Fatboy Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 Evening all, I've reached the point where I'd like to start the wiring for the engine in my Series 2a. Apologies for posting in International rather than Series Forum but I know that this conversion has been done in various machines by others. I bought a CD Manual but it started to want to do weird things to my PC so its become a beermat. The Haynes Manual is a waste of time as it is not specific enough. As the photo shows, there are a surprising number of connections. There is a microswitch on the throttle position (why?). A T shaped plug towards the top right of the pump? Some sort of sensors on the fuel supply / injector side? I guess the little powered actuator at the bottom of the picture is to do with raising the revs so I won't be using that. Oh, and I forgot to ask: What do you do to turn this engine off? (I've only messed with V8's before where that bit is a bit more obvious! Any help, much appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinny Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 The wire at the back of the pump is for the stop solenoid. The double plug at the side is the CSD (cold start device) take it out and blank it off you wont need it. Ive not seen the other set of wires before (larger plug) but theyre probably for a rev counter. I posted a link to the workshop manual for the engine on the forum somewhere. It covers the rest of the engine very well but a bit vague on the engine/alternator electrics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Landowner Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 I'll look at mine tomorrow but I think there is only one wire at the pump to the stop solenoid so yours may be a newer model. AFAIR there are wires to the alternator and one to the stop solenoid, temp gauge and oil pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtydiesel Posted August 20, 2008 Share Posted August 20, 2008 Evening all,I've reached the point where I'd like to start the wiring for the engine in my Series 2a. Apologies for posting in International rather than Series Forum but I know that this conversion has been done in various machines by others. I bought a CD Manual but it started to want to do weird things to my PC so its become a beermat. The Haynes Manual is a waste of time as it is not specific enough. As the photo shows, there are a surprising number of connections. There is a microswitch on the throttle position (why?). A T shaped plug towards the top right of the pump? Some sort of sensors on the fuel supply / injector side? I guess the little powered actuator at the bottom of the picture is to do with raising the revs so I won't be using that. Oh, and I forgot to ask: What do you do to turn this engine off? (I've only messed with V8's before where that bit is a bit more obvious! Any help, much appreciated! All you need is to put power to the diesel stop pin to make it run, and at the same time put power to the soleniod with the green cover as that allows fuel to return to the tank (this needs an earth as well). kill the power to these 2 and the engine goes dead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted August 21, 2008 Author Share Posted August 21, 2008 Thanks for the help, I'll have a go with a multimeter later Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vinny Posted August 21, 2008 Share Posted August 21, 2008 Found the link http://www.bmhor.org/isuzu4j.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kim Horsevad Posted August 31, 2008 Share Posted August 31, 2008 I'm in a similar position, just finishing-off putting an Isuzu 2.8 in my Rangey.My problem is the myriad of wires coming out of the alternator. I'd usually expect to find a heavy current one for feeding the battery and a small one for the ignition light and even another one to drive a tacho, but there are a few more to go at too! I note from the engine manual that there is at least one relay connected to the alternator on the original installation. Do I need all that tatt or can I just take the heavy current wire to the battery? Can anyone advise which is the wire to the charge light and if there is a tacho output? Appreciate some help, job's stopped for this info. Normally B+ goes to battery, D+ to charge warning lamp and w+ to tacho. Some alternators have different labelling schemes - most of these can be found in the cross-reference table attached below: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted September 17, 2008 Author Share Posted September 17, 2008 As the photo shows, there are a surprising number of connections. There is a microswitch on the throttle position (why?). A T shaped plug towards the top right of the pump? Some sort of sensors on the fuel supply / injector side? I guess the little powered actuator at the bottom of the picture is to do with raising the revs so I won't be using that. It won't go..... I've put power to the Fuel cut-off solenoid (Black top) and it clicks. I've put power to the CSD wire (Green top) and it also clicks. Power / earth to the T plug does not seem to make any noise, it goes to a valve on the front right of the pump (looking from the rear of the engine, fwd). The diddy micro-switch is removed and was a sealed unit so it does nothing. I've got a fuel filter assembly from a Trooper and was not sure what to do for a fuel pump so I've used one of the DLS ones from a V8 (Looks like a Facet unit). She winds over, and over, and over..... but doesn't even hint at firing up. HELP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imspanners Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 Sorry if you've already done these, but: Have you got fuel at the pump (have you bled the air out)? Have you left the injector pipes loose at the injectors to allow the pipes to fill with diesel? Finally, have you got the supply/return pipes around the right way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted September 18, 2008 Author Share Posted September 18, 2008 I've got diesel to the pump. I didn't think about bleeding the injectors so I'll do that tonight. ... and I'm not 100% sure about the supply / return lines - I figured the one toward the rear of the pump was the supply. (to the right of the photo above.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
