** MegaSquirting a V8 - "Basics of How to" ... The A-Z Saga

[lansalot]

Jeepers fella - it's right there in google under "megasquirt manual"

[stuck]

Pah!

Instruction manuals, what ever next!

[FridgeFreezer]

To be honest, I'd say most people are better off just following this thread rather than trying to read the MegaManual as it is written for everyone - in other words, EVERY type of car, engine, setup etc. and so is more likely to bamboozle people with options they don't need to worry about.

[steve_d]

To be honest, I'd say most people are better off just following this thread rather than trying to read the MegaManual as it is written for everyone - in other words, EVERY type of car, engine, setup etc. and so is more likely to bamboozle people with options they don't need to worry about.

John, When you have 5 minutes to spare how about writing the LR4x4 MS1 V3 029V MS SnE EDIS8 instruction manual.

This thread is getting so big by the time you get to the end you forget what you were looking for as well as loosing the will to live.

Steve

PS Why aren't you talking to me any more?

[FridgeFreezer]

5 minutes? Erm, OK, sure

Me not talking? Have you tried to talk to me by some means recently? I know my PM inbox is full and I haven't had time to check it out / sort it out / reply to everyone but there are so many ways people can pester me I often find I miss an inbox for some time (eg facebook, forum, e-mail, team website...) and then have a pile of neglected messages in it.

[steve_d]

....Me not talking?

Sorry, not been trying to get you. It was sort of pre-empting your response to me suggesting you write the manual. Bit like 'I'll get my coat'

Steve

[stuck]

It runs!

Even better I dont have clouds of black smoke poring out of the exhaust!

Thanks for the help chaps!

[bobtail84]

This evening about 19.15 o'clock ish after nearly 3 day's work another V8 has been Mega Squirted. To say the owner of the 90, an oil burner but he saw the light and gently placed a 3.9 auto from a R/R in it's place, was chuffed was and under statement.

One more of us...

One less of them...

jeff

[woodytz]

Nice one Mr Tail ,, Vive le Mega Squirt

[evo828]

After installing MS and EDIS - can I completelly remove distributor from the engine and just plugin the hole with something? On some versions it was somehow connected with oil pump - I do not know how to determine If mine needs the distributor to be there or not (1998 with serpentine belt). Any hints?

[steve_d]

If it has serpentine belts then yes you can bin the dizzy and turn up a nice bung to go in its place.

Steve

[evo828]

Thank you Steve !

[tarmacshredder]

Hi All,

I have spent yet another morning on my Landy trying to get it to run properly, it is now 12 months since I started megasquirting it and to be fair I wish I had never started, I have spent days and days trying and although it now doesn't smoke terribly it will run sometimes and then a few mins later not at all, I have yet to get to the stage of being able to drive and tune it.

I like many started off with direct coil drive, and this is all disconnected now with the old distributor connected just trying to run fuel (this was done to just try and get it going again so I could move it and use it), I still do not seam to be making any progress. From cold it will normally start by giving it some throttle, it will not idle until it starts to get warmer. As it warms i do get a lambda volt reading, as it gets to around 80deg f the lambda reading starts to go down until I loose it. I have upped the fuel table cells to try to get a lambda reading back but no success. When warm it is a bugger to restart.

On switch off even though I have fitted the resistor on the alternator wire I still get ticking which is in time with the D14 led in the ecu flashing.

I am running bosch Sensors which dont look that far out on the laptop, water temp looks good, air temp is a bit low, I have tried to redo the air temp sensor readings with megatherm but I cannot get the new s19file to load into the megasquirt ecu.

Is there anyone local to me, stratford upon avon that can come and have a look and see what I am doing wrong? I will pay someone to help if they have the knowledge to fix it.

Many thanks

Glenn

[Aragorn]

Assuming the lambda heater is working, 0v means very lean?

[tarmacshredder]

Thanks for the reply Aragorn,

As the engine warms and gets to 70deg F the lambda sensor voltage comes up from 0 volts to the middle of the guage then as the temp rises further the volts come down to 0. I have increased the cells in the fuel table by as much as 5 that the engine is bouncing around but haven't managed to get the lambda reading back up off the 0volts. I am in fear of damaging something if it is running that lean, I have 2 lambda sensors and have swopped to the other but no better. The AFR Guage is hard round to the right at 28.

My fuel table starts in the left bottom corner going up with 35,35,34,36,40,42 next colum (1000rpm)going up 35,35,35,38,44,47 next column (1500rpm) 35,35,36,45,48 does this look right for a 4.6v8? when cranking it is in the cells 85,90,95kPa and in the 600rpm column the values for these cells respectively are 62,65,68.

I would love to change to deg C but I cannot workout how to do that so anyone that can tell me that would be appreciated.

Glenn

[steve_d]

The table is relative so first question is what 'Required Fuel' setting are you running and what engine is it.

If the required fuel figure is wrong the whole table will also be wrong.

Steve

[Aragorn]

Another point...

The lambdas are they original 4.6 units or new Zinconia sensors?

4.6 used titania sensors that act differently to the zirconia ones.

Not sure which squirt prefers, but either way it will need configured for the correct sensor.

