Hazza Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 Not sure what the solution will be for you, the brazing that I noticed tended to be around where the latch mechanism is mounted and above it where the inner horizontal waist piece meets the frame. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 A quick google says zinc melts at 420degC, Bronze 950 Brass ~900, so would that be OK being dipped? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stinkfloyd Posted April 25 Author Share Posted April 25 8 hours ago, FridgeFreezer said: A quick google says zinc melts at 420degC, Bronze 950 Brass ~900, so would that be OK being dipped? I think with a couple well placed plug welds as an insurance policy, I should be grand! đ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted April 25 Share Posted April 25 It may melt at 420C, but I bet you the tank is hotter than that for dipping. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 On 4/24/2024 at 2:45 PM, Hazza said: Having just welded up my rear door frames, I can confirm that there are a couple of brazed joints in there, they make for quite unpleasant welding. As a (very) inexperienced welder who is about to have to do door frames, please can you explain what the brazed joints did to make it unpleasant? So I know what's gonna bite my bum... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stellaghost Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 1 hour ago, Junglie said: As a (very) inexperienced welder who is about to have to do door frames, please can you explain what the brazed joints did to make it unpleasant? So I know what's gonna bite my bum... If your using mig or arc welding the brass will melt and spit at you, also the metal in the rods or wire will not adhere to the brass, which is why you can blank holes with brass or copper and then back fill with mig or arc as it won't stick to the brass or copper You could tig braze your doors that way your filler rod would adhere to the brass or stop welding as close to the brass joints as you can then fill any remaining gap with a map torch / oxy acetylene and a brazing rod Hope this helps regards Stephen 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 18 minutes ago, Stellaghost said: If your using mig or arc welding the brass will melt and spit at you, also the metal in the rods or wire will not adhere to the brass, which is why you can blank holes with brass or copper and then back fill with mig or arc as it won't stick to the brass or copper You could tig braze your doors that way your filler rod would adhere to the brass or stop welding as close to the brass joints as you can then fill any remaining gap with a map torch / oxy acetylene and a brazing rod Hope this helps regards Stephen That helps a lot - very interesting, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 26 Share Posted April 26 5 hours ago, Junglie said: As a (very) inexperienced welder who is about to have to do door frames, please can you explain what the brazed joints did to make it unpleasant? So I know what's gonna bite my bum... As Stephen said, the different metals wonât fuse. Â I used this to my benefit with that crappy, misjigged Marsland 109 chassis years ago - the dumbiron spring hanger holes were 3/4â different heights from each other, so a friend used a block of brass inside the hanger to act as a backing blocker to fill the bolt holes smoothly with mig welding so that we could redrill the holes to match the other dumbiron. Â It gave a flat weld surface inside the hanger, so we only had to grind the outside faces flat before drilling. Â Worked a treat. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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