imspanners Posted September 18, 2008 Share Posted September 18, 2008 ... and I'm not 100% sure about the supply / return lines - I figured the one toward the rear of the pump was the supply. (to the right of the photo above.) I think they may be the wrong way around. Supply to front, return at rear, (as it's higher to allow any air in the pump to escape). I could be wrong though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted September 18, 2008 Author Share Posted September 18, 2008 I think they may be the wrong way around. Supply to front, return at rear, (as it's higher to allow any air in the pump to escape). I could be wrong though. Well you were right about the lines Front pipe is even a larger ID and the rear one which is fed via the CSD is much smaller. I've since managed to spray diesel everywhere by checking for pressure etc etc. She is puffing mist out of the turbo (no exhaust). Before I came in tonight, I put a wire to the heater plugs for a few seconds and tried again. It fired but I got such a fright at the smoke, I switched it off and the battery is too flat to try again Tomorrow... [Fingers crossed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted July 17, 2009 Author Share Posted July 17, 2009 This is going to seem a bit ridiculous - I thought I had this sussed because it ran and ticked over.... So, I got on with the rest of the wagon and it is nearly finished Body painted / wiring all done etc. Took it out of the garage to give it a bit of a run and although it seemed fine initially, I think it has been loosing power and has now got to the point where I need to slip the clutch to get it to move! It has plenty fuel, I've got transparent lines to the injector pump so I can see it has fuel but yet again, I'm a bit stumped... I've only got a +ve supply to the fuel cut-off solenoid. The CSD is still there without any connections, as is the other green topped plug a the back of the pump with the back T plug. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted July 18, 2009 Share Posted July 18, 2009 As I recall they have two fuel cutoff solenoids, you need 12v to both of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callum Posted July 18, 2009 Share Posted July 18, 2009 i only kind of skim read this as i'm heading out, so apologies if i'm repeating stuff. seeing as i've just been down to work on mine (almost back together having lost its timing belt and done the damage that such events entail) i'll give you a bit of help. t shaped one is for your rev counter. get one out of a trooper to make your like easier, but of course you can ignore it. circular one, i don't know what that does, but i've never had it connected on mine. green topped one is the cold start device, it will click, but if you take it out, you won't see it move. one below that is your stop solenoid, maybe give that a quick check over to make sure its hunky dory, a faulty solenoid ultimately caused my timing belt slip as it had to be stalled to stop when cold. your starting trouble will most likely be fuel starvation. so first thing is check all your unions are tight. last time i had the head off (only a year ago because of a broken exhaust manifold stud. a head gasket set is about £60 ) i forgot to reconnect 2 of them. the engine started and ran, but was only firing on 2 cylinders so was a little...rattly). the engine also takes a bit of effort to fully bleed. you have to leave it running for a bit and fettle the lines and stuff to get the bubbles out. i expect it you floor it at the moment it just stalls. anyway, check for no air leaks first and then be prepared for a bit of fiddling and waiting to get it fully bled. what's your extra spring for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fatboy Posted July 19, 2009 Author Share Posted July 19, 2009 Thanks for that Callum. Do you have your CSD supplied with 12V while the engine is running? Mine wasn't but I gave it a go last night and it just seemed to let a lot of fuel go back through the return hose. When I nipped that with a set of grips, the engine ran well. However, I saw some bubbles coming through the supply so will check the unions at the pickup and pump tonight if I get a chance. The extra spring was to help the throttle linkage return Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
callum Posted July 19, 2009 Share Posted July 19, 2009 Thanks for that Callum.Do you have your CSD supplied with 12V while the engine is running? Mine wasn't but I gave it a go last night and it just seemed to let a lot of fuel go back through the return hose. When I nipped that with a set of grips, the engine ran well. However, I saw some bubbles coming through the supply so will check the unions at the pickup and pump tonight if I get a chance. The extra spring was to help the throttle linkage return yeah my csd has a 12v supply when the engine is on. if i remember when i am back down to viist it next weekend to hopefully put the rockers back together and swap the timing belt and pulleys i'll take some photos for you. if you ever want to stick the rev counter in, let me konw and i'll search out the wiring/pin colours for you. its wired a bit funny, not how you might anticipate and it will save you a bit of head scratching. anyway, hope you had a bit more luck today, will be a good feeling when you're runnign and can see the fruits of your labours...and indeed drive it too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon B Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Excellent manual find here; Izuzu 2.8 Manual 400 pages worth not read it all yet but might duplex print it at work one day to compare to the other one most people have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisV8 Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 My Isuzu in the old 110 had two stop solenoids, one obvious and one secreted round the back of the pump maybe you haven't got them both powered up. Engine is a stonker they just pull and pull especially if yoy tweak the fuelling up a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brown Bear Posted September 10, 2021 Share Posted September 10, 2021 4JB1t 2.8 turbo diesel. I changed diesel pump, from 2000 parts car into my 2003. the 2003 has a black box over the fuel shut off switch which the 2000 does not. All fitted first start:Turns over ready to start, a hint of firing and the engine light stars to flash. did some research, it turns out the black box is an anti theft unit. So a rare moment of brilliance occurs. by putting the code into the radio the fuel switch turned on and engine starts. I assume will have to repeat if battery is disconnected. My issue now is clouds of blue smoke on start up. never had an issue with glow plugs before the diesel pump change over. So I am assuming its the CSD cold start device. I have never played with a diesel pump before. can I pull the CSD out the the old pump and put it in the new one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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