Filling bolt holes in rear tub...

[Darren]

I've just removed two forward facing seats from the rear of my 110 station wagon. It also looks like it's had bench seats fitted before that, too and all these ex-seats have left a large number of holes in the wheel boxes. These are currently covered with duct tape (what else? ) but I wondered if anybody had any good ideas for a more permanent, and elegant, solution?

I don't want to just put bolts through as I want to keep the top surface flush (for rubber matting, eventually). The only other thing I can think of is to glue some small bits of ali to the underside? Possibly with silicon?

[FridgeFreezer]

Plastic trim fixings will give you an almost-flush surface, or large-headed rivets with a rivet-washer underneath depending on the size of the hole.

Either raid the scrapyard for the plastic fixings or look here.

[Darren]

Hmm, I've got a load of large headed rivets to hand so they might do. That Skiffy site has all sorts of useful looking stuff on it, though

[nas90]

Hmm, I've got a load of large headed rivets to hand so they might do. That Skiffy site has all sorts of useful looking stuff on it, though

I get my lasers to cut disks about twice the diameter of the hole and stick then on with a 2 part flexible adhesive

http://www.eurobond-adhesives.co.uk/productlist.php#sa

Penloc 1:1 brilliant but expensive

Always use aluminium disks so that no potential difference between materials if no access to a laser then a pair of tinsnips

[jonost24]

Halfrauds do a range of plastic bungs. I think they're by the electrical bits. If your hole is too small drill out to a size where the plastic bung will be a tight fit. Once in, they do sit pretty flush.

[Darren]

I get my lasers to cut disks about twice the diameter of the hole and stick then on with a 2 part flexible adhesive

http://www.eurobond-adhesives.co.uk/productlist.php#sa

Penloc 1:1 brilliant but expensive

Always use aluminium disks so that no potential difference between materials if no access to a laser then a pair of tinsnips

You've got your own lasers? I'm impressed Seriously though, I do quite like this approach, although it's obviously more fiddly than just pushing a plastic bung or fastner in. Is there any particular reason for the exotic adhesive or would something like Araldite or silicon do the job?

[LR90]

Low tech is evostick and tinfoil (worked a treat on the 109 roof)

[Mo Murphy]

Or silicone sealer and bits of beer can.

HTH

Mo

[LandyManLuke]

or alu-MIG, get rid of the hole properly that way.

[muddy]

tig is more proper tho

[LandyManLuke]

indeedy

[Litch]

Rubber grommits always do it for me.

[SteveG]

Rubber grommits always do it for me.

[nas90]

Rubber grommits always do it for me.

But they sit proud of the surface!

Stick a thin bit of aluminium underneath and whatever you put inside the vehicle sits flat

Penlock 1:1 is much loved in the signs industry because it remains flexible and cures to 50% cure in a few minutes and full cure 24 hrs works well with stainless aluminium and plastics hence the use in signs.

3 lasers and a waterjet at my disposal

[Darren]

Thanks, all. I think I will go with sticking some ali on the underside afterall (although I'll have to clean off the waxoil first ). Welding, of any flavour, seems a bit over the top for some 6mm holes