Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 12, 2007 Share Posted November 12, 2007 The genuine rotor arms will have Lucas stamped on the top of them. Replace BOTH IMHO as non genuine caps can damge genuine rotor arms You will ONLY Get Genuine from a Main delaer and INSIST its genuine Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 bet ye canny guess where i'm going at the weekend then B) Blooming work needs to get in the way of my progress LOL Cheers guys DC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 12, 2007 Author Share Posted November 12, 2007 This one?? and this.........??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 18, 2007 Author Share Posted November 18, 2007 UPDATE: Got the genuine cap fitted yesterday but far too wet to chance a break down and a test drive. The rotor arm is due in monday or tuesday so i will get that on and see if it makes it even better. Took it today for a test drive with better results. Last time i got 2 miles if i was lucky before slowing down at a junction and it cut out. Today, got to the same junction and all seemed fine. Made it a few more miles and all was good. Stopped off at my dad's for a cuppa, then headed to the petrol staation as you do. Second junction i had to wait about 15-20 secs and it cut out. Started up straight away and went to the station without any trouble. Put my £30 in and headed off for more testing. Done a few miles more no prob without really stopping. Then at lights i had to stop for again around 20 secs, put it in neutral as it seems to idle better out of gear, then as i put it into gear and tried to move it cut out. Started again and off we went. So it seems that it's really only when i am stopped with foot on brake. Another thing i noticed is that it runs on too fast, After running at around 2000rpm, it settles down then if i drive it and pop it back into neutral it revs up again to around the 2000rpm or even slightly more. So if anyone can think of the problem that it may be i would be glad to hear. It's defo feeling better than it did so the new cap and CTS seems to have improved things. DC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 20, 2007 Author Share Posted November 20, 2007 I have a pipe that i think needs looking at but unsure of it's job.Here's a wee pic of it. It has a T connection in the middle but someone has tried to do a repair, not a good one by the look of it. The red is the pipes and the cicle is where the repair has been done. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 That's your engine breather..... the T joint sounds right, but if it is leaking it will cause poor running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 20, 2007 Author Share Posted November 20, 2007 Sounds like this could be a factor then . Just put on GENUINE dizzy cap at weekend there, and now today i have just fitted GENUINE rotor arm. So the T joint has been patched up with what looks like plastic paper and grease. Srange................i'll get it sorted ASAP. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 For testing purposes you could just disconnect it, and block the two pipes on the plenum.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 20, 2007 Author Share Posted November 20, 2007 you mean remove the pipe (whole pipe) and block off the 2 hoses that enter the plenum? What about the other side with the cap type thing on it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 The pipe is the engine breather & the grey tower on the o/s rocker cover has wire mesh inside as a filter. Usually clog up with oily cr8p. Remove (unscrews)wash out in petrol & allow to dry. Do NOT dry with high pressure air. Where the other end of it enters the plenum it turns 90deg to the o/s then 90deg to the rear, then into the plenum near the butterfly. Frequently blocks up solid with cr8p (which causes the crankcase to pressurise & oil to leak out of all sorts of places) which can sometimes be cleared with carb cleaner or similar. To do this remove the trap to plenum pipe, remove the pipe from the AFM to the plenum, prop the butterfly open, push a clean lintfree cloth into the plenum to catch the stuff that flushes out & spray. On mine the passageways were blocked solid & I had to pull out the metal pipe the breather pipe goes onto (interference fit) & use a twistdrill between my fingers to clear the blockage before flushing. If you have an air leak on this pipe then that can upset the idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted November 20, 2007 Share Posted November 20, 2007 Yes, the Tee Piece indicated is part of the breather system……………any air leak in this area will cause very rough running The Tee piece has a restrictor built into it on the Plenum feed side ………….. the part number of the Tee piece is ETC6374. The pipe that goes from the restrictor to the plenum is specially shaped to avoid oil staying in and blocking the pipe …….part number ERC9218 The you have the pipe from the flame trap to the restrictor …….ETC 6370 Then the pipe from the restrictor Tee to the throttle body …….ETC6371 Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 20, 2007 Author Share Posted November 20, 2007 Thanks Ian, will look those up and see if i can afford them just now, fingers crossed they are not too expensive.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 20, 2007 Author Share Posted November 20, 2007 Can't find those parts on my web sites that supply parts Ian, can you give me a link? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 I also see you have a flashback arrestor on the entry to the plenum. Looks like the same sort as I have on mine. You would be well advised to run a bead of sealant - or RTV instant gasket - around the outside of the joint as it will almost certainly be letting air in which will also upset the idle. Same goes for the gas ring joins. Any airleaks which occur after the airflow meter are bad news. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 Careful with the sealant, make sure it's proper instant gasket as silicone gives off acidic fumes which kill lambda sensors. Ask me how I know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 Careful with the sealant, make sure it's proper instant gasket as silicone gives off acidic fumes which kill lambda sensors. Ask me how I know Better still use a big O-ring either from LR or get them from VWP, same on filler neck ext on other rocker cover Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 21, 2007 Author Share Posted November 21, 2007 I also see you have a flashback arrestor on the entry to the plenum. Looks like the same sort as I have on mine. You would be well advised to run a bead of sealant - or RTV instant gasket - around the outside of the joint as it will almost certainly be letting air in which will also upset the idle. Same goes for the gas ring joins. Any airleaks which occur after the airflow meter are bad news. Ok need to go back to basics, flashback arrestor? RTV instant gasket...................gas ring joint..................... Help LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 Ok need to go back to basics, flashback arrestor? RTV instant gasket...................gas ring joint.....................Help LOL Flame trap = Big grey tube thingy screwed into Rockery cover thingy on Driver side front (facing RR ) near front RTV = Special Sealant for joints - used on 4x4s etc squishes out everywhere and makes a F dreadfull mess if you use too much gas ring joint = lighting ciggys with illegal substances from gas cooker ring Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 Flashback arrester (aka backfire valve) is the ally thing with the orange elastic band round it on the plenum. It has a flap inside it which shuts if a backfire occurs & pressure should be vented through holes which are covered by the band. The 'gas ring' is the ally thing next to it that the LPG pipe goes to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 21, 2007 Author Share Posted November 21, 2007 Thanks guys for the "idiot" talk through, makes more sense now..............i hope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 And theirs me thinking the flashback arrestor meant flame trap "you say tomatoe and I'll say tomaato......." Nurse medication time please nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 21, 2007 Author Share Posted November 21, 2007 So is the pic wrong then? LOL.................... Awww ma heed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted November 21, 2007 Share Posted November 21, 2007 The grey thing you have labelled as flame trap is referred to in the LR manual as 'Engine flametrap - fuel injection models'. The flashback arestor (backfire valve) is correctly indicated. Look to the left of your arrow & the join betwen that & the plenum is where to run sealant. So you are on the right track! (Just think how much embarassment a factory manual could save you ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DC_ Posted November 21, 2007 Author Share Posted November 21, 2007 (Just think how much embarassment a factory manual could save you ) Thanks for the info although i don't really get your last comment. I am not embarassed to be learning about things i can rectify through places like this. I find this more informative than sitting scrolling through a book,with no one to confirm if i am doing the correct thing. Ask 10 people and i will get 10 different answers all of which may help solve my problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paintman Posted November 22, 2007 Share Posted November 22, 2007 Ah yes, but the manual has pictures of the parts and their names. Could save you a lot of time waiting for someone to look at a pic on the web! Although we all need help from time to time so please don't think I'm having a go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.