Scotian Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Right guys. I've got a big day tomorrow with landrover repairs. My ordered parts arrived from Paddocks (Arrived this morning in Romania, only ordered them Wednesday :-) ) Here is the list of to do's for tomrrow Change water pump Fit new heater matrix in heater box (Modified from a Dacia Nova ) Change swivel bearings/pins in right swivel (got about 3 inches of play) Wire up front fog lights Fit new shock bushes all round Change two prop shaft UJs Fit two prop shaft gaitors Fit home made brackets on bonnet for spade I dont know if I'm going to manage all that in one day even with the invaluable help from my keen trainee LR mech Cristina (my girlfriend). Does anyone have any gems of wisdom for me to make things easier. I know how to do all the jobs but haven't actually done UJs, Swivel or water pump before. I;ve read up in the tech archive for the swivel pin change but cant find anything on the waterpump. So please let me know if there is anything I need to know about it otherwise I will just go ahead and change it with common sense as my only experience. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Well I hope it's a lot warmer where you are for you doing the job. I've chickened out today from doing a service on my Defender. Too cold. Hopefully tomorrow will be warmer... mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 waterpump is pretty straight fwd, leave the expansion cap on you wont loose as much coolant! Prop Ujs can take a while, propshaft tool from difflock is good (too late now i expect) a vice and some sockets so push the cups through plus circlip pliers should be adequate for the job. remove the grease nipples before trying to push the old ones out and fit the new grease nipples into the new UJ after fitting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted March 17, 2008 Author Share Posted March 17, 2008 Thanks for that on the UJs. I was just going to suck it and see but thats very helpfull advice, thanks. I'm planning on replacing the coolant anyway so not worried about loosing it. The weather here is pretty good. there was a spot of rain for the first time since the snow a few weeks ago today.. But for the past 2 weeks its been between 15 and 20 degrees and sunny with it :-) I had to do an oil change in January. Its got to have been the worst time I ever spent with the landrover. It was -10 and nothing could have been harder if it tried.. I really spat my dummy that day!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Do the jobs that will get/keep you mobile 1st nice to have afterwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 The water pump is pretty much like Les described it here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=13599 Or there's another one here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmobile Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Replacing prop UJ's, I used this from Les as a guide, pretty good, stopped me dropping a clanger a couple of times. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=7982&hl= Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cipx2 Posted March 17, 2008 Share Posted March 17, 2008 Here's another description of a water pump replacement on a 200tdi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted March 18, 2008 Author Share Posted March 18, 2008 Well. What a day I had. Started at 11am and finnished at 1830 (I dont have a garage so its all done on the street meaning its not easy or nice to work after dark) I only managed to change service the Swivel (change the bearing, bush and pins) and change the water pump. Firstly I did the important job, the swivel. It was not problems, everything came off easy (as it was all off recently for a half shaft change) and its all back together now and no play in the swivel. It was the bottom bearing that was shot, the top bush was fine but I changed it anyway and am keeping the old bush and pin as a spare incase anyone needs one out here in an emergancy. People always tell me how hard it is to undo nuts and bolts in the drive train and around the wheels/axles but I never have a problem. But no one ever said I might have trouble getting the old water pump off. And OH MY GOD.. I never had such a hard time in my life. I ended up having to use a hammer and knif and cut away some of the old pump casing to get it off becuase the bolts were so stuck. What are they made out of? Alloy or somthing stupid like that? I put a 10mm socket on them and 3 of them just rounded off, then I got two of them off using a ring spanner (imperial size almost 10mm but smaller, cant remember its size now), hammering it on and turning them with a big bar on the spanner (after cutting off the open side of the spanner to accomodate the bar) , one of hem sheered off and the last one wouldnt move atall. I tried several meathods of budging it but to no avail. I ended up having to cut the area around the bolt so I could get the pump off then shaving the bolt down on both sides so I could put and adjustable on it and I finally got it out. I've replaced the damaged bolts but hevent tried getting the broken thread out yet. Being steel its going to be hard to drill out without damaging the alloy casing... I fitted the pump and will just hope that it wont leak. If it does does anyone have any ideas how to get the broken thread out (its the very bottom one)? Here are the pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted March 18, 2008 Author Share Posted March 18, 2008 And the stuck bolts from the pump change. Look at the state of the propeller on the pump. it was totally think with corrosion.. Is that normal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted March 20, 2008 Author Share Posted March 20, 2008 Change water pump Fit new heater matrix in heater box (Modified from a Dacia Nova ) Change swivel bearings/pins in right swivel (got about 3 inches of play) Wire up front fog lights Fit new shock bushes all round Change two prop shaft UJs Fit two prop shaft gaitors Fit home made brackets on bonnet for spade Right. Done whats said up there after 2 days and a morning of work. I've decided not to to the UJs (I'll let them run till they are really bad and just grease them more often) and the Gators are a waste of space, Cant fit the front one becase the prop wont take it and dont really see how I can get the rear one on without taking the prop shaft apart. The other two