Rear door hinges

[L19MUD]

My rear door hinges have so much wear in them the rear door rattles and squeaks which is driving me nuts. there are lots of options now at a huge range of prices. Does anyone have any experience or suggestions? I don't mind spending a bit more to get something that looks decent and will last but don't want to pay over the odds either.

Standard steel - Will need painting and have the potential to rust plus are not a great design/that strong. 

Stainless version of the standard ones. Removes the rust issue but not sure how they will look on a white 90. £246 https://yrmit.co.uk/product/stainless-steel-safari-rear-door-hinges-lr-defender-series/

Black billet Aluminium Exmoor trim - £336 https://www.exmoortrim.co.uk/cnc-hinge-full-rear-door-set-black.html

Black billet aluminium Optimil - £260 https://www.optimill-uk.com/rear-door-hinges-set-of-3.html

Black billet aluminium Defender upgrades. These have grease nipples - £250 https://defenderupgrades.co.uk/product/land-rover-defender-rear-door-hinges-aluminium/

[Paul C]

I went for the later model steel ones for my rebuild, they are cleaner looking than the old model ones.

[hurbie]

or just replace the bolt and brass ball , en for 6,24 pounds youre done 🙂 

https://www.masai4x4.com/Rear-Door-Hinge-Pin-Kit-for-Defender-&-Series-Stainless-Steel-p134573548

[steve b]

New standard ones and get them plated or galvanised . The old ones lasted a good while after all?

Steve

[L19MUD]

1 hour ago, hurbie said:

or just replace the bolt and brass ball , en for 6,24 pounds youre done 🙂 

https://www.masai4x4.com/Rear-Door-Hinge-Pin-Kit-for-Defender-&-Series-Stainless-Steel-p134573548

They are also rusty which is creating rust stains down the bodywork

 

Edited to say...it may be the pins which are rusty which this would actually also solve....hmmm

[L19MUD]

42 minutes ago, steve b said:

New standard ones and get them plated or galvanised . The old ones lasted a good while after all?

Steve

But Steve, where is the Bling in that 🙂

 

Someone must sell galvanised ones....

[landroversforever]

Not sure if you've seen this thread I started: 

 

I went with the optimill ones in the end so there weren't any exposed bolts. I'm now leaning that way for the front hinges too now that ATE machining don't exist  

Edited to add, I've not fitted them yet but the quality of the optimill stuff is fantastic.

 

 

[steve b]

1 hour ago, L19MUD said:

But Steve, where is the Bling in that 🙂

 

Someone must sell galvanised ones....

The Britpart side door hinges are zinc plated, not sure if the rear door hinges are though.

....local platers in Thetford , Wyatt Chrome 01842766770. Small company and very helpful.....mmm Chrome??

Of course you would need spinners and 20's then.

Steve

[L19MUD]

2 hours ago, hurbie said:

or just replace the bolt and brass ball , en for 6,24 pounds youre done 🙂 

https://www.masai4x4.com/Rear-Door-Hinge-Pin-Kit-for-Defender-&-Series-Stainless-Steel-p134573548

I have bought this kit. Even if it is just a temporary measure as it will be easy to do without taking any of the interior trim off to get to the nuts at the back of the hinges.

I stupidly fixed the rattle on the front door cards so now I can hear the back door rattling even worse. Annoyingly adjusting the latch so it actually locks has not improved it at all

[L19MUD]

58 minutes ago, landroversforever said:

Not sure if you've seen this thread I started: 

 

I went with the optimill ones in the end so there weren't any exposed bolts. I'm now leaning that way for the front hinges too now that ATE machining don't exist  

Edited to add, I've not fitted them yet but the quality of the optimill stuff is fantastic.

 

 

They do look good and the non exposed bolts help with that. My question is how can you undo them from the outside in any case? The nuts on the rear door are not captive so would just spin if you were lucky enough to get the bolt to turn in the first place

 

Totally get it on the front doors though with the captive nuts in the bulkhead

[Junglie]

3 hours ago, L19MUD said:

My rear door hinges have so much wear in them the rear door rattles and squeaks which is driving me nuts....

Your Landy is a hell of a lot quieter than mine if you can hear the doors rattle...

[L19MUD]

1 minute ago, Junglie said:

Your Landy is a hell of a lot quieter than mine if you can hear the doors rattle...

I can only hear it at lower speeds after which the transfer box whine/tyre noise/engine take over in that order

At lower speeds the sound deadening I installed made a huge difference to outside noises, so now I just hear different ones! 

[landroversforever]

39 minutes ago, L19MUD said:

They do look good and the non exposed bolts help with that. My question is how can you undo them from the outside in any case? The nuts on the rear door are not captive so would just spin if you were lucky enough to get the bolt to turn in the first place

 

Totally get it on the front doors though with the captive nuts in the bulkhead

It means you can't just drill the heads off.

[L19MUD]

1 minute ago, landroversforever said:

It means you can't just drill the heads off.

Fair point but if you are going to that level you could just cut the hinge in half with a cordless grinder in a shorter time

[Snagger]

I would just go for the new ball and pin kits.  They shouldn’t make any rust if you grease them during assembly.

Be wary of the rattle.  If refurbishing the hinges doesn’t cure it, be a little more suspicious.  My wife’s 2009 90 had what sounded like a rear door rattle at lower speeds, especially on the overrun.  It transpired to be the rear diff - the cross pin was held into the carrier with a roll pin at 90 degrees through one of the ends, and this sheared allowing the cross pin to slide all the way to the inside circumference of the ring gear.  The rattling sound was actually the cross pin hitting the head of the pinion gear.  It chipped the edges of the cross pin and left witness marks on the end of the pinion, visible with a bit of effort through the oil filler hole. I replaced the roll pin a few times but it kept shearing, so I suspect the cross pin bore in the carrier was slight ovalised.

[Michal]

There is a guy in Slovakia who makes nice aluminium ones for decent price. I have got them all around and so far they are good.

https://www.prometal-company.sk/d/aluminium-rear-door-hinges-1000126/