DefcoL Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 (edited) Hi, some of you may know me from 4x4Goods that i used to run, it has been many years since i posted. why now? well I have a landrover 110 with salsbury axle. I would like to install disk brakes to the rear. Are there bolt on kits to do this and if so, do you have a link for me? Alternative, I still have my disco 1 tray back that ibuilt in 2007. it has an uprated 300tdi (149bhp fitted by gigglepin) this is fitted with an ashcroft stage 1 auto box and the transfer/B goes to axles with ARB fornt and rear the front is fitted with ashcroft hardened shafts and cv's. The trayback has stood since 2015 for personal reasons that mean i will never use it again. Question is should i swop the drive train or parts of it to the defender? there might be too many issues for that. ? So I am wondering what advantage would swopping just the axles for better brakes/strenght, as am fed up with constant rear brake part need. I dont think swopping the enging and box would aid me as i will only use the 110 on road except when accessing good locations for my photography hobby. (I may do the scottish 500 in it) Your thought/advice/suggestions all welcome as retired with time to read. thank you all Lawrence Horne. Edited January 28 by DefcoL to show photo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C Posted January 28 Share Posted January 28 I am about to swap disc's onto my drum Salisbury but I am using all the old parts from my disc Salisbury that I upgraded. I used Ashcroft shafts and LOF brakes so replaced the hubs and stubs as well to give me the spares for upgrading the drum axle. All the parts are available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuko Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 Lawrence, As you wrote the 110 is primarily used for road, so in my opinion I can't see why you can't use the trayback rear axle. The later years LR did change to Rover type rear axle on the 110. Your axle with the upgrades should be well up to the job. There is a post in this section of the rear axle swap I did on my 110, but I used a Salisbury axle that was disc brake. With that said, I did and still have in reserve a disco 300tdi rear axle with a locker if I decide to go further with the 110. Todd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 4 hours ago, tuko said: Lawrence, As you wrote the 110 is primarily used for road, so in my opinion I can't see why you can't use the trayback rear axle. The later years LR did change to Rover type rear axle on the 110. Your axle with the upgrades should be well up to the job. There is a post in this section of the rear axle swap I did on my 110, but I used a Salisbury axle that was disc brake. With that said, I did and still have in reserve a disco 300tdi rear axle with a locker if I decide to go further with the 110. Todd. Quite whether the authorities would notice I don't know, but technically the normal rover rear isn't rated for the rear of a 110. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 You can keep the existing Salisbury, including stub axles and half shafts, if you use the hubs from a 200Tdi or earlier Defender, 90 or 110. The 300Tdi/TD5 rear calliper brackets will fit the axle without making any brackets or new bolt holes. Aligning the 110 rear callipers with the discs may involve shimming or skimming the calliper brackets but should pose little problem. I did find the inner hub nut didn’t wind down far enough onto the outboard hub bearing initially, but using the thick washer that I think came from a Discovery rear axle, it worked perfectly. You will need to change the master cylinder to suit the callipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 The proper way to do it is to swap the stub axles and hubs for the later 300Tdi type, and then the standard caliper brackets, calipers and discs will all just bolt on. You can reuse the old halfshafts, but they don’t have the stub axle seal land and so your wheel bearings will run in axle oil and not grease. Some say this is the better setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefcoL Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 31 minutes ago, Snagger said: You can keep the existing Salisbury, including stub axles and half shafts, if you use the hubs from a 200Tdi or earlier Defender, 90 or 110. The 300Tdi/TD5 rear calliper brackets will fit the axle without making any brackets or new bolt holes. Aligning the 110 rear callipers with the discs may involve shimming or skimming the calliper brackets but should pose little problem. I did find the inner hub nut didn’t wind down far enough onto the outboard hub bearing initially, but using the thick washer that I think came from a Discovery rear axle, it worked perfectly. You will need to change the master cylinder to suit the callipers. Hi and thanks for reply. will the disco master cylinder and chamber fit or is a rear disked defender one that is the preferable choice? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefcoL Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 6 hours ago, tuko said: As you wrote the 110 is primarily used for road, so in my opinion I can't see why you can't use the trayback rear axle............................. Hi and thanks for reply, I have information that that a longer propshaft will be required, are they available? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefcoL Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 15 minutes ago, Retroanaconda said: The proper way to do it is to swap the stub axles and hubs for the later 300Tdi type, and then the standard caliper brackets, calipers and discs will all just bolt on. You can reuse the old halfshafts, but they don’t have the stub axle seal land and so your wheel bearings will run in axle oil and not grease. Some say this is the better setup. Thanks for reply. the rear drums are the main issue for me, looking for simple fix. 19 hours ago, Paul C said: I am about to swap disc's onto my drum Salisbury but I am using all the old parts from my disc Salisbury that I upgraded. I used Ashcroft shafts and LOF brakes so replaced the hubs and stubs as well to give me the spares for upgrading the drum axle. All the parts are available. Very nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefcoL Posted January 29 Author Share Posted January 29 Hi and thanks for reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hurbie Posted January 29 Share Posted January 29 5 hours ago, DefcoL said: Thanks for reply. the rear drums are the main issue for me, looking for simple fix the simple fix is : fix the rear brake's .... they last forever when repaired propperly ....(and a lot less work then fitting disc's ...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 18 hours ago, DefcoL said: Hi and thanks for reply. will the disco master cylinder and chamber fit or is a rear disked defender one that is the preferable choice? I’m not sure. The cylinder itself is similar, though some have different numbers of ports. You can alway blank any unneeded ports. The reservoir is inclined on the Discovery cylinder as the servo bolted to an inclined bulkhead plate, and the flange to bolt to the servo may be different. I really wouldn’t want to guess at compatibility with the Defmder servo and pedal box. As mentioned above, the ideal way would be to spend a little more and use 300Tdi shafts, stubs and hubs, converting the axle spec to the later design rather than a hybrid. I prefer the wet bearings and shaft splines of the old type and I also think the wider spacing of the bearings in the thicker hubs helps reduce loads on them from tangential forces, but the 300 design fared well regardless. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted January 31 Share Posted January 31 Disco master and servo can be made to fit but essentially they don't. There's no need to change the master it works fine you just may have a little more travel. I did mine with 200 hubs and 300 calipers/brackets. Depending on what disc you use you may need caliper spacers as mentioned. There is a list of parts I used buried in my ibex thread but it may take some finding. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefcoL Posted January 31 Author Share Posted January 31 On 1/29/2024 at 8:43 PM, hurbie said: the simple fix is : fix the rear brake's .... they last forever when repaired propperly ....(and a lot less work then fitting disc's ...) Very true Hurbie. The issue is when stood (and it does for extended periods) the expander corrodes and binds the pistons. one reason why the xeng handbrake was fitted to the disco was fault free use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted February 1 Share Posted February 1 On 1/31/2024 at 12:05 PM, DefcoL said: Very true Hurbie. The issue is when stood (and it does for extended periods) the expander corrodes and binds the pistons. one reason why the xeng handbrake was fitted to the disco was fault free use. You just need a judicious application of the appropriate grease. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DefcoL Posted February 6 Author Share Posted February 6 On 2/1/2024 at 8:59 AM, Snagger said: judicious I like the terminology.... Yes, I somewhat rather doubt, that there will be a hung jury on this point Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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