Escape Posted July 23, 2008 Share Posted July 23, 2008 Since April the fuelpump of my Defender has been problematic. At first it was just a screeching noise just after starting. This happened 3 or 4 times but never lasted longer then a few minutes. Next came sporadic power loss, seeing me unable to power through deep ruts on 2 occasions and forced to ask for some help. On the last playday, I lost virtually all power and topspeed was reduced to 40mph, considerably less going uphill... Luckily I had taken the trailer, so I was spared a 3 hour trip limping home. The cause seemed rather obvious, I checked a few things to be sure and then ordered a new fuelpump. Unwilling to remove the fueltank I greatly appreciated the Tech article about replacement in situ and proceeded with cutting through the rear floor. As mine is a 90, with a smaller tank, the measurements from the 110 don't correspond. But it still gave me a good idea and it actually went quite easy. I did have to ask SWMBO for some help as I was unable press the pump in and tighten the big screwring at the same time. Much to my surprise, I found the fuel-pump fuse was also blown! I did not expect this at all, as I used the Defender to get to work and bakc today! It seems the TD5 is capable of running without a fuel pump, be it limited to about 25% power. This does explain why the pump had become completely silent lately... Now things are once again as they should be, and I'm actually looking forward to getting to work tomorrow just so I have an excuse to drive it. I took a few pictures of my handywork, along with the measurements. Maybe this would be a usefull addition to the article mentionned above. The center of the pump is 42 cm from the left wheel arch and 35 cm from the rear, pump diameter is 15 cm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ozzie1989 Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 Thanks for posting up the pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted July 24, 2008 Share Posted July 24, 2008 How do you weld the cut or get the alu into place again? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted July 24, 2008 Author Share Posted July 24, 2008 How do you weld the cut or get the alu into place again? I only had to cut through one traverse, so I'm not really concerned about loss of rigidity. I have a (veryg basis) storage system over the wheelarches to accomodate the spare wheel (a 37" doesn't fit in between) and offroad gear, so not much load on the floor anyway. You could slide a small U-profile into the cut traverse to regain some strength. As for covering the hole, I am just going to put a piece of alu or possibly PVC or similar over it and secure it in place with some screws. That way I'll have easy access next time around, which could also prouve handy for cleaning. I discovered yesterday that the pump recess is a real dirt trap. Only concern is to make sure the plate or screws don't protrude too much, 'cause my toolbox only just fits/slides under the spare. I could also cut a piece of alu to shape and put it IN the hole, secured to the traverse. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andrew Chua Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 As this problem starts to bug the Td5 owners, has anyone out there every thought of making a kit which allows one to add a hatch to access the fuel pump just like in the discovery? Like a nice aluminum cover hatch? I just hate butchering up my floor for that. If i had no choice, i'd remove the entire floor and then rivert it back. heck a lot of work, but at least i don't get a leaking floor when i decide to take it for a lil dip or when water gets thrown up from giant puddles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 Thing is guys and with all due respect to escape for his careful measurements, it's only 4 bolts and 2 nuts to drop the tank and the fuel lines are push fit. Why cut your floor up ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gazelle Posted July 25, 2008 Share Posted July 25, 2008 You could always use a boat inspection hatch such as the one in this link, but only if you are not going to have heavy traffic/weight at that location. This should be watertight. I am sure you can get aluminium ones as well, but I have not located any as yet. Martin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Escape Posted July 26, 2008 Author Share Posted July 26, 2008 Thing is guys and with all due respect to escape for his careful measurements, it's only 4 bolts and 2 nuts to drop the tank and the fuel lines are push fit. Why cut your floor up ? Mo My reasoning was simple: I once assisted with removing the fuel tank from a 110, and it was definitely not that easy (en theory, yes, in practice, you're bound to find some bolts rusted firmly in place). It looked like the 90 would be even more trouble, with the axle A-frame (modified on mine) being in the way big time. Furthermore, I had little time, no access to a vehicle lift, no one to help me, and the tank was 2/3 full. And the floor is covered with a storage system (which will have to be adapted in the near future to fit the central winch) anyway, so I was not concerned about cutting it up at all. As to get it watertight, I have just screwed in a plate of plexi I had lying around, but you could kit this off. My loadarea wasn't watertight anyway... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted June 16, 2010 Share Posted June 16, 2010 I know im dragging up an old thread but did anyone ever come up with an idea to make a neat inspection hatch for the pump? I just dont like the idea of hacking through a longitudinal AND transverse body support. I reckon if someone came up with a kit to do the job, it could be quite the little money-spinner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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