Axle mods

[Chris123]

Hi,

My nice new SWB galv rolling chassis arrived yesterday, which I am muchly pleased about. And the V8 I'm sorting out is almost ready to drop in.

I've got a salisbury rear axle kicking around, and my intention was to fit that to take the V8, an LT77 box, and an ashcroft conversion to fit a series t-box. Job sorted.

However I've then realised that fitting the salisbury rear axle isn't a nut and bolt job.

Now I'm want to keep the leaf suspension, and am just wondering what other axle jobs are available which are easier?

I know you can fit RR axles with a bit of modding (involves welding, but I might be able to find someone to do that) and the wider track base would be cool if nothing else, this would also provide the advantage of all round disks. And I could use an LT230 box and save money there.

Is it possible to fit salisbury internals to a standard rover case without too much work?

Any other options out there?

Thanks,

Chris

[FridgeFreezer]

Apart from moving the spring seats inboard a tad, the only mod needed to fit a salisbury on the back is a shorter propshaft, you might strike lucky and find a LR one that fits, or the propshaft clinic can make or modify one to suit.

Fitting RR axles has been covered many times before, the steering will foul the leaves so there's various solutions (I think Meccano got round it by raising the spring seats a tad, which was elegant but did lose you a few mm ground clearance). Fitting RR axles will not be stronger than having a salisbury. You can fit an LT230 with normal Series axles, either keeping full-time 4x4 and living with slight vibration when steering or converting it to 4x2 (see the tech archive).

You can't realistically fit Salisbury internals to a Rover axle, you'd have to use the whole diff part so the nose length problem would still be there. If you're considering axle swaps I'd be looking at Toyota, Nissan, etc. as it's just as much work (potentially less in fact as some use leaves), they are stronger, and many come with lockers.

The problem you'll run into with all this in an SWB is keeping the length down, the LT77 & LT230 are longer than a Series box, if you have a long diff nose on the rear your rear prop will end up too short to work. It's doable, but you need to do some serious tape measure work and you may have to chop your chassis mounts about a bit. Losing the radiator cowling to gain that 10" of space and going to an electric fan (or even better putting the rad in the back) will also save space for the engine & stuff to move forward.

[dirtydiesel]

I built a rover axle a while ago that used a detroit locking center and salisbury shafts, but i had to shorten the case and alter the diff offset to get the shafts in.

you'd be better just moving the spring seats on the salisbury.

[RPR]

Series Trek Halfshafts

Keep the Rover axle housing, pop-in the 30 spline Toy half-shafts and Toy e-locking differentials (Hilux) from the scrappy. Keep the Series T-case. Your rig will be top notch.

[kingdong]

Hi all

whats involved in fitting a salsbury rear axle to a series.

graham.

soon to have a 200 tdi in.

[FridgeFreezer]

Err, that's what's just been explained isn't it?

[Chris123]

Fitting RR axles has been covered many times before, the steering will foul the leaves so there's various solutions (I think Meccano got round it by raising the spring seats a tad, which was elegant but did lose you a few mm ground clearance). Fitting RR axles will not be stronger than having a salisbury. You can fit an LT230 with normal Series axles, either keeping full-time 4x4 and living with slight vibration when steering or converting it to 4x2 (see the tech archive).

Hi Fridge, I think I saw that thread about the seats, did he lose 20mm? If so I'd be tempted to fit extended shackles, although I'm aware that the axle case would still be lower. I'll have a look through at the other options though.

If I were to go permament 4x4 would I have to worry about the strength of the axles at all? As surely the load would be halved; I'm not running a huge V8 - just a 3.5 on SU carbs.

You can't realistically fit Salisbury internals to a Rover axle, you'd have to use the whole diff part so the nose length problem would still be there. If you're considering axle swaps I'd be looking at Toyota, Nissan, etc. as it's just as much work (potentially less in fact as some use leaves), they are stronger, and many come with lockers.

Quite tempting, but I haven't decided if I want to keep it with LR pieces for RTVs etc. Will definately have a look into it.

The problem you'll run into with all this in an SWB is keeping the length down, the LT77 & LT230 are longer than a Series box, if you have a long diff nose on the rear your rear prop will end up too short to work. It's doable, but you need to do some serious tape measure work and you may have to chop your chassis mounts about a bit. Losing the radiator cowling to gain that 10" of space and going to an electric fan (or even better putting the rad in the back) will also save space for the engine & stuff to move forward.