jobs I will do this afternoon or tomrrow. Oh. and I cheated. I only did the rear bushes, couldnt face the fronts just now as the front right is a brand new OEM set and the front left is a brand new modifies set from a Daewoo matiz . I'm making a bad habbit of fitting other parts in my landrover :-S Here are some pics. OEM knackard bush next to OEM new bush next to a new Poly bush.. interesting difference. Also a pic of the Daca Nova heater matrix all fitted in the landrover heater box with slight modifications. And a pic of a dacia nova incase you didnt know what it was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mickeyw Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 Mmmm those water pump bolts look pretty nasty. I am assuming you have tried lots of WD40 or similar and persistant use of mole grips on the broken bolt. You could try a bit of heat too. If this doesn't work I would drill a small hole into the centre of the bolt so you can use a screw extractor tool, (rather like a left handed thread tap). I expect the rad will have top come out for that . I hope you have screwed the new bolts in with plenty if copper grease around them to prevent future corrosion. Don't fancy struggling like that again. Michael Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted March 20, 2008 Author Share Posted March 20, 2008 I got the last one out by cutting the bold head down to a long bar shape and then put an agustable spanner on it. It came out fine probably from all the hammering on it while cutting it to shape. The last one is still in there (the bottom one) but there are no leaks from the pump so I'm going to leave it untill such time it starts being a problem. Then I'll try that smal hole and extractor idea. thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Milemarker Type S Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 Hi Scotian, To fit the gaiters on the propshafts you will need to separate the two halves- very easy just pull!- But before you do make sure you put a mark on both ends to ensure that you put it back together in the same position. They are balanced and if the ends are moved relative to each other the balancing will be out and you will get a very annoying vibration! I would also be careful about leaving the propshaft UJ's- if they have noticable slack in them they can fail at any time- a flailing propshaft will cause massive damage if a UJ breaks while you are going along... I can swap one in about 10-15 minutes using a hammer, some sockets and a vice without rushing... Well worth doing and then keep the new ones greased regularly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted March 20, 2008 Author Share Posted March 20, 2008 In 7 years in the army I never had one fail but in the last 4 years with my own landrover I've broken about 8 and they all went slowly (normally after I did somthing very UJ intensive) and gave me time to notice them and replace them before there was trouble of the prop flaying around. So dont worry, I wont end up with a disaster, I know how much more I can push them. when I say they need changing, I mean there is a tiny tiny bit of movement in them and I know that they will just get worse and need doing some time soon. Thats why I ordered them now, so I have them in hand for when its time (dont want to be stuck here with 2WD waiting for them to come in the post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greenmobile Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 So dont worry, I wont end up with a disaster, I know how much more I can push them. I thought that too, "I'm not that far from home, I reckon they'll be OK"! BANG! Front prop went but luckily didn't put any holes in anything, just dents... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mike4444244 Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 word of caution, those LH thread screw extractor things tend to be utter cr@p and will snap off leaving a bolt in the hole now with a hardened steel core, better are the LH drill bits, if you still cant get it out then drill it and helicoil or tap it to the next size up... I'd do the UJ if i was you, you can whip the prop off the car and go and do it in the warm? Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted March 20, 2008 Author Share Posted March 20, 2008 you can whip the prop off the car and go and do it in the warm?Mike I can do it outside then becuase its hot and sunny here almost every day for the past couple of weeks I'm not that impressed with the Dacia heater matrix. Its all plumbed in properly. Pipes going in and out are both hot but the air isnt that hot.... Not sure if its somthing I've done wrong or the matrix is just not very good I had lots of hope becuase it was a proper modern one with nice fine fins rather than the one from the Arc that I had before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 Are both the heater pipes hot (yes, just reread your post !) ? You may well have an air lock in the heater which is preventing the hot water circulating through it. Was it a new matrix, if not did you back flush it before fitting ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted March 20, 2008 Author Share Posted March 20, 2008 I was thinking that if both pipes are hot it would mean there is no air lock. Which is it? If there is an air lock how can I flush it through? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 I was thinking that if both pipes are hot it would mean there is no air lock. Which is it? If there is an air lock how can I flush it through? Disconnect both hoses at the heater. To backflush it you need to put your garden hose on the outlet, this flushes any debris back out the way it came in through the inlet. To bleed the heat exchanger after refilling the coolant, run the engine and whilst it's cold (not a hot engine!!!!!) slacken one of the jubilee clips at the heater and if air is present it will vent. Once water flows out retighten the jubilee clip. HTH Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scotian Posted March 20, 2008 Author Share Posted March 20, 2008 Thanks alot. you;ve just added a new job on my ever growing todo list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 20, 2008 Share Posted March 20, 2008 undo 1 hose & let the water flow out of it once the matrix is full tighten the hose clip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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