[tarmacshredder]

The lambda sensors are from a 3.5l discovery and plug straight into the 3.9 loom behind the cylinder heads, the vehicle they came off was pre cat.

I have looked at the required fuel table and have done a screen print.

This is my fuel table

many thanks

Glenn

[FridgeFreezer]

Surely this has been done to death by now - LR use Titania sensors which MegaSquirt cannot directly use without modification. Unplug them, ignore them, set EGO corrections to zero, and for the time being just tune it the same way you would a carbed motor - by feel. Chances are you've got it waaaay too rich. There is a decent base fuel-only map for a 3.5/3.9 in this thread somewhere so download that and give it a try.

Also, it's worth remembering that lambda sensors (even when you have the correct type fitted) are only reporting the oxygen levels in the exhaust gas and can be confused by things like misfires, oil leaks, acid vapour from silicone sealant (a-la the Tesco contaminated fuel scandal), and massive over-fuelling (if you drench the thing it will be "blinded" and report back 0v).

Also unless you have downloaded an S19 from somewhere else you do not need to prat about with Easytherm. Blow the standard s19 file that is listed in this thread into the ECU and run with the standard Rover water temp sensor and either the AT1010 or RS 151-215 air temp sensor and it will be right. Maybe not laser accurate but no automotive sensors really are.

[tarmacshredder]

Surely this has been done to death by now - LR use Titania sensors

Sorry John I have not read this anywhere in the 33pages, and I have reread this evening.

My understanding was that you were not able to use the sensors off the 4.6 Range Rover which are different.

BBC said in his post number 54 "Range Rover sensors are Titania Element" but didnt mention the Land Rover sensors which I have used from a Discovery.

To confuse me even further in your post number 256 you said that when converting a 4.2 LSE to megasquirt

"LSE lump will probably have the boss in the exhaust and maybe even a sensor or two already"

Does the 4.2 not use the same sensor as fitted to the disco using the same ecu?

[FridgeFreezer]

Fair enough, I'm sure I've answered the question about 50 times but then I get a lot of PM's about MS

So, I'll add it to the thread for posterity: No you can't use Land Rover lambda sensors (definitely nothing from the Flapper/Hotwire years, dunno about later models), you want universal 3 or 4 wire types available from about £20 at motor factors or from just about any car in the scrapyard.

Also you only need one in the system and can blank the other hole off (bungs are available) or move the boss downstream of the Y piece. MS can use one per bank and tune per-bank but frankly that's one for the real anoraks.

[zoltan]

Have you guys running Megasquirt built your ECU's from scratch or gone readybuilt?

I know the Omex 600/700 series inside out but for a personal project it is double plus the cost and limited to one map. Its advantage is not learning curve although a familiarity with EMS scores for the megasquirt too I'm sure.

I want to run two ignition maps, one for petrol and one for LPG. I have emulators for the injectors with the LPG kit but is there any way to switch between ignition maps without flashing a new map to the ECU? My other option is run Mega jolt for the LPG and keep the megasquirt intact for petrol. Two independent systems has a certain appeal, I just wondered how fiddly/intricate soldering the boards is. I'm tempted to get the mega jolt kit and have a try first

[evo828]

I had my MSII built by extraefi.co.uk and I do not regret it. You can specify inputs as you need map switching, MSII Extra firmware supports also the Idle Stepper Valve if you need it. More expensive than self-build - but no soldering and no debugging of the board itself.

[FridgeFreezer]

First off, a lot of what you ask is answered in the MegaManual / MSEFI forums / MSExtra, etc. and in this very thread (there's even a MegaThread index courtesy of Mr Morfee.

I have built knocking on for 50 units now, many for forumers. I'd say the MJ is a bit fiddlier due to surface mount components, if you haven't soldered anything before I'd advise starting with a £10 Maplins project kit before trying to build an ECU - you don't want poor assembly bringing your car to a halt.

There's a discussion of table switching here, yes it's entirely possible on the move by design.

MegaSquirt will do everything MegaJolt does as well as controlling the injectors, it can do both, or one or the other, quite happily. If you're likely to want fuel control as well as ignition you may as well go for MS straight off.

[zoltan]

First off, a lot of what you ask is answered in the MegaManual / MSEFI forums / MSExtra, etc. and in this very thread (there's even a MegaThread index courtesy of Mr Morfee.

I have built knocking on for 50 units now, many for forumers. I'd say the MJ is a bit fiddlier due to surface mount components, if you haven't soldered anything before I'd advise starting with a £10 Maplins project kit before trying to build an ECU - you don't want poor assembly bringing your car to a halt.

There's a discussion of table switching here, yes it's entirely possible on the move by design.

MegaSquirt will do everything MegaJolt does as well as controlling the injectors, it can do both, or one or the other, quite happily. If you're likely to want fuel control as well as ignition you may as well go for MS straight off.

Thanks, I have dutifully been reading this thread and have reached page 13, or was it 16? Sounds as if a ready built but custom spec MS is my best option. I've no burning desire to drip solder over myself and I have got my work cut out on the rest of my project so ready built with the table switching would be my choice. Let me know if you want to make that 51 kits!