JST Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Am i right in thinking the setup if different to the older vehicles, and that you just fit them in the std way and then use one stake nut done up to a set torque and thats it? (using a new Stake nut), ie no backing off/redo etc? Are the stake nuts front and rear the same? anyone have a stake nut MPN? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smo Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Yes they are the same back and front. I do believe it is recommended to do them up, give it all a wiggle and a twirl then torque up to recommeded level - however, dont ask LR dealers what this should be cos so far ive had 3 different answers, 2 from the same garage! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Junk the stoopid nut, fit two nuts off a 300TDi and the lock washer, then adjust it normally. Not done this myself, but I understand this is common pactice? Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 Les - those were my thoughts, so 300tdi nuts are the same stub thread? SMO - 210Nm i heard that anywhere near what you have picked up on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smo Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 210 seems to match one of the quoted figures Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Td5 RAVE workshop info says 210Nm or 150lbft Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Junk the stoopid nut, fit two nuts off a 300TDi and the lock washer, then adjust it normally.Not done this myself, but I understand this is common pactice? Les. Yes that is the best idea, convert to the old system, the threads are the same so all you need is the 2 old type locknuts and the 2 old type washers one with the tit on to go behind the inner nut and one to hammer over the two nuts once tight. The Td5 bearings in factory form have a selectable spacer between the two bearings, you choose the right one to get the bearing play correct, fit it between the bearings and then wind the stake nut on the outside up VVVFT and hammer the stakey bit (tech term) over. Don't - as somebody I know once did - put the bearings on without the spacer, then wind the stake nut up to 210nm because the wheel don't turn too well and the bearings get a bit hot Messing around finding the correct spacer (there are about ten different sizes) is a PITA and the old system is much better anyway and its also quicker to set up the bearings and can be adjusted anywhere unlike the new system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted December 13, 2007 Author Share Posted December 13, 2007 so remove Stake nut and the spacer currently fitted and replace with two nuts, lock washer and spacer washer then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted December 13, 2007 Share Posted December 13, 2007 Let me know how you get on James, I will plan to do the same mod to mine. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 I had it done to my old 90 when I had problems with 1 bearing and it is as straightforward as it sounds - old ones off, new ones on, tighten, job done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted December 14, 2007 Author Share Posted December 14, 2007 so do i need the spacers and washers with the tongue or the flat section, the latter i believe? anyone got a MPN for them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 nuts x 2 per hub - FRC8700 lock washer - 217353 [the circular hole with small tab ] or for 110's FTC3179 [the D shaped hole] or for 90's depending on axle serial number 217353 to axle 22S 08283B or FRC8002 from axle serial number 22S08284B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted December 14, 2007 Author Share Posted December 14, 2007 cheers ralph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted December 14, 2007 Share Posted December 14, 2007 Got 2 here if you can't find any locally Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted December 28, 2007 Author Share Posted December 28, 2007 Tony - do you still have those nuts handy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 Nuts No, thick metal disc(spacer) that goes behind the nuts Yes. 4x4 store would post some if you are quick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveSIIA Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 It's worth checking that the current nut is still torqued correctly before you run round looking for new parts. I had play in one set of wheel bearings on my old Td5. Took the nut off the stub and re-torqued it to 210Nm and all play eliminated - just needed a new nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted December 28, 2007 Author Share Posted December 28, 2007 got some now thank you Tony, 4x4 were closed, Anton to the rescue will fit them tomorrow and check for continuance of noise!!! prob change the bearings as well me thinks. What Nm do you do that first nut upto? then back off and upto What? 40/10? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted December 28, 2007 Share Posted December 28, 2007 45fl/lb then 5 ft/lbs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted December 29, 2007 Author Share Posted December 29, 2007 Cheers Tony, did them today, bearings are now nicely sorted with the later 300tdi arrangement rather than the td5 stake nut style. still got that bloody noise though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted January 24, 2008 Author Share Posted January 24, 2008 In the quest to solve the squeak in the vehicle over Christmas i changed the f/n/s bearings from the td5 style back to the older style. photo shows top row what comes out, less bearings and race from the left - Stake Nut, large thick washer, (then should be a bearing) then spacer (shown) then 2nd bearing. bottom shows what you need to replace with (MPN as in posts previous to this one.) Gasket, outer nut, lock tab washer, inner nut, thick washer (in bag), bearing (in box)etc. (working left to right, wheel to diff) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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