FridgeFreezer Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 Fridge, what would that be??? I have no idea, it's all fiddly little springs, diaphragms and needles to me - horrible things! And people say EFI is complicated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted October 23, 2008 Author Share Posted October 23, 2008 Haha, ok Fridge... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted October 23, 2008 Author Share Posted October 23, 2008 Ok I've dug out the boxes my ignition parts came in (I stored the old bits in them) and I can confirm that the dizzy cap, rotor arm, leads and coil are Lucas items - they all came in the distinct green lucas boxes. All purchased from land-rover-parts-shop.com. The plugs however are NGK BP6ES. It's cold and wet out there and I'm short on time so I haven't physically checked the items yet. Is it possible for there to be a fault with the ignition that makes it run ok on LPG but not on petrol, surely if there was an ignition fault it would run poorly on LPG as well - I always understood LPG is more reliant on a big fat spark? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 Ok I've dug out the boxes my ignition parts came in (I stored the old bits in them) and I can confirm that the dizzy cap, rotor arm, leads and coil are Lucas items - they all came in the distinct green lucas boxes. All purchased from land-rover-parts-shop.com. The plugs however are NGK BP6ES. It's cold and wet out there and I'm short on time so I haven't physically checked the items yet.Is it possible for there to be a fault with the ignition that makes it run ok on LPG but not on petrol, surely if there was an ignition fault it would run poorly on LPG as well - I always understood LPG is more reliant on a big fat spark? Correct, you would have thought that if it runs ok on lpg then it is unlikely to be an ignition problem. The symptoms sound like fuel starvation, possibly fuel pump or filter, more likely the residue of the evaporated fuel has gummed up a carb. Check you are getting a decent flow of fuel to the carbs. You could try redex in the fuel to see if it will dissolve the residue. Take the elbow off the carbs and make sure a piston isn't stuck. Last resort is strip down of the carbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 Aren't the plugs supposed to be BPR6ES? The lack of resistance could be helpful for LPG running but cause issues on petrol. Just a very random thought if all else fails. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 23, 2008 Share Posted October 23, 2008 Plug leads are what exactly please ? Then that lot is ruled out On this issue is this hot or cold, ? Remove airbox and elblows, on throttle blip does the piston move up and down, with the engine off can you liftthe pioston and does it frop when you let go ?...if not its gummed up, with the engine off look in the side of the open carb black goo = needs cleaning. Are these strombergs or SUs - If as I think SU get a bowl, undo the 3 screws on on carb mark where the top goes position wise pull off and put top and long spring and screws in bowl, pull out piston and look for muck dirt clean in petrol refit, re add oil to damper and do the same the other side DO NOT MIX THE 2 carbs bits together !!!!!? Are you sure the timing is set right / dizzy not loose ? (try turning the dizzy by hand shouldn't move) is the vacumn advance running ok shove a timing light on and check, disconnect vac hose recheck etc etc Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted October 24, 2008 Author Share Posted October 24, 2008 Thanks for you replies guys. Landmannnn, funny you should mention Redex - I chucked some in yesterday... I will take a look at the carb, check timing and vacumn advance on Sunday as I'm working all day Saturday Vehicle does this from cold and once it's reached operating temperature. I did think it might be a loose distributor throwing the timing out but it was ok temporarily after fitting the new pump - I will check to make sure anyway. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted October 24, 2008 Author Share Posted October 24, 2008 Here's the leads Nige...... http://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com/shop/.../180/761/100511 I understood genuine ignition parts were all Lucas??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul stage1v8 Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 not sure about that, some genuine parts I have got from a UK LR dealer aren't lucas Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 I've had OE Bosch leads before now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted October 24, 2008 Author Share Posted October 24, 2008 Hmmm strange.... Is it possible that Land Rover had different suppliers for different years?... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 OE Leads from Dealer are Bosch and are Blue + Grey Whats the coil ? Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted October 24, 2008 Author Share Posted October 24, 2008 OE Leads from Dealer are Bosch and are Blue + GreyWhats the coil ? Nige Sorry, was you asking what coil is on my Landie, or what is the OE coil??? Coil is a Lucas item again, if you're on about my 90... