Retroanaconda Posted April 21 Share Posted April 21 Thread tidied and off-topic posts removed. 80W90 will be fine for the transfer box - it will do the job just as well as ‘proper’ single grade EP90. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stinkfloyd Posted April 21 Author Share Posted April 21 (edited) So... gearbox is in, transfer box refitted but I can't say the job is "complete" as the exhaust bolts snapped and had nothing in my stash.. so a hanging exhaust and still on the ramp but it should be off the ramp tomorrow. 😁 Other than a breather hole having paint in the threads, it fitted up well and quality looks good. Edited April 21 by Stinkfloyd 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stinkfloyd Posted April 23 Author Share Posted April 23 (edited) And for those who haven't lost interest in the thread already.. it now has 5 forward gears and 1 reverse. It made putting it back into the unit a lot easier last night! Although bitter sweet fitting a box knowing it will be taken out of there again without really turning a wheel. In other news, the chassis is rotten! Rear crossmember is rotten, outriggers rotten, gearbox crossmember rotten, chassis where gearbox crossmember is located rotten both sides.. Now, for someone with no other option, the chassis could be saved with a lot of time but only for the next patches to need done in a year or two. Thankfully my intention from the start was to fit a galvanised chassis! So, I have a few things to sell in the meantime (my motorbike, an old hilman imp project, disco 1 front and rear axle and some modular wheels for a series to name a few things) then chassis will be purchased. I have also decided to go down the galvanised bulkhead route. The bulkhead currently on it is fairly solid but does need some welding. So I will likely weld it up and sell it. But I'm going for a new galvanised bulkhead because, ultimately, this will be a vehicle I intend to be driving in 20 years time. So i would rather do all the work now rather than in 5-10 years. Especially since I'm getting it sprayed at the end of this! Edited April 23 by Stinkfloyd 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stinkfloyd Posted April 23 Author Share Posted April 23 (edited) In the meantime I'm tempted to start the restoration with the doors, as all the doors require refurbishment. The rear doors were replaced with doors from a fire damaged defender. Thankfully the frames are straight but the skins are very warped, so both rear doors need new skins. Both front doors need welding on the lower frame so I will likely just purchase repair sections and weld them in. I will also be replacing these door skins due to dents and a bit of corrosion on the bottom of the plates. So since I'm taking the skins off 4 of the doors, I've decided I'll be as well doing the same with the rear door and sending all the door frames off for galvanising once any repairs have been carried out. Then new door skins all round. Not cheap I will get 5 "new" doors for the price of 1 door with a galvanised frame. Watch this space 😁 Edited April 23 by Stinkfloyd 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 10 hours ago, Stinkfloyd said: In other news, the chassis is rotten! Rear crossmember is rotten, outriggers rotten, gearbox crossmember rotten, chassis where gearbox crossmember is located rotten both sides.. Now, for someone with no other option, the chassis could be saved with a lot of time but only for the next patches to need done in a year or two. Thankfully my intention from the start was to fit a galvanised chassis! It was a serious consideration for me, but happily it looks as though mine only has a porous rear crossmember, which is a relatively easy fix - I might even get away with just plating it. though that's unlikely given everything else that has happened with this truck... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 10 hours ago, Stinkfloyd said: I have also decided to go down the galvanised bulkhead route. The bulkhead currently on it is fairly solid but does need some welding. So I will likely weld it up and sell it. But I'm going for a new galvanised bulkhead because, ultimately, this will be a vehicle I intend to be driving in 20 years time. So i would rather do all the work now rather than in 5-10 years. Especially since I'm getting it sprayed at the end of this! I did this - SP4x4 looked like my best option but I will be updating here when it arrives. They have already sent through the brackets and so on that I ordered at the same time and that looks decent quality (key point for me is that there are no razor-like edges to screw you up when you're reaching in and trying to do stuff up blind). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 10 hours ago, Stinkfloyd said: So, I have a few things to sell in the meantime (my motorbike, an old hilman imp project, disco 1 front and rear axle and some modular wheels for a series to name a few things) then chassis will be purchased. Is that a Minitwins SV650 in the background? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 10 hours ago, Stinkfloyd said: ... sending all the door frames off for galvanising once any repairs have been carried out. What does the collective wisdom of the forum think of cold galvanising for things like this? May be a sensible and lower cost compromise for things that aren't directly in the firing line? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stinkfloyd Posted April 24 Author Share Posted April 24 49 minutes ago, Junglie said: What does the collective wisdom of the forum think of cold galvanising for things like this? May be a sensible and lower cost compromise for things that aren't directly in the firing line? Yeah that is a fair point. A cold galv was a real option for me but i will explain my thinking on this a bit. The company near me that does galvanising charges for galvanising by the ton. Given that land rover parts are generally fairly light weight, you should get a lot for your money for the ton. So my galvanising list would likely be as follows: Door frames Rear tub cappings Roof rack (re-glav and dome of the coating has sacrificed itself over its 20 odd years). Front bumper Rock sliders Bonnet frame With the potential to also galvanise: Axles casings The repaired bulkhead I also have a couple non land rover bits and pieces for galvanising. Now, I am very aware that some of that would be considered. unnecessary and some of it is overkill. But all that will still be less than a tonne in weight and I'm going to be getting bits and pieces done anyway. I know it probably seems illogical. But I have the money to do it now and plan on having the defender for many many years and what is in the bank today is no guarantee of what will be in the bank tomorrow. So I'm opting for the overkill option while I have the funds with the intention of never putting another door, bumper or rock slider on it again! