HPLP Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 Just a suggestion....why not go and find someone thats breaking a vehicle and pull out the wiring loom from that. Ive just taken the one out from across the bulkhead of a 1994 disco and there was lots of useful wires there. H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveBo Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 Finally took some pictures today. I'm struggling to get to grips with how to load them without overloading anything. Here is a front view: Next shows the Superseal connectors and chassis clips with 4mm tube ends from www.polevolt.co.uk Nearside Offside with 10mm and 2 x 4mm T piece Bolts (M10 SS button) holding junction box (IP56 any DIY source) to underside of wing top blanking plate Junction box in situ Shows junction box under panel with 2 x M10 30mm hexagonal female to female spacers (blanking panel has ribbed undersides hence spacers) Junction box just about slides out under inner wing edge and cables are long enough so it will sit on wing top Simple 15amp connector blocks allow earths to be connected to a common earth strap made of battery cable and taken down through a grommet to the chassis. These also allow quick connection of accessories as required (roof lights). I planned to use heatshrink to seal the panel/tube connectors but after 20 mins of the hair dryer this hasn't shrunk so I'll seal these with self-amalgamating tape when I can find it (note to self - tidy garage). Panel connectors from Polevolt I used a nylon gland (DIY shed, 22mm I think) to hold the 13mm tube to the inner side of the under seat box. I drilled the whole using a step hole bit (cover relays with a cloth to stop swarf dropping into the box). You can just about make out the fuse/relay box under the main wiring loom connections to the ECU. his is a very tight fit and to remove the lid I need to disconnect the ECU. Unless you plan to install a dual battery setup (as I plan to) I would stick this box in the passenger side box where it will be more accessible. I will load the interior shots in another message. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveBo Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 continued... The last two shots in the previous message were of the Stebel Nautilus honr I mounted on a home made bracket. Hear is a shot of the dash with GPS, Mud Pod, Dension iPod holder and Parrot Bluetooth system. I have added an OEM front fog switch which is earth switched so I used a second micro relay up by the switch to convert this to a +ve switch Centre showing cubby box with CB radio. A mic extentions runs to a socket mounted on the lower edge of the dash. The six Carling switches from the right are - Mom rocker for horn, next two on-off for upper lights, on-off for heated mirrors plus two on-off spares. I moved the clock to make room for a tachometer from Croytec and will probably move the Parot to make way for an InfiniteQ EMS2 gauge. Switches and labels from Mud Stuff This is a side view of the Mobile Storage Systems cubby box which is 'fully loaded' so has two power sockets in the rear (I have wired them 1 x always on and 1 x ignition controlled. The Mud Tray has 3 more ignition controlled sockets and a Superseal plug so it can be disconnected for servicing. Shot of GPS aerial on top of snorkel. Rear mounted always on DIN socket with cable routed up passenger B post down C post then along and through under window trim. View of CB aerial with quick release (and rubber pad to prevent damage to roof edge) In the fuse / relay box I took two feeds from the incoming battery connection: One to a large fuse then on to a bank of smaller fuses for always on connections. The fuse bank units can use common rail connectors so one feed will supply the whole bank. This supplies my always on power sockets. The second supplies a second common rail bank of fuses which feeds the CB direct, ignition controlled power sockets and also the 4 accessory relays (mostly 30amp each) for fogs, horn and two sets of upper lights. To achieve ignition control of these I used a high capacity relay (60 or 70 amp I think) with a trigger off the ignition controlled power socket near the dash fusebox. So when the ignition is switched on, this relay activates and the others can all be activated by their switches. I used one relay/ large fuse unit, two micro relay units 4 relays in total) and a mini blade fuse unit which fills the case but leaves me with a few vacant fuse slots. There are bolts etc on the base of the under seat box (I used one for the common earth for the relays, accessories etc) but since the underside of the fuse relay box is open a layer of insulation is needed to prevent shorting. I used a solder blanket but this needs more thought. Where cables are not protected by convoluted tubing I used either braided sleeve or wrap on plastic protection. For the DIN socket I used pre braided twin core cable. I ran a braided sleeve from behind the dash fusebox under the carpet on the passenger side footwell which contains the main relay trigger and 6 other switched feeds. This runs beside then behinf th cubby box then into the drivers underside seat box. BY using 0.5mm cable and pulling the sleeving tight this is quite thin. A good time to add one or two spare cables. The switch and behind dash connections are another story which I'll post soon. I found Vehicle Wiring Solutions