Rear brake pad and disc change?

[Tomas4x4]

Its time for a disc and pad change on the rear of my 1996 300tdi disco, ive never done it before so I am wondering what to expect, is it difficult? Will i need to remove the hub and the half shaft (and then renew axle oil)?

Also will there be any seals or anything to replace at the same time?

Any pointers will be greatly appreciated!!

Cheers.

[africanpete]

No offense intended here, but I think you should recruit a fellow club member that has done this before and is local to you to give you a hand, renewing brakes is very straight forward but you must know what you are doing or you are just asking for trouble.

To answer your questions, no, you don't have to remove the hub or half shaft, you will only need seals for the pistons on the calipers, it's worth doing these while the calipers are off as they are not expensive, BUT, you must know what you are doing!

Sorry to come across as negative, that's not my intention, I have a thing about brakes.

Pete

[russ3120]

Its time for a disc and pad change on the rear of my 1996 300tdi disco, ive never done it before so I am wondering what to expect, is it difficult? Will i need to remove the hub and the half shaft (and then renew axle oil)?

Also will there be any seals or anything to replace at the same time?

Any pointers will be greatly appreciated!!

Cheers.

If you could fill you location in on your profile, it would be easier as someone closer to you could pop round and show you.

or

go and get one of those Haynes manual thingies.

if you are close to me I would willingly sit and drink brews and pointed while you were doing you brakes

Russ

[kevinr]

I recently replaced the discs and pads on my 3.9 V8, and I found the job pretty straight forward.

You will need to remove the calipers, it's a two bolt job on each one...remember to suspend them once removed to protect the breakpipe.

Yes you will have to remove the half shafts, it's 5 bolts which are recommended to be renewed on refitting, and should be torqued. (I can't recall the torque settings..apologies) and there is a paper gasket that will need to be replaced here...once loosened, mark it's location and withdraw.

Next is the Hubnut, remove this (it's a 32mm socket if I recall) and behind this is a locking washer, will also need replacing, followed by a secondary hubnut, emove these and the disc should withdraw..watch out for the bearings as these may fall out..no drama though.

once you have the disc in hand, you will need to remove all the gubbins from it (wheel bolt attachement). this is fairly obvious once you have it in hand and compare it to the new ones, it's 5 small nylock nuts to remove the abs sensing ring (sorry for lack of technical terminology ) and 4 larger bolts underneath that, There is also an oil seal on this that will need renewing.

Once you have the disk itself removed from all the gubbins, fit the new one in the reverse order.

All that should need renewing is the 5 halfshaft bolts, the locking washer and the halfshaft gasket, and the oilseal. You should not need to replace the oil at all.

Hope this helps, and maybe someone far more experienced could elaborate on this if needed.

[JimAttrill]

To answer your questions, no, you don't have to remove the hub or half shaft, you will only need seals for the pistons on the calipers

Pete

Serious misinformation here Pete, you state two things which are both wrong.

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Serious misinformation here Pete, you state two things which are both wrong.

^^^^^^^^^^^

Er Yeah - wot he said

Have a lookie here - http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=14815 may help a bit, plus I think Les H has put tech posts in the tech achive forum LIKE THIS ; http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=10687 .

In simple terms think of it as 3 jobs.

Job 1.

removing the hubs to remove the old disks and pop the new ones on

job 2.

Putting the new hubs with discs on them back on and building the axle back up

Job 3

Changing the pads

With care and a few tools its not too tricky, take you time, have a good read up of what your doing, replace locking tabs rather than reusing old ones and make sure you torque stuff up to the correct tightnesses. Within Jobs 1 2 & 3 you can also check or replace the wheel bearings and prob the hub seals while you in there, the trick is to ensure you have the items - seals gaskets lock tabs oils etc before you start otherwise it can turn into a PITA not having what you need - bearings are tricky, as you need to remove 1st to see if they need replacing....

have a read re the above and have a think, but profile and where you are would possibly bring you more help

Nige

[JimAttrill]

Tip - the bolts holding the disk to the hub can be very tight. The trick is to put your road wheel on the ground and then put the hub and disk into the wheel. Or you need a very large vice to hold the hub.

