LR90 Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 As per title really. I want to tap a couple of holes in the windscreen frame to remout the snorkel. Best I can tell in the dark the bolts are M6x1.5 (10mm heads and currently into rivnuts). Found a tap but need to know what size to drill the hole out first? Metric and imperial equivs might be good as I may not have much to choose from. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibexman Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 As per title really. I want to tap a couple of holes in the windscreen frame to remout the snorkel. Best I can tell in the dark the bolts are M6x1.5 (10mm heads and currently into rivnuts).Found a tap but need to know what size to drill the hole out first? Metric and imperial equivs might be good as I may not have much to choose from. Thanks. 5mm bit for 6mm bolt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minivin Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 M6 x 1.5mm? M6 course is 1mm pitch (5mm dia tapping drill (Zeus guide)) Lets see <checks site on net> M6 fine I have as 0.75mm pitch, metric special doesn't cover M6 from what I can find, however lets see what there is as 1/4 x 17 TPI.... nope you got me beat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 M6 x 1 is a 5mm tapping hole. a quicj google search will give you loads of sites with tapping drill size charts... try here for example Tap & Die company - I have also bought from them and tey are very helpful. Not cheap, but very helpful!!! Cheers Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 there were no replies here when I started that!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted November 19, 2005 Author Share Posted November 19, 2005 Best I can tell in the dark the bolts are M6x1.5 So I could well be wrong Maybe its M6 x 1 but whatever it seems to mesh ok with the tap I have. Don't think its fine. So is there a metric equiv for 5mm. Could I use 3/16 and give it a bit of a wiggle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MogLite Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 So is there a metric equiv for 5mm. Could I use 3/16 and give it a bit of a wiggle? Metric for 5mm - try 5.0mm or 0.5cm You telling me you don't own a 5mm drill !! If the thickness to be tapped wasn't too thick, I'd just lube up the tap well after the 3/16 drill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gsr341 Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 as a rule of thumb on metric course ( the common size) if you take the pitch away from the tap size M6,M8 etc it gives you your tapping drill size , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted November 19, 2005 Author Share Posted November 19, 2005 Thanks everyone Given I've now opened a bottle of wine and started cooking I think this will have to wait for another day which gives me time to get the right drill bit. Moglite, I'm a series/imperial man at heart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 Yeah, I love wine when I cook, sometimes I even use some of it Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 Given I've now opened a bottle of wine 15mm and file the hole a bit then 5.5mm drill bit is needed, you might get away with a cheapo 5mm drill bit, but the peaks of the thread will be fractured. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve H Posted November 19, 2005 Share Posted November 19, 2005 Trev, If you're really into imperial then my drilling tapping guide lists 13/64" alongside the preferred drill size of 5.1mm with 5mm as an alternative size. This is for 6mm ISO coarse 1mm pitch . No listing for any other 6mm pitch so uncommon. Be aware that 1/4 inch UNC is fairly close, listed as 20 TPI which is about 1.2mm pitch & has a recommended drill size of 5.2mm or 13/64". Time to invest in a Metric/Imperial thread guage set. Even decent quality ones are not v expensive, I've had a Mitutoyo set for yonks, with that & a drilling tapping chart that you should be able to pick up for next to SFA from any engineers supplies the whole thing is totally demystified. HTH, Cheers, Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted November 19, 2005 Author Share Posted November 19, 2005 Trev, If you're really into imperial then my drilling tapping guide lists 13/64" alongside the preferred drill size of 5.1mm with 5mm as an alternative size. This is for 6mm ISO coarse 1mm pitch . No listing for any other 6mm pitch so uncommon. Be aware that 1/4 inch UNC is fairly close, listed as 20 TPI which is about 1.2mm pitch & has a recommended drill size of 5.2mm or 13/64". Time to invest in a Metric/Imperial thread guage set. Even decent quality ones are not v expensive, I've had a Mitutoyo set for yonks, with that & a drilling tapping chart that you should be able to pick up for next to SFA from any engineers supplies the whole thing is totally demystified. HTH, Cheers, Steve. Cheers Steve. I've got a metric thread cage (with the taps/dies) but it was a bit dark to read it. I might have a 13/64 but if not I guess its time to go buy some metric drills. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted November 20, 2005 Author Share Posted November 20, 2005 Well got out there this morning and managed with a 3/16" Snorkel now nicely attached though the screen frame is beginning to look like swiss cheese with all the holes in it. Manged not to fall of the frost covered bonnet too so that's a bonus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niall_CSK Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 it was a bit dark to read it. Wasn't too dark to read the wine label then What thread was the corkscrew Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted November 21, 2005 Author Share Posted November 21, 2005 Wasn't too dark to read the wine label then What thread was the corkscrew Never too dark for that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 Perhaps a bit too late, but "don't attach your snorkel like that". I could show you several windscreen frames that attest to the same thing... Mr Snorkel meets Mr Tree and then Mr Autoglass gets a phonecall... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted November 21, 2005 Author Share Posted November 21, 2005 Perhaps a bit too late, but "don't attach your snorkel like that". I could show you several windscreen frames that attest to the same thing... Mr Snorkel meets Mr Tree and then Mr Autoglass gets a phonecall... Mr Snorkel has met Mr Tree on several occasions and worse (well that was the old one, now replaced by a Southdown unit). But.... how tell me a better way to do it. Always happy to learn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted November 21, 2005 Share Posted November 21, 2005 (edited) You either need a roll bar sitting farther out than the snorkel or the snorkel needs to sit closer in than the body. Wider tyres really help keep the trees away. I would have lost a snorkel on this one. Edited November 21, 2005 by Red90 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LR90 Posted November 21, 2005 Author Share Posted November 21, 2005 Ah, no roll bar and with the old snorkel I did this when I had to winch it out while it was still resting on its side with motor running to provide lights and battery power. Worse still the mud got sucked into the air filter and I later ended up having to replace the engine. More recently on the Slindon event we even took it off at one point to avoid it being torn off by the trees. At least now the Southdown is inboard of the panels and screen edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 But.... how tell me a better way to do it. Always happy to learn Well, I've mounted mine inboard of the cage but I've seen sensible solutions bridging from the wing/bulkhead straight up to the gutter. Otherwise, use really tiny bolts made of cheese so they break first. Obviously you don't want it to drop off on the road, so use strong cheese, like Stilton. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Niall_CSK Posted November 22, 2005 Share Posted November 22, 2005 Otherwise, use really tiny bolts made of cheese so they break first. Obviously you don't want it to drop off on the road, so use strong cheese, like Stilton. That's a good idea don't worry I am not about to suggest Scottish mature (for older people) or anything like that but it reminded me of a guy who used to have his Rangie wings secured by plastic number plate bolts. You can get them in packs from either Beals or most decent motor factors, they will be easy to drill out if they get broken, won't rust and they are black what more can I say Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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