Mossberg Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 Hints and tips required on how to protect the wiring loom when welding the chassis. I need to replace the right hand (drivers side) bulkhead outrigger and I notice the wiring loom enters just before the area I need to weld. This will need welds (x4) the full depth of the chassis and also along the top and bottom, so quite a bit of heat going into it. So how do you guys protect the loom from this amount of heat? Thanks in advance for your help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 It's a good question. I thought I had it hooked out of the way with some welding wire when replacing a rear cross member, and it turned out it was too close and got well frizzled. Personally I think running it through the chassis is daft, especially if it's galved as there can be sharp spikes of zinc in there. So I think I'd be tempted to pull it out altogether, if you want to put it back pull a piece of old cable or similar through as you pull it out, so you can get it back in easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 Mine is on the outside now due to a chassis swap. As above or cut your hole to replace a wrap some plumber heat mat around the loom but you'll probably end up leaving it in there. Mike 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted July 5, 2022 Share Posted July 5, 2022 Its a lot of hassle, but personally, I would disconnect it at the rear and pull it out. Tie a draw wire to it first, so you can re install it. Its a whole lot more hassle, not to mention expensive, if you burn it ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted July 5, 2022 Author Share Posted July 5, 2022 I really didn't want to pull the loom, but certainly don't want to burn it! I will have to look at what I need to do. So, any tips on pulling the loom through? Do people recommend putting it back into the chassis or taking a different route - again, advice and tips welcome!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted July 6, 2022 Share Posted July 6, 2022 Pull it across to the engine side of the rail before cutting, once cut you could holes the side of the chassis (may already be a hole?) and use a piece of mig wire to hold it there. if you wet it down and don't go daft with the welder it will be fine, also possible to spray the hose in there once you have welded or halfway through. I have never pulled them for outriggers, and can't remember having any problems. Edit: I pulled the loom through a new chassis using a piece of 6mm plastic air pipe but it took a few attempts and that was without a body and a second person. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted July 6, 2022 Author Share Posted July 6, 2022 Thanks Muddy. I have a fear of upsetting anything electrical- whilst I am no mechanic, electricery is like another dimension! I will try to look more carefully at it before I make a decision, but I am currently changing my front axle case. I was going to do the outrigger with the axle off, but I prefer to have the extra stability of wheels on the ground! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 Leave the radius arm off it will make life much easier. Also depending on how rotten the old outrigger is you can always cut and shut old and new to make the join in more weldable friendly place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted July 7, 2022 Author Share Posted July 7, 2022 Thanks Muddy. The reason I decided to do the axle was because I took the radius arm off to do the first outrigger. I have just taken the shock turrets off and cleaned the spring mounts. I used the wire brush in the grinder to do most of the cleaning then on with some phosphoric acid to neutralise the rust - it was quite pleased with the results. Now painted with red oxide and tomorrow I will fit the galv shock turrets, then on with the new refurbed axle case. I will leave the second radius arm off and do the other outrigger then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 7, 2022 Share Posted July 7, 2022 Apply some black paint over the red oxide, it will do a better job of protecting the metal with more than 1 coat of paint. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted July 7, 2022 Author Share Posted July 7, 2022 Will do. I will also treat it with Lanoguard or such afterwards. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted July 8, 2022 Share Posted July 8, 2022 17 hours ago, western said: Apply some black paint over the red oxide, it will do a better job of protecting the metal with more than 1 coat of paint. I recall reading somewhere (on the internet so it must be right) that you need at least 3 coats of air drying paint to ensure any pinholes formed during drying don't align. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mossberg Posted July 8, 2022 Author Share Posted July 8, 2022 9 minutes ago, cackshifter said: I recall reading somewhere (on the internet so it must be right) that you need at least 3 coats of air drying paint to ensure any pinholes formed during drying don't align. Well it's had 1 coat red oxide and 1 coat black. Also had Lanoguard grease brushed on. Hopefully if the stars align it may reduce corrosion for a bit - though I won't hold my breath 😉 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted July 9, 2022 Share Posted July 9, 2022 I guess the Lanoguard will seal the surface anyway, at least for quite a while 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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