LT95 + V8 into a Series 2A

[henrycrabbe]

^^^ Has anyone fitted this combination?

I was looking at this website where a 101 short bellhousing LT95 has been used and it all seems to fit quite well. I just wondered if any one else had done this. The LT95 seems to be quite strong enough to handle the V8 torque (rangerover standard fitment I believe). Yes I know its permanent 4x4, thats why I have a Stage 1 V8 front axle ready to go in

Any other ideas for fitting V8's to series whilst still keeping the recessed front and not chewing gearboxes every 5 mins would be welcome.

Thanks

[Jon White]

I'd fit a defender LT77 via a standard series adaptor plate and an LT230.

Granted you dont get the advantage of the larger clutch, but you get a 5 speed, relatively modern box thats easy to get bits for. LT95's are getting very long in the tooth now, and the 101 bellhousing and input shafts are hard to find. You'll be lucky to pick an LT95 up 2nd hand thats not compeltely knackered!

Jon

[FridgeFreezer]

If you've got the bits, it's a fairly sensible idea.

If you haven't, as Jon said, there are other options such as LT77 or R380. If you have a LWB it's far easier as you can use the common long V8 bellhousings and not worry about fitting stuff in.

I have V8 & long bellhousing & R380 & LT230 in the 109, with Disco2 PAS and keeping a front rad and the Series front end, here's the clearance:

With an H14W in the front the front bumper is no further forward than the original Series.

[RPR]

I think the LT95/V8 sounds like a great solution. What's the T-case low ratio in the LT95 (integral)?

You can use the Series gearbox but you need to do some chopping around the bulkhead:

and it fits in most wonderfully, if done properly (thank you Matt Browne, Overland Engineering!):

Leaving the front end in place:

But if you have the LT95 and the 101 bellhousing, that sounds like a winner! If you go that route, please report back with lots of pics and obscure details!!!

Good luck.

[tacr2man]

When I fitted a V8 to a series 2a I used the h/d series lr rad and shortened it just enough th allow it to sit on top of crossmember, up close to the military landrover oil cooler that I had fitted, I then cut down the radiator mounting side panels on the front panel , and removed the bonnet catch, and used the old style spring loaded bonnet catches , that fix to wing tops. I used the normal fan ( dont see the point in replacing with lecky fans ) I also used the remote oil filter conversion ala MGB GTV8 . to give plenty of front axle clearance. A bit OT but , I retained the centre headlamps , but also fitted series111 front wings with LHD headlamps for use in Europe.

I put louvres in the rear of the bonnet to let some of the heat out as the footwell gets VERY HOT . I also fitted twin tanks ala military , coz the standard 10 gallon doesnt get you very far

[FridgeFreezer]

Good point, a few details I missed out:

You'll almost certainly want a remote oil filter kit on it, Think Automotive sell them either as the Mocal spin-on ones or the very low profile replacement oil pump cover PC1.

I trimmed all the cowling off the back of my rad panel and fitted electric fans, mind you my rad was custom made and a bit heavy duty, the good thing is it cools the 4.6 and doesn't clog with mud. V8's need to be kept cool so if your rad is at all questionable, budget for an uprated item. If it struggles, an oil cooler can make a decent difference, and having a remote filter kit it's only the addition of one hose to add it.

You will probably need to trim the footwells a-la RPR's picture, not just for clearance but if you ever want to change the back spark plugs . My engine is quite far back, here's what Vince did to my bulkhead:

[istruggle2gate11]

I had the V8, 4 pot LT77 via a adaptor plate and a BW transfer case in my Series 1 86", managed to keep the classic look of stepped in rad etc but had a rear prop length of 13". The prop was just on its limits even on leafs!

The 101 box is a good solution, fitted to many a 80" trialer!

My two peneth.... The lt95 is a very good box, yes a lot of knackered ones out there, but they go for a very long time even when rough, the gear change was never a strong point and should not be factored into the equation if your looking for reliability, I personally have always been nervous of LT77's they are much much weaker.

Only pictures I have of the position with an lt77:

And FF..................

[FridgeFreezer]

And FF..................

don't worry, it never got connected, and then some chap cut the top off it

[henrycrabbe]

Thanks guys, plenty of food for thought there.

I think I'll stick with the LT95/101 bellhousing then, I think I've found a source for one

Does anyone know what the differences are between the Rangerover LT95 and 101 version (apart from the bellhousing) 'cos a Rangie one would be cheaper to source and the 101 bellhousing will swap straight on to it. I'm wondering about the gear & transfer selector positions etc...

Cheers.

[MECCANO]

Thanks guys, plenty of food for thought there.

I think I'll stick with the LT95/101 bellhousing then, I think I've found a source for one

Does anyone know what the differences are between the Rangerover LT95 and 101 version (apart from the bellhousing) 'cos a Rangie one would be cheaper to source and the 101 bellhousing will swap straight on to it. I'm wondering about the gear & transfer selector positions etc...

Cheers.

Well its probably not so important, but the 101 transfer gearing is lower than a rangie. but it is interchangable between the two.

[FridgeFreezer]

If the RR bellhousing is longer, the input shaft will be too, so you'll need to do something about that. Quite what you can do I'm not sure though

[MECCANO]

If the RR bellhousing is longer, the input shaft will be too, so you'll need to do something about that. Quite what you can do I'm not sure though

http://www.nkrecovery.co.uk/gearbox.html

[RobotMan]

Nick from NK is a top bloke, drives a nice Landy or two.

[Jon W]

Bringing this back to the top a few years later. I have a Rover V8 in a series 2, and the current mocal remote oil filter kit does not leave much clearance with the diff. This is a spin on type with 90 degree unions coming off it.

To give more clearance would I be better getting:

http://www.mattlewisracing.co.uk/product.php/300/155/oil_cooler_filter_cover___matt_lewis_racing

this to replace the spin on piece, and will the outlets be in a good place

Or would the MGV8 type

http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/oil-filter-spin-on-v8.html

Hopefully the 1st type will give a good amount of extra clearance as it is the cheaper or the 2, Any idea how much extra clearance it will give. I am trying to get a photo of my phone to upload to show the current set up

Thoughts please

Thanks

Jon