 3rd gear, then with the ignition OFF give it a shove on that direction and the momentum of the vehicle should give he required power to break the torque of the nut against the chassis rail.

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There is another way to get it off but it can be a bit risky.

First you need a good ring spanner which fits well, from memory its a whitworth size but not sure which (1"??), the thread is quite fine for the size as well.

You don't say if it is petrol or diesel, if petrol disconnect the coil, if diesel ensure the fuel solenoid is disconnected or shut, in short make sure the engine won't actually start!, turn the starter a few times to make sure it turns but doesn't actually start.

Fit the spanner on the starter dog and turn it so it is resting against the chassis leg (you may want to add a piece of wood), exactly how it fits depends on the length of the spanner, then flick the starter motor over, it should knock the dog loose. If it doesn't work you can get increasingly violent by giving the spanner a bit of a running start before it hits the chassis.

The down sides is if the spanner flicks off it is going to go somewhere very fast.....closing the bonnet is probable a good idea, also if your chassis isn't great it could get a lot worse quickly. The consequences if the engine actually fires up could also be pretty bad as well.

I have done this successfully but if anyone else wants to do it just make sure you realise the potential risks and be careful !!.

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No-one seems to have recalled the fact that a Series is designed to allow the use of a starting handle. This means that there is a direct path from the crankshaft nut to outside the front of the chassis.

I didn't feel particularly 'clever' at the time, but from an Army Surplus store I bought a very obviously 'pre-used' 3/4 drive socket, that had enough internal space to go over the starting dog, a 3/4 straight extension, and a 3/4 'flex handle'.

I can now operate on the nut without space restriction.

Regards.

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Well after two days of soaking in penetrating oil and setting the gear to 3rd, the use of a ‘kin large 42mm ring spanner, some colourful choice words uttered frequently (which Inthink may have either offended or educated our neighbours) and a lot of bloody knuckles and elbow grease the bigger came off.

Thanks to all for the multiple streams of advice, here is a summary of what worked for me:

1. Spray liberally for two days with penetrating oil.

2. Let it soak longer than you think and it says on the can.

3. After soaking for two days, heat with a blow torch for 5-10 minutes and then immediately hit the side of the nut on the dog clutch three or four times.

4. Put the car in 3rd gear.

5. Using a 42mm ring spanner crank in a anti-clockwise direction until loose.  
 

half of the battle was knowing which direction but got there in the end.  This was for my 1964 Land Rover Series IIA 109 Petrol Engine.

Thank you all so much, I’m sure an impact driver would have been better but I could not seem to find one that would fit the space given my winch was installed and I did not have a large 10 inch 3/4 extension socket.

Off for a beer now.

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23 hours ago, David Sparkes said:

No-one seems to have recalled the fact that a Series is designed to allow the use of a starting handle. This means that there is a direct path from the crankshaft nut to outside the front of the chassis.

I didn't feel particularly 'clever' at the time, but from an Army Surplus store I bought a very obviously 'pre-used' 3/4 drive socket, that had enough internal space to go over the starting dog, a 3/4 straight extension, and a 3/4 'flex handle'.

I can now operate on the nut without space restriction.

Regards.

I honestly didn't think the crank handle hole would fit a 3/4'' drive, but that aside, this is a good plan.

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