That's a problem I'm becoming more and more aware of. I have removed the fan and cowling and intend to use leccy blowers, but keeping the indented series grill. I was going to use the steve parker mount adapters, but I'm not sure if they would move it far enough forward: anybody know any better, or will I have to get some custom ones made up?

Bearing in mind I'm not a welder is there any additional challenge to welding the mounts on the chassis if it's galvanised?

Also I'm living near london now, if anyone's had the same problems I'd like to travel and have a look at their solutions.

Thanks,

Chris

[kingdong]

Err, that's what's just been explained isn't it?

sorry fridge forgot were i was with the reading being as i have got a galv chassis i will stay with the std axle and may look at a diff that is in between a 4.7.1 and a 3.5.4 the reason why i am asking is i have a s1 g/box that is a lot higher ratio than a s11a g/box so thinking rangy diffs may be too high for the gearing.

graham.

s11a swb bronze green

soon to have a 200 tdi in.

[Chris123]

Just been reading through this thread and am I correct in understanding that as meccano has described, that once you fit extended shackles there are no track rod issues?

So it would just be remove coil stuff from RR axle

Weld leaf stuff to RR axle

Fit extended shackles

Fit flares

Job done?

[FridgeFreezer]

If I were to go permament 4x4 would I have to worry about the strength of the axles at all? As surely the load would be halved;

The load is halved while all four wheels have traction.

I'm not running a huge V8 - just a 3.5 on SU carbs.

Must you use the "c" word round here?

Quite tempting, but I haven't decided if I want to keep it with LR pieces for RTVs etc.

Personally any club that puts daft restrictions like that on events is not one I'm going to join. You can have a V8 S1 on coils but if you use a toyota diff you're out

Bearing in mind I'm not a welder is there any additional challenge to welding the mounts on the chassis if it's galvanised?

Well, you have to grind all the galvanising off in the area to be welded, which would seem a bit of a compromise of it's anti-corrosion attributes.

[MECCANO]

meccano has described, that once you fit extended shackles there are no track rod issues?

So it would just be remove coil stuff from RR axle

Weld leaf stuff to RR axle

Fit extended shackles

Fit flares

Job done?

In theory. I believe jericho went that route and didnt have any problems. I havent tried it my self, but on paper it seems to add up and i have heard a few reports back of it working fine.

I'm currently fitting a lt77/lt230 +200tdi into my Lwt... I say currently, Work commitments etc, have ment it running into its second year :`( I moved the engine forwards as far as i could see possible, but that still required a prop shortened by around 35 mm.

[Chris123]

In theory. I believe jericho went that route and didnt have any problems. I havent tried it my self, but on paper it seems to add up and i have heard a few reports back of it working fine.

I'm currently fitting a lt77/lt230 +200tdi into my Lwt... I say currently, Work commitments etc, have ment it running into its second year :`( I moved the engine forwards as far as i could see possible, but that still required a prop shortened by around 35 mm.

hi, meccano.

i'm currently living in watford, if you're free one evening this week could i pop up and have a looksee at your machine?

[MECCANO]

hi, meccano.

i'm currently living in watford, if you're free one evening this week could i pop up and have a look see at your machine?

Yup sure... ill PM you tomorrow with when im around. I might have to unbury a few things too!!!

Chris

[CR88]

Hi,

This is my experience:

SIIA with original axles - al least 2 half-shafts broken and one crown wheel - reinforcement needed;

Salisbury axle on the rear with ARB - fullproof solution; two half-shafts broken on front axle -

Solutions:

- Salisbury axle on front axle;

- Series Trek Halfshatf;

- DEF/DISCO/RR axles.

1st solution, very difficult to find here (in Portugal) a front Salisbury axle and spare parts are rare.

2nd solution, very good solution and very good half-shafts in my opinion but dependent of US supplier.

3nd solution, not DIY solution but is easy to find reinforced material and a good improvement in handling and braking.

In choose the last one.

At moment is stopped, but I hope to drive it next Summer.

But I have one doubt.

The right inclination of axles in order to avoid vibration. Any idea?

Found a reference here.

Your opinion???

thanks

[RPR]

Carlos,

If you are fitting coiler Rover axles (24 spline I presume) via leaf springs, you shouldn't face any real change in pinion angle or need for improved/CV jointed props. Same(ish) axle. Same pinion length and, unless you go SOA or something when fabbing the new leaf spring perches, same relative position for the props (unless I'm missing something).