This article by Les shows how to change the rear wheel bearings (which you are not going to actually do) but it does show how to strip the hub out and replace. Taking the disk off and refitting is the easy bit.

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=10286

[nickm]

Not a hard job to do just take your time

if your replacing your discs then you may aswell replace your bearings and seals

that way you shouldnt be taking it all apart again in 6 months time

and you'll have your old discs complete so you can use them to refer back to

to see how far the bearings/seals need to be installed

[africanpete]

Serious misinformation here Pete, you state two things which are both wrong.

OOps Should of read post properly, I was on about a D2. This is exactly why I said you need someone helping you that has done this before, it's very easy to miss read a tip that someone has given you and then it can all go wrong.

Anyways, apologies for the misinformation.

Pete

[JimAttrill]

Apology accepted

But even on a DII, you don't need to change the caliper seals (unless we are talking about different seals). I am referring to the caliper piston seals. I have never had to change those on a DII yet but have done loads of DI and Defender ones.

[Andy J]

Its time for a disc and pad change on the rear of my 1996 300tdi disco, ive never done it before so I am wondering what to expect, is it difficult? Will i need to remove the hub and the half shaft (and then renew axle oil)?

Also will there be any seals or anything to replace at the same time?

Any pointers will be greatly appreciated!!

Cheers.

Hi Tomas,

ive done this recently - its not too difficult. The rear hub/halfshaft assembly is much simpler on the rear than the front. Use multipoint sockets for both the bolts securing the calipers to the axle and the disc to the hub. It can be difficult to separate the disc from the hub but just be persistent. I would agree with other replies that you would be wise to replace the hub bearings and seals at the same time (wont cost too much). You may also need a pair of gaskets for the hub to drive flange seal on reassembly.

I would guess the main things you need are a good sturdy vice and a small breaker bar to crack the hub/disc nuts.

Another tip from a mistake i have made in the past - make sure you replace the anti-rattle kits. I skimped on this once and one of the pads jiggled around so much it fell through the caliper more than it should and was gradually scoring a deep groove in the hub - OOops!

Cheers

Andy

[africanpete]

Apology accepted

But even on a DII, you don't need to change the caliper seals (unless we are talking about different seals). I am referring to the caliper piston seals. I have never had to change those on a DII yet but have done loads of DI and Defender ones.

I was also referring to those, I think it depends on the milage of the vehicle and what sort of use it gets, if he does plenty of laning, fording they will wear out quicker, I just think that a quick check while the caliper is off is a relatively easy check to perform and is also preventitive maintenance. Anyway, thats just the way I think, the seals are cheap and you get a shed load of "piece of mind" which can't be bad thing when it comes to brakes.

Later

Pete

Ps. Where abouts in Joburg are you?

[Tomas4x4]

Brilliant! Thanks for all the advice guys, I really appreciate it. Taking into account what you've all said im going to change the bearings and seals at the same time because im not sure when they where done last, so its peace of mind!

Im going to order everything I need and have a good weekend on it, im in no rush. I'll report back on how the job whent. One quick question, will I need any special tools for the bearings and seals?

Cheers!

[russ3120]

Special tools?

52mm box spanner for the bearing nuts

brass drifft to tap out the old bearings and to tap in the new ones

a pot of bearing grease

and

a sense of humour for when you get grease everywhere

[nickm]

use sommit like timkin bearings worth paying the extra few quid

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Beer ?

Nige

[allegedly]

Hi Tomas. Good advice there, particularly the links from Nige. As you've probably seen, they're excellent step by step pics. I recently did all of mine and they made it a lot easier than it could have been!

There's a very good LR Disco manual available on here in the tech section showing all the parts they should have, (turned out mine was missing various gasket/seals.) I got all the parts needed on line, fairly cheap. I got spare hub rear grease seals as they looked as though I could knacker at least one fitting them! And the locking washers cost about 50p.

