Yostumpy Posted July 1, 2008 Share Posted July 1, 2008 Personally i like the 130/1 ton rims as they are 6.5" wide with a very good offset. I think they look the best, but would dissagree that they are not a thick as wolf rims, I'd say they are 30% heavier than std 110 rims. The mods look good if they dont have the MOCK split rim bolts. not all have these. Heres a piccie of mine . SORRY I know there a bit clean! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted July 5, 2008 Author Share Posted July 5, 2008 Mmmmhh... New Shoes!! Thanks for all your advice and opinions, I now have new shoes on the One Ten. I got rid of the alloys, 30mm spacers and almost road tyres and am now sporting these: Vast improvement from this: thanks, mad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 Looks like a real working 110CSW much better now instead of a street cruising pimp mobile Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CoolHands Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 I always liked wolf wheels like I had on mine: (now sadly sold) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sgnas Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 I thought the Disco' steels had the same backspacing as the alloys. You might want to put the spacers back on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 Just noticed your winch bumper is almost identical to mine. wheels look fine where the are, I don't like spacers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted July 5, 2008 Share Posted July 5, 2008 now instead of a street cruising pimp mobile Oi watch it sunshine nothing wrong with a set of alloys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Oi watch it sunshine nothing wrong with a set of alloys nobody down your way to notice them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 I have a slight problem with the new wheels and tyres. The larger tyre on the rear door is clamping the wiper against the glass and if I try to use it, the fuse blows. Being a bit of a thicko it took me 3 fuses to work this out. I'm not too bothered as I want to move the tyre to the bonnet anyway, but wanted to check that the bonnet mounts will take a tyre of this size. Also, I see several different types of these mounts, all slightly different and am just worried as if there is a wrong type to buy, muggins here will buy it. mad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 take the spare off & add another nut or spacer or adjust the inner nut to move the wheel further towards the rear so the sidewall clears the wiper spindle, my 255 tyres sidewall is 1/2 inch clear of the wiper arm at the closest point. hth there's only 1 bonnet mount for the 90/110/defender, make sure it comes with the internall reinforcing for the underside of the bonnet. this one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 take the spare off & add another nut or spacer or adjust the inner nut to move the wheel further towards the rear so the sidewall clears the wiper spindle, my 255 tyres sidewall is 1/2 inch clear of the wiper arm at the closest point.hth Thanks, will have a look at this next week. Another question... Should my wheel nuts be flat side against the wheel or taper against the wheel? I have them flat aganst the wheel and feel this may be wrong. Like I say, with a 50/50 chance of getting anything wrong.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
draper40 Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Mad, the nuts should be taper side into the wheel. or I'm doing it wrong! How much did you get the rims for in the end? Did you get them from the ex-Mod site? Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 Mad, the nuts should be taper side into the wheel. or I'm doing it wrong! Damn. I thought I could have one day where I wasn't oily. Just been to a Christening, had a few drinks and was asleep in me chair when my neighbour knocked on the door and said he thought I had them the wrong way round. How much did you get the rims for in the end?Did you get them from the ex-Mod site? They were £10 each from the exmod site. So all in including vat and delivery was £92 Thought that was a lot but compared to how much some people spend on alloy wheels it is nothing. mad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 always taper side to wheel,steel wheels have a matching taper on the around the stud holes & the angle of the taper increases & imparts the torque load you do them up to through to the wheel/stud & hub & loactes & centralises the wheel to the hub/studs. keeping the wheels in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Santiago Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Madowz, That tyre/rim combination looks GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Very nice Defender! Your tyres/rims looks similar to mine......, cheers Cheers SG Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Thanks, will have a look at this next week.Another question... Should my wheel nuts be flat side against the wheel or taper against the wheel? I have them flat aganst the wheel and feel this may be wrong. Like I say, with a 50/50 chance of getting anything wrong.... Taper side in, change them immediately or risk losing a wheel!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Santiago Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Madcowz, As Bogmonster said: Turn the wheel nuts around now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 Madowz, That tyre/rim combination looks GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Very nice Defender! Your tyres/rims looks similar to mine......, cheers Cheers SG more like exactly the same Discovery 1 steel 5 spoke, nearly as strong as the XD/Wolf steels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted July 6, 2008 Author Share Posted July 6, 2008 Wheel nuts were changed superfast in the rain. Sorted now and I feel a right idiot. Going back to the rear wheel (note swift change of subject). I adjusted the nuts on the holder as far forward as possible to try and get the wheel to clear the wiper and still no luck. This image shows how little of the bolt is in the wheel nut: and the wheel still fouls the wiper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 right put the spare on the carrier with the outer face facing the door, that should solve the wiper arm problem & just get 3 large diameter & fairly thick [about 3mm] plain washers to go against the wheel then fit the nuts on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 I have always used the 1 ton (2b FC) rims same as the 130 (early) rims and with265 BFG MT tubeless no probs , better lock and softens the spring rate , the ones from vass seem good value , some on my 110 pic attatch JMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 right put the spare on the carrier with the outer face facing the door, that should solve the wiper arm problem & just get 3 large diameter & fairly thick [about 3mm] plain washers to go against the wheel then fit the nuts on. If fitting the wheels reversed, the best thing to do is to put three nuts on the carrier reversed i.e. with the taper facing out towards the wheel, this then fits into the chamfer in the wheel and stops any movement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 or wot BM says ^^^ probably easier, but IIRC the inner nuts are a lot thinner than normal wheelnuts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted July 6, 2008 Share Posted July 6, 2008 I had standard steel wheel nuts on mine to hold the Disco steel spare out from the wiper, and there was enough thread left for about half the outer nuts, plenty for a spare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Madcowz Posted July 7, 2008 Author Share Posted July 7, 2008 I had standard steel wheel nuts on mine to hold the Disco steel spare out from the wiper, and there was enough thread left for about half the outer nuts, plenty for a spare Could I have a short carrier, as there is no way I can fit enough of the wheel nut on to be safe and have the wheel away from the wiper? Leaving the spare and going back to the other wheels, I drove today and they rubbed badly when turning. Now I know I can adjust the stopnuts to stop this but this thing has the turning circle of a super tanker already and I value every millimeter of lock I can get. Before I had the alloys on 30mm spacers and they hid the hub under a plastic cover. If I now put the spacers back on I fear that it may look a bit naff with the hub sitting back from the wheel. Suppose I 'wheel' have to try it and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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