landrover598 Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 Been trying to find the vid, sure it was on Youtube but can't There are a couple on you tube that make you realise how dangerous it can be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted August 3, 2007 Share Posted August 3, 2007 The shackle on the link shown then in the picture has writing cast into the shackle, this will say Balh balh SWL 4.75T or somethuing similar - these then are "Tested". Non Tested ones have nothing on the, sometimes shackles have it stamped into the surface, both are fine, I have never ever had a certificate with any of the tested shackles I have boughtI am however unsure of the SS bolty on bit I am not saying that its no good, I am saying I don't know, didn't think SS was a strong as decent steel ?...and I have a personal dislike of the swivelly recovery points that in effect have only the One Bolt , I have seen 2 "Part copmpany" under load, but they had been horribly abused and had slop where they went into the bumpers. Also folks should bear in mind most if not all shackles are rated for lifting at say 5x or 7x safety factor. But overkill is always good I'm not convinced about the swivelly bolty on things either, stainless or otherwise. As I see it, if the swivel is in the wrong position or jams with the shackle pin horizontal and then gets a sharp tug from say 45 degrees off to one side, there is going to be a hell of a sideways twisting motion applied to the shackle pin (and the swivel), which it won't be designed to cope with. I'm not sure what the outcome would be but I wouldn't be one volunteering to stand too close and watch better to have something solidly attached to the vehicle IMHO. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazelle Posted August 4, 2007 Share Posted August 4, 2007 The shackle on the link shown then in the picture has writing cast into the shackle, this will say Balh balh SWL 4.75T or somethuing similar - these then are "Tested". Just looked....found it....reassured...Just what I wanted....Thank you..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blippie Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 Haven't any test certificates for my green & red pin rated shackles either. I didn't get one with my green shackle, pictured here .... More seriously, I found what Kim Horsevad had to say on maths very interesting... When using a bridle please remember that the angle between the "legs" of the bridle should be 60 degrees in order to halve the load on each of the attachment points. When the angle gets greater than 60 degrees the load on each of the attachment points will grow. At 120 degrees the load on each of the attachment points will equal the load on the connecting point on the birdle. At greater angles the load on each of the attachment points will be greater than the load on the connecting point on the birdle. I can't quite get the angle in my head. Are these being measured from the chassis or from the bumper? And what is the length of rope/strop requited to produce the optimum 60 degrees? Cheers Blippie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 I can't quite get the angle in my head. Are these being measured from the chassis or from the bumper? And what is the length of rope/strop requited to produce the optimum 60 degrees?Cheers Blippie It's the angle where the bridle connects to the recovery rope. Long bridle = acute angle. Short bridle = obtuse angle. Time to do some maths to figure out the bridle length Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 Time to do some maths to figure out the bridle length ok, some dodgy maths: My jate rings are about 63cm apart. Let's half that to make a right angle triangle, from one jate, to the vehicle centre line and out to out to the recovery point on the bridle. Were looking for 1/2 the bridle length, which is the hypotenuse. So: Sin 30 = op/hyp 0.5 = 31.5/x x = 63cm so the bridle length is twice that, 1.26m (Edited to add: ok, so that's twice the jate distance, I know there's an easier way I could have calculated that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 clever boy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gromit Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 clever boy nope, overcomplicated boy. For 60 degrees, it's an equilateral triangle, so the bridle length will always be twice the distance between the jate rings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landybear Posted August 7, 2007 Author Share Posted August 7, 2007 Have been watching this thread seeing as i started it and it has gone crazy. I ask a simple question and end up with Pythagoras theorum. Good work though Gromit!! So double the JATE distance is the ideal strop/bridle length - magic!! Received the JATES today and have the fronts on just need to tighten them up. I have some for the rear aswell. How tight do the Nylocks need to be - FT setting!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 IMHO the longer the better (within reason) is the ideal bridle length because the smaller the angle the better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted August 7, 2007 Share Posted August 7, 2007 Have been watching this thread seeing as i started it and it has gone crazy. I ask a simple question and end up with Pythagoras theorum. Good work though Gromit!! So double the JATE distance is the ideal strop/bridle length - magic!! Received the JATES today and have the fronts on just need to tighten them up. I have some for the rear aswell. How tight do the Nylocks need to be - FT setting!! Done mine so the jate ring can move when I put my boot on it & shove hard. when you couple a shackle to it make sure the shackle pin head [the bit you hold to do it up] is facing down then it can't dig in to the lower face of the chassis rail & damage it, do the shackle up then back off 1/2 a turn, to stop it grabbing, otherwise it makes them a right pain in the butt to undo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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