BTW, with the decline of the US Peso vs the E, you should be delighted with a US suplier

[dirtydiesel]

Carlos,

If you are fitting coiler Rover axles (24 spline I presume) via leaf springs, you shouldn't face any real change in pinion angle or need for improved/CV jointed props. Same(ish) axle. Same pinion length and, unless you go SOA or something when fabbing the new leaf spring perches, same relative position for the props (unless I'm missing something).

BTW, with the decline of the US Peso vs the E, you should be delighted with a US suplier

You will acually find it easier to get the desired prop angle/castor, because on a coiler axles there is more castor relative to diff nose angle, than on a series axle.

[Roth]

Hi, sorry to butt in on someone elses thread but I figured it would save making another thread for a similar question. I have a pair of Disco axles that I intend to fit to my SWB Series 3. I will be fitting Parabolics and extended shockers but I was also planning on mounting the leaf plates to the top of the axles (similar to the mod on a series axle/flipping the axle casing) and basically mounting the srpings on top of the axles, giving it more lift but mainly because the tyres I want to fit are a little too agressive and big and I reckon they might catch the wings or chassis on an off road course.

Would I experiance any problems if I fitted these in such a manner.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

[FridgeFreezer]

Yes, you'd get spring wrap. Have a search for SOA (Spring Over Axle) it's been discussed here before. if you're determined to do it, have a search for anti-wrap bars.

[Drillerjoskin]

Yes, you'd get spring wrap. Have a search for SOA (Spring Over Axle) it's been discussed here before. if you're determined to do it, have a search for anti-wrap bars.

and a pair of sturdy underpants to go with them!!!

i've just finished fitting a lwb series salisbury into one of my lightweights and to be honest its not the hardest of jobs to do! unfortunatly i am still something of a computer numpty otherwise i'd post one of those impressive haynes type step by step jobs with photos and all !!

but if you decide to go with the salisbury option i'd be happy to supply you with a cutting list for the new spring mounts, which if you are not a competent welder you could 'with some carefull measuring' tack together and pass on to a professional for finishing off.

with your new mounts in position you have two more little mods to make, 1, remove the lwb shock mounts ,and 2, trim off one side of the bump stop to allow for the u bolts.

as previously mentioned you will also require a slightly shorter rear prop, personaly i made one up using agricultural pto shafts with LR flanges and hardy spicers, but this job could also be done professionally for you by any number of companys, not very local for you i'm afraid but i can recommend Parkinsons of Boston, i've allways had excellent service from them.

The alterations to the axle, not including removal and refitting, took approx 3 and 1/2 hours (which is not much longer than it took me to write this!)

if you would like the cutting list then send me a pm and i'll give you a call with it,

Hope this is some help to you, cheers Steve.

[CR88]

BTW, with the decline of the US Peso vs the E, you should be delighted with a US suplier

Nowadays is a good option buying in the US... but the taxes in the Border Office are high, and discourages any adventure outside the EU boundaries.

[old leafer]

Hi, sorry to butt in on someone elses thread but I figured it would save making another thread for a similar question. I have a pair of Disco axles that I intend to fit to my SWB Series 3. I will be fitting Parabolics and extended shockers but I was also planning on mounting the leaf plates to the top of the axles (similar to the mod on a series axle/flipping the axle casing) and basically mounting the srpings on top of the axles, giving it more lift but mainly because the tyres I want to fit are a little too agressive and big and I reckon they might catch the wings or chassis on an off road course.

Would I experiance any problems if I fitted these in such a manner.

Thanks in advance for any help you can offer.

you will also find it is a little bit unstable and wanders a lot on road

[FridgeFreezer]

And you'll need anti-wrap bars.

[Gareth Dickens]

I have taken a set of ENV axles (front and rear) and flip them over laterally (about the longitudinal axis). I then fit them under the leafs. I then rotated the centre back to it's original position so as to have the wheels turning in the right (correct) direction. I had another issue though as I fit a F250 (NP205) xfer case and had to move the pumpkins from the RHS as on S3 Landies to the left as on F250's. Should not break my gearbox or xfer case with the V8 now. I was contemplating this with a Sallisbury but apparently it is a kak job to remove and refit the tubes.

[Gareth Dickens]

And you'll need anti-wrap bars.

I am trying another approach to the anti-wrap bar and have fitted a short leaf above the springpack on my SOA setup. I'm hoping this will spread any twisting load on the pack. Why are rears not as susceptable to wrap as the fronts?

[Gareth Dickens]

One more thing here. My S3 LWB came out with a Sallisbury in the back. Will it not just bolt to a SWB? Are you perhaps trying to fit Defender Sallisbury to a SWB?