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Intermittent cutting out Defender 200Tdi


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Hello

Defender 200 tdi - blue smoke when increasing the revs then loss of power to then eventually cutting out. 

The problem was initially intermittent and only happened 2 or 3 times but today, every time I started and drove up the road and increased the revs the engine would then slowly die with occasional plumes of light blue smoke when increasing the revs to get it started again at the side of the road. 

 I recently changed the fuel filter and replaced the fuel lift pump as it was leaking fuel. Could this be related as this problems started around this time? 

I’ve read on other threads about blue smoke none of which I have seen resulted in engine cutting out. 

any thoughts would be great . Thanks

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  • western changed the title to Intermittent cutting out Defender 200Tdi

Welcome to the forum, I have a few questions to see if there are any further clues:

(1)Does it start okay from cold?

(1)Then when it cuts out, will it happily start again or is it reluctant?

(3)Does the smoke smell oily? 

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Welcome to LRx4 , you're in the right place

Fuel supply is most likely . 

With it ticking over safely parked try releasing the bleed screw on the top of the diesel filter . There should be constant flow of diesel , if not then it will be a pump issue.

If you still have the old one re-fitting it would prove the point.

Steve

 

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Collapsed intercooler hose. The increase in revs causes the turbo to spin up, which creates suction on the intake side. I'm betting one of your hoses on the intercooler has lost it's structure and is closing up with this extra suction, blocking off the air supply to the engine.

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Hello

thanks for responding

yes starts fine every time. Then loses power until it conks out completely. When restarting I can see in the rear view mirror occasional blasts of blue smoke when increasing the revs. I’m not totally sure if the blue smoke is related to the loss of power. it does seem like it could be fuel starvation which leads me back to the possibility of being the pump or diesel filter. 
I’ll check out the responses and try to isolate the problem down.
video attached. 
Thanks again
 

 

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Given it starts fine, I think the intercooler hoses are a very likely culprit as suggested above. I would imagine fuel starvation to result in difficult starting.

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Would a failed lift pump cause the engine to cut out under no load though? I've not got the mechanical lift pump fitted on my 200Tdi (I have an electric pump), I have been happily driving round near where I live on one occasion only to discover I hadn't had the electric pump working properly. My engine didn't cut out, it just a bit sluggish.

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I had very similar when I had a duff lift pump as well as a stack of water in the fuel filter, starts and tocks over fine, but any kind of revs and it dies out. - considering you've just changed some items in the fuel system I'd be going back to those items first.

Also as echo'd above these engine will often run without a lift pump - so I'd be thinking blocked or not properly bled filter or faulty lift pump thats not allowing fuel to the FIP.

Did the new lift pump come in a ablue box? - you can try dissconect the fuel inlet to the FIP pump )pop of the fuel solenoid connection) then turn the engine over get a jar and see if the lift pump is pumping fuel to the FIP.

I'd rule out the fuel issue first then I'd go looking for hose colapses...

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23 hours ago, Bowie69 said:

Is it potentially the spacer/no spacer thing for the fuel pump?

This is a very important point.  The lift pumps were made to two different specifications, with different distances between their mating face and the arm pivot.  It’s possible that the difference was for use on different engines, with differing mounting distance from the cam shaft (the change over from 200 to 300 Tdi would be my bet, as the block, side mounting panel and pumps were broadly the same from the 2.25 petrol all the way through to the end of the 200Tdi).

If the slim faced pump is used directly onto the wrong engine, then the arm will be moved too far on each stroke by the cam shaft, ultimately rupturing the diaphragm.  There is a spacer available to correct the geometry and give the correct stroke.  Unfortunately, suppliers don’t seem to know about this and give no details when ordering parts, so you can’t easily tell which type of pump you have or whether you need the spacer.

I suspect you have ruptured the diaphragm on the new pump because of this, so while still functional, it is also sucking in air as the rpm increases and air locking the injection pump, recovering at lower rpm where the fuel flow is suffering less resistance and allowing a fuller draw with less air.

I think it is also worth removing the air hoses for inspection.  Those blue puffs could be oil getting drawn in under vacuum as a hose collapses or could just be from hoses and an intercooler in dire need of a flush.

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