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One for Mr Ashcroft or other gearbox gurus


FridgeFreezer

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I have a 1.003:1 LT230 and a cross drilled input gear that came from something else (I dunno what, a mate "found it" at his works (ahem) :rolleyes: but it fits into my "spare" 1.222:1 LT230.

2007-01-30_17.jpg

How do I make this work then? Even removing the spacer under the bearing race left me with about 2-3mm to take up :( are there different gears available or am I destined to have a non-cross-drilled one? The rear covers are the same so I guess the actual LT230 casing is different, which is a PITFA because the 1.003 gearset runs on a thicker centre shaft which has a bigger hole in the casing and is IMHO a nicer design:

(New design top, old design bottom)

2007-01-30_18.jpg

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If the tooth count and gear profile is the same then you could machine the bearing shoulders back on the wider gear to make it fit.

I'm nt sure it is true, but I tend to agree with you that the parallell roller bearing type appears to be a nicer design as every transfer case of that type that I have ever pulled apart has been in brilliant condition, and I have seen the odd bent intermediate shaft on the later tapered roller versions.

Bill.

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Hi,

the LT230 suffix A and B have the thin (27mm wide) 26 tooth input gear,

suffix C onwards use a wider (32mm) gear,

unfortunatly the difference is not just the gear width but also the tooth pressure angle, ie you can't fit the wider cross drilled gear.

One thing you can do is to fit an oil feed plate to stop the spline wearing.

the longer length of the gear indicates it comes from a suffix G LT230 either a late 300 or a TD5 defender,

the 1.003 you have is the LT230 R ( R = Roller bearing on intermeadiate pin), suffix A,

from suffix B onwards it was called the LT230 T , T means Taper roller bearings on the intermeadiate pin,

Dave

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Fridge, drill your own holes, I have the same TC and thats what i did. If you have the machinery DIY, but you need a special drill bit, i took mine to an engineering firm who drilled 3 holes on a milling machine in 5 min for a minimal fee.

Grem

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Cheers guys - since the splines on the current one are a bit pants I'll have to get a new gear and an oil feed plate, right now that's down the list of things to spend money on though :rolleyes:

Out of interest Dave, could you not cross-drill the early type gears? I realise from the factory they're not drilled but surely you have the technology? ;) I'd buy one :P

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time to hijack...

what do you make of this. its an early 2.5n/a defender transfer. 1.4 (scrap?)

HPIM0095.jpg

i also have a "spare" 1.2 disco transfer but it came with out a input gear. do i just need the stamped number for the correct type to be identified?

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Cheers guys - since the splines on the current one are a bit pants I'll have to get a new gear and an oil feed plate, right now that's down the list of things to spend money on though :rolleyes:

Out of interest Dave, could you not cross-drill the early type gears? I realise from the factory they're not drilled but surely you have the technology? ;) I'd buy one :P

I have been told that you can drill your own gear. Use a masonary bit.

Well I've not tried this so I can't comment.

mike FOAK

Knickers

I can cause trouble in an empty house !!!

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Guest diesel_jim
I have been told that you can drill your own gear. Use a masonary bit.

Well I've not tried this so I can't comment.

mike FOAK

Knickers

I can cause trouble in an empty house !!!

Hammer action or just normal? :D:D:D

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Hi guys.

I'm interested in this cross-drilling malarkey myself as my transfer box is an old 12A, which is pretty goosed and will need some attention before to long.

One thing I'd like to know however is in the picture it looks as though the older input gear is is norrower across the shaft than the later one, is this the case or does it just look like it in the photo?

If it does have less meat on it will drilling it weaken it?

If its just a case of drilling it, why is this not currently being offered in rebuilds?

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Although Tungsten Carbide works, its not an elegant solution ……… much better to use a colbalt drill (£££), together with a cutting lubricant.

We're all about elegance here - what size hammer do I hit it with for optimum elegance? :rtfm:

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  • 2 months later...

Just an update - got the new i/p gear and oil feed plate but you can't fit the plate if you want to use the PTO / overdrive (no mention of this on Ashcrofts website, tut tut :P )

So I think I will see if the local machine shop will drill it for me as I have no drill press here, nor decent drill bits.

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