fender1234 Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 is it legal to use braided hose instead of the normal copper lines e.g could i use braided hose for brake lines on a back axle? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 I've seen rally cars do that. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 30, 2008 Share Posted July 30, 2008 Braided hose will be fine as long as it is secured correctly, doesn't leak or abrade against any other part of the vehicle - same as with steel or cupro-nickel. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fender1234 Posted July 30, 2008 Author Share Posted July 30, 2008 ok thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fender1234 Posted July 31, 2008 Author Share Posted July 31, 2008 is there any disadvantage to doing this?, the main reason for me doing it is because i dont have a flaring tool and i dont have the old pipe to know where the bends should be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 is there any disadvantage to doing this?, the main reason for me doing it is because i dont have a flaring tool and i dont have the old pipe to know where the bends should be. Be cheaper to buy a flaring tool than all that braided hose Braided is OK , I've used it in competition cars, just be aware that long unsecured runs tend to move when pressure is applied and can rub on bodywork etc so secure at more points than you would with rigid pipe. P.S. I service an Ariel Atom and all the brake lines are braided flexi hose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callum Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 i beleive mr llama 4x4 just runs braided instead of pipes. could be someting to do withthe fact he sells the stuff though and has fairly easy access to it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fender1234 Posted July 31, 2008 Author Share Posted July 31, 2008 yes i saw that llama 4x4 do hoses to order and thought that could be the way to go. Do you think it would be a nightmare trying to shape a new pipe without the old one to copy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 No fairly easy just take time rather than rush it I just remade the ones on my rear axle and they came out well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 I did all mine in TFE from ThinkAuto, the fittings cost the money not the hose so it was easier to do the whole thing in braided than make up a load of flexis, then join them to copper, then back to flexi... also makes things like removing the rear calipers a doddle as you can swing them about without worrying about the pipe. The only drawback is you can't smash TFE flat with a rock to affect a field repair, although that's countered by the fact that if you have a length of pipe and a joining fitting or two you don't need a flaring kit, and all the fittings are re-makeable. Also you'll need to think about where fittings need to rotate to be tightened, this means buying a few extra bits which can add to the cost. All in though, I'm happy with the setup - I don't like the faff of flaring copper, or the fun of trying to route it nicely without kinking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fender1234 Posted July 31, 2008 Author Share Posted July 31, 2008 yes i thought the extra flex would be useful for changing wheel bearings. i was thinking of contacting llama 4x4 as i though £13 a metre was quite reasonable and i would think the back axle wouldnt need much more than a few metres Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 TFE is less than £13/m I'm fairly sure, and the Think fittings are also pretty good value. Got it - Moquip TFE hose, -3 is ~£6/m, that's a bit better! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joe1 Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 Thats all massive £££s though. Going the standard pipe route, I remember a strandard roll of cupro nickel (about 20ft ish) costing about £10, the ends I bought were expensive as I only bought a few at £1 each (you should be able to do better than that). Moprod used to market a simple flaring tool for single and double flares (just the one 3/16 size for cars) which is a doddle to use as long as you follows the instructions with the tool (it has marked up dies that tell you when to stop flaring). I use one and it produces good flares about 98% of the time - can't remember the cost, but probably around £20-30 now - if they still sell it....... cheap as chips in comparison .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 Thats all massive £££s though. If things are standard, yes it's a bit pricey. But I was looking at needing custom flexis anyway, with adapters for the Wilwood calipers. I didn't have the truck to a point where I knew accurately what lengths I'd need the flexis to be so wasn't able to order custom from Llama, for example. Buying the tube & fittings and making my own flexis was the way that worked for me, and as I said - the ends cost the money, so cutting out the copper sections actually didn't cost anything extra and saved a load of extra joints and work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 31, 2008 Share Posted July 31, 2008 It might be worth pointing out that the route the brake pipe/hose takes does not have to be the same as the original - you can run a straight line along the top of the chassis for instance, instead of weaving around brackets, etc. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fender1234 Posted August 1, 2008 Author Share Posted August 1, 2008 ok thanks. FridgeFreezer is it fairly simple making up the hoses with unions as brakes are important and i dont want to have a go if i might risk it be dangerous? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmgemini Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 Thats all massive £££s though. Going the standard pipe route, I remember a strandard roll of cupro nickel (about 20ft ish) costing about £10, the ends I bought were expensive as I only bought a few at £1 each (you should be able to do better than that). Moprod used to market a simple flaring tool for single and double flares (just the one 3/16 size for cars) which is a doddle to use as long as you follows the instructions with the tool (it has marked up dies that tell you when to stop flaring). I use one and it produces good flares about 98% of the time - can't remember the cost, but probably around £20-30 now - if they still sell it....... cheap as chips in comparison .... I have one of those Moprod flaring tools. As does Les. I could do with a new screw bit but they are no longer made. One of the best bits of kit I bought. I tried to buy one a couple of years ago. mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 1, 2008 Share Posted August 1, 2008 ok thanks. FridgeFreezer is it fairly simple making up the hoses with unions as brakes are important and i dont want to have a go if i might risk it be dangerous? Cut the hose, slide the nut on, push the olive onto the hose (it sits in between the TFE and the braiding), push the end on firmly and then tighten the nut. Check for leaks and tighten a bit more if it weeps. Cutting the TFE cleanly helps, I was being a rougharse and using normal cable snips so they did flatten the cut end a bit and make the ferrules a bit tricky to slip on (they're a *very* close fit to the tube), also I was a bit cautious tightening the fittings up so there were more than a few leaks, mainly because I'm used to being a bit careful when tightening normal brake fittings. These are made of steel though so do stand up to more torque than you'd expect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 Fridge, What size hose did you use ? Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 -3 for brakes and -4 for clutch, it's what they recommend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted August 2, 2008 Share Posted August 2, 2008 Splendid, thanks Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fender1234 Posted August 22, 2008 Author Share Posted August 22, 2008 ok so im gonna order the bits today, does anyone know what size fittin i need, if its any help its a disco 1 back axle and its going on a 1984 90. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 You want M10x1 I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted August 22, 2008 Share Posted August 22, 2008 Like wot 'e says ^^^^^^^^^ should be M10 fine thread fittings. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fender1234 Posted August 22, 2008 Author Share Posted August 22, 2008 Just on the thinkauto website and the 3 options for the fittings are concave,convex and flat. Does it matter which one i go for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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