to be excellent but Polevolt have a better range of tubing (all sizes stated are internal diameters) and accessories if that is how you decide to go. They don't have online ordering but are very helpful via e-mail or on the phone. Any questions please ask. Cheers Any questions please shout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 nice work Steve just one thought the bumper mounted lights look a bit vunerable hanging over the front face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted March 30, 2008 Author Share Posted March 30, 2008 Wow. Steve, In a PM to me you said: "No problem. If I'd planned my work more carefully I'd have made a better job." WTF were you on about that looks bloody superb! Appreciate the time taken to just photo that lot. mad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 That's a nicely executed job, Steve, well done Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveBo Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 nice work Steve just one thought the bumper mounted lights look a bit vunerable hanging over the front face. Yes you're right they overhang by at least 30mm. Also, mounting them wide may make them susceptible to low vegetation. Although they are supposed to be pretty unbreakable. I plan to use the vehicle mainly for expeditions rather than hard core off-roading so these lamps are mainly for road use but if the going gets too tough I can easily unbolt the heads and unplug them tucking the wires inside the bumper. That's the plan anyway. Must remember to carry the Barri nut keys though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveBo Posted March 30, 2008 Share Posted March 30, 2008 Wow.Steve, In a PM to me you said: "No problem. If I'd planned my work more carefully I'd have made a better job." WTF were you on about that looks bloody superb! Appreciate the time taken to just photo that lot. mad No problem, thanks for the kind words. With hindsight I would have planned the interior wiring before starting it but I didn't really know what I was doing. For example, I just found out you can buy multi-bullet connectors which would have been a help. I'd advise working out what you want to add then research the connections needed (using sellers' instructions and forums etc. Mud Stuff, Croytech, VWP and Polevolt always respond well to a call). Then you can plan the interior wiring a bit better than mine (then add at least 2 wires on all major routes for extras). I had to get up to a bit of bodging to get the cubby box to fit (needed to be lifted to macth the raised seats) and to mount the cb. If there's any interest I may put these projects on a website. Trying to find a source for LED worklights next, http://www.truck-lite.eu.com/Catalogue/Products/tl-81.htm then a maplight. Have fun planning... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 31, 2008 Share Posted March 31, 2008 THats a neat worklight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 Sorry to drag this one up from the depths of the forum but I am just about to order my bits and pieces and need some help on how to go from the big thick 40mm2 battery cable to smaller wires and terminals suitable for a fuse box? So, from this: to: I can only think of a ring terminal on the end of the battery cable and then bolt smaller ones to this, but that all sounds a bit Heath Robinson thanks, mad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 Basically yes do that. Only use a Mini exhaust bobble. One threaded bit through the bodywork and the other for the cables. You won't get any terminal covers to fit over the ring terminal ends because they won't be all in a straight line. I used to use a piece of inner tube cable tiesd on each of the ends. mike A leopard can change its spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 Solder & heat-shrink. RS sell 3:1 ratio heat shrink (and 4:1 glue-lined which is lovely but a bit spendy) and it's always handy. Run a wire from each fuse feed, strip the ends and then, using all five of your hands, solder them to the end of the battery cable. It may not look beautiful but as long as everything's electrically connected firmly to everything else it will be OK. Then use heat-shrink to hide your shame Remember to let it cool down before trying to slide the heat-shrink over the joint though You could also strip the wire right back and solder it straight across all the terminals, it could look good or bad depending on a number of factors... Another option where lower powers are involved is to daisy-chain thick-ish wire through the big (yellow) spade connectors, if you have several things with a 10A fuse rating, a bit of 33A cable will supply three items. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 Basically yes do that. Only use a Mini exhaust bobble. A what? not sure what you mean, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 He's talking bobbins! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted May 14, 2008 Share Posted May 14, 2008 Thank you FF. That is exactly what I mean. Those bobbins also fit the Defender air box mounting. Half the price of the Land Rover ones. mike A leopard can change its spots. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted May 14, 2008 Author Share Posted May 14, 2008 Thanks guys. Excellent responses as ever. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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