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sigi_H Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 If you have a Salisury axle add the pan. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 24 minutes ago, Stinkfloyd said: I know it probably seems illogical. But I have the money to do it now and plan on having the defender for many many years and what is in the bank today is no guarantee of what will be in the bank tomorrow. So I'm opting for the overkill option while I have the funds with the intention of never putting another door, bumper or rock slider on it again! Perfectly logical - if you're paying for a minimum of a tonne anyway then you'd be daft not to! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 My concern over galvanising the door frames would be distortion, but if they can allow them to warm up more gradually by having them suspended a little above the zinc surface, and do the same for a more gentle cool-down,then distortion might be minimised. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 I want to say there are some brazed joints in the door frames from memory... I could be talking rubbish however. @Junglie They'll show a per ton etc price, but the minimum order price/quantity will be less than that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bishbosh Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 Cold galvanizing isn't really galvanizing. It is just a zinc rich paint which if you use a good one will help but don't think you'll get anything like the protection and longevity of hot dipped galv. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 I’d look at having them hot zinc sprayed and giving the insides a generous dose of high quality wax. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 10 minutes ago, bishbosh said: Cold galvanizing isn't really galvanizing. It is just a zinc rich paint which if you use a good one will help but don't think you'll get anything like the protection and longevity of hot dipped galv. You won't get the same bond at the steel/zinc interaction point like you do with hot-dip. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junglie Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 23 minutes ago, landroversforever said: You won't get the same bond at the steel/zinc interaction point like you do with hot-dip. True, I get that. But the door frames aren't quite in the firing line like, say, chassis rails and bulkheads... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 I've tried DIY nickel & zinc electroplating and that seems to work quite nicely, considering sourcing a 200L drum or old bathtub to do some larger pieces if I ever get around to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hazza Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 2 hours ago, landroversforever said: I want to say there are some brazed joints in the door frames from memory... I could be talking rubbish however. @Junglie Having just welded up my rear door frames, I can confirm that there are a couple of brazed joints in there, they make for quite unpleasant welding. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stinkfloyd Posted April 24 Author Share Posted April 24 3 hours ago, Sigi_H said: If you have a Salisury axle add the pan. I have a Sailsbury axle with a brand new pan waiting to go on it 😁 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stinkfloyd Posted April 24 Author Share Posted April 24 3 hours ago, Junglie said: Perfectly logical - if you're paying for a minimum of a tonne anyway then you'd be daft not to! Exactly my thought process... or at least how I justified it to the Mrs 🤣 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted April 24 Share Posted April 24 1 minute ago, Stinkfloyd said: I have a Sailsbury axle with a brand new pan waiting to go on it 😁 Is the new pan galv? if not, get it in the order! One note about galv stuff..... they often want it blasted before hand unless its somewhere that specifically mentions that they blast first themselves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stinkfloyd Posted April 24 Author Share Posted April 24 3 hours ago, Snagger said: My concern over galvanising the door frames would be distortion, but if they can allow them to warm up more gradually by having them suspended a little above the zinc surface, and do the same for a more gentle cool-down,then distortion might be minimised. They would likely distort but unlike bigger items should be able to be fettled back into shape with some light tapping... but they'll be used to galving smaller items hopefully and I'll mention distortion to them when I arrive Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stinkfloyd Posted April 24 Author Share Posted April 24 2 minutes ago, landroversforever said: Is the new pan galv? if not, get it in the order! One note about galv stuff..... they often want it blasted before hand unless its somewhere that specifically mentions that they blast first themselves. Yeah it'll be on the list! I didn't know about the planting though but there is a boy near me that does blasting for decent cost so I will check first and pay him a visit if needs be.. thanks for the heads up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stinkfloyd Posted April 24 Author Share Posted April 24 37 minutes ago, Hazza said: Having just welded up my rear door frames, I can confirm that there are a couple of brazed joints in there, they make for quite unpleasant welding. Hmm.. now that is a very important bit of info! I wonder how to get round that? Maybe some strategically placed plug welds? The galvanised frames online seem to be galvanised after manufacture so they must be fully welded. So maybe worth a review with a blow torch to see what is welded and what is brazed prior to them going away.. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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