Tips? Well, new to this but I found the two retaining bolts on the caliper tighter than a tight thing and easy to round off. After cleaning the heads as best I could with a wire brush, I applied a little heat and loads of easing oil (WD40 etc). I also found the size quoted in the manual was not the same as the actual bolts fitted (there's more than one size apparently) and a very tight fit multi splined 3/4 drive socket is a must. Stating the obvious I know but I mean a 'kin tight fit! I used a bar as I had to tap it with a mallet to free em off.

Another good tip mentioned on here and in the tech section is to put the wheel on the floor, upside down and place the hub with the disc still attached in it with the studs through the holes and spin a couple of wheel nuts back on. This made freeing off the bolts holding the disc to the hub much easier, as did application of heat and copious WD. Once they're off, I stood the disc (new discs to go on so I wasn't concerned at their condition.) in the vice and sprayed WD on the join then had to use brute force and a big hammer on one of them,it was harder than coming between me and my beer, the other came off with a few taps.

Maybe a false economy but the bearings seemed ok so I cleaned them up and re packed with grease. I went to a lot of trouble to really pack it in and made sure there was loads everywhere else, as shown in the links. Time will tell!

Should you decide to rebuild your calipers, there's an excellent post on here on how to do it. I even posted a few pics of mine when I took 'em off, barely recognisable as calipers!

Good luck mate

[JimAttrill]

I was also referring to those, I think it depends on the milage of the vehicle and what sort of use it gets, if he does plenty of laning, fording they will wear out quicker, I just think that a quick check while the caliper is off is a relatively easy check to perform and is also preventitive maintenance. Anyway, thats just the way I think, the seals are cheap and you get a shed load of "piece of mind" which can't be bad thing when it comes to brakes.

Later

Pete

Ps. Where abouts in Joburg are you?

Agreed, but changing caliper seals is not really for the mechanically inexperienced, and being a major safety item should maybe be left alone. We are both talking 'peace of mind' but from different angles

I live between 4ways and Northgate, in a suburb called Joburg North.

ps. Yet another tip (only applicable if you change the wheel bearings). I used the old race to bash in the new one once, and then found the old race got stuck. The trick is to cut the race with an angle grinder, then you can use it to get the new one in nice and square, and it comes out easily.

[Tomas4x4]

Ok wheel new wheel bearings ordered with lockwashers and gaskets and oil seals, I think ill leave the calipers alone for now, the job sounds big enough as it is! Ive commandeered a shed on my mates farm near Shrewsbury for as long as I need, so all going well I can tackle the job on Sunday and Monday and Tuesday etc etc.

Thanks for all the great advice!! Ill report back soon.

Cheers.

[rocky]

Hi Tomas4x4,

I hope you have the good fortune that i have just had fitting new discs/pads, the caliper bolts had been given a smear or two of copper grease and the were very easy to undo. Good luck, Rocky

[Tomas4x4]

Done!! A few minor glitches, a few choice words at times, but bolts where easy enough to get off, and all is well now.

Thanks for all the great advice, much appreciated chaps.

Tom.

[thebiglad]

Done!! A few minor glitches, a few choice words at times, but bolts where easy enough to get off, and all is well now.

Thanks for all the great advice, much appreciated chaps.

Tom.

Well done Tom, I bet you're feeling really chuffed now and so you should, the job you've just done would be several £hundred done by a garage

Cheers

Dave

[africanpete]

Well done Tom, glad to hear it all went well.

Pete

[stageonesimmo]

Hi Tomas4x4,

I hope you have the good fortune that i have just had fitting new discs/pads, the caliper bolts had been given a smear or two of copper grease and the were very easy to undo. Good luck, Rocky

Meaning they would have also easily undone themselves while you were driving the thing!

My advice is to NEVER put copper grease on the caliper mounting bolts - use a good thread locking compund (as heavily recommended by LR in the manual) only or leave them dry and in either case make sure they done up to the correct torque figure - the amount of LR I've seen at work with detached calipers has taught me this lesson - its a very simple thing to get wrong and can cause untold destruction if it goes into worst case scenario.

Pleased to see the job went well Tom, big snug grin on your face now I bet and a few pounds left in the bank as well!

[Les Henson]

Should be threadlock/torque seal. It's there for a very good reason.

Les.