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 Lucas coil is sort of OK, Bosch coil is better Lucas leads suspect I would say buy OE Bosch too But do check the other things I mentioned maybe 1st Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 OE Leads from Dealer are Bosch and are Blue + GreyNige OE leads from the dealer are now grey -they changed relatively recently, same with dizzy cap, used to be blue, now black.... That is if you meant they are blue + grey and not blue *or* grey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 A La Colour like so : Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted October 24, 2008 Share Posted October 24, 2008 Don't forget that genuine land rover spare parts are not necessarily OE parts. Back in the days of unipart supplying genuine parts for BL cars they used to chuck anything in the boxes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted October 25, 2008 Author Share Posted October 25, 2008 Just been trying to get a plan together for tomorrow's tinkering, I think the first thing I'm going to do is have a little lookie at the spark plugs - see if there's anything abnormal there. Then I plan to check timing and vacumn advance before moving onto the carbs... I've been doing a little research on setting the timing, only done it once before - a long time ago at college so if anyones got any pointers or tips, they would be much appreciated Also, any idea what the timing should be set to? I know petrol and LPG require different timing settings so I understand it needs retarding a bit from the optimum setting for Petrol? Or am I talking a load of rubbish??... Again!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 LPG actually burns more slowly so you will need to have the timing advanced further than you would have on petrol. Best solution is to fit Megajolt and have two switchable maps, or use one of those little boxes that advances the Dizzy timing when you switch (have heard mixed reports on these but cant comment myself). Alternatively if you dont run on petrol too much you will need to advance the Dizzy so that when running on Petrol you *just* get pinking under load. I had my 2.25 setup this way and LPG worked well. I did however have to drive around the pinking when on petrol if you know what i mean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted October 26, 2008 Author Share Posted October 26, 2008 Good news! The landie now seems ok! Checked spark plugs, all ok. Didn't do the timing for reasons I'll explain in another post, plus it was pissing down and I wanted to be outside for as little time as poss! I whipped off the elbows and tried lifting the pistons by hand, they lifted easily enough and dropped back down a little reluctantly. The pistons looked a little dirty so I removed the cover, cleaned them all up, one carb at a time - they weren't excessively dirty, but were spotless by the time I finished. Completely forgot to do the check with the engine running I also gave the insides of the carb a good dowsing in carb cleaner and then blew air through the 'hole' the needle goes into. There were two other 'holes' next to it which I also blew air into, on the RHS a little carp came flying out- which makes me wonder if that had any significance?? Anyhow, put it all back together, filled the dashpots with oil and took it for a spin, seems better than ever!!! One thing though, I can't quite work out why the 90 ran ok for a while after the fitting of a new pump, if the problem was with the carb(s)???! So, a big thank you to all who posted replies, much appreciated - not only have I fixed the 90, I have learnt quite a bit in the process. Top forum, top members! Regards, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted October 26, 2008 Share Posted October 26, 2008 Just wonder if you moved a few particles of grit along with the new pump being stronger etc. and they just unluckily got lodged in the carb. You may have blown it througn now.... Fingers crossed. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted October 26, 2008 Author Share Posted October 26, 2008 Hopefully! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted October 26, 2008 Author Share Posted October 26, 2008 LPG actually burns more slowly so you will need to have the timing advanced further than you would have on petrol. Best solution is to fit Megajolt and have two switchable maps, or use one of those little boxes that advances the Dizzy timing when you switch (have heard mixed reports on these but cant comment myself). Alternatively if you dont run on petrol too much you will need to advance the Dizzy so that when running on Petrol you *just* get pinking under load. I had my 2.25 setup this way and LPG worked well. I did however have to drive around the pinking when on petrol if you know what i mean. Cheers Quagmire. Megajolt sounds interesting but there's plenty of other work I'd like to do before I start to modify the engine in any way. As mentioned before I have started a new thread on timing as it all confuses me!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spearos Posted October 30, 2008 Author Share Posted October 30, 2008 Been trying find out a little more about SU Carbs, I understand you should check the damper oil often but out of curiousity, what causes it to need topping up? I mean where does the oil go? Should it require regular top ups? Is the reason a leak? If so, what's the main culprit? Cheers, Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted October 30, 2008 Share Posted October 30, 2008 Been trying find out a little more about SU Carbs, I understand you should check the damper oil often but out of curiousity, what causes it to need topping up? I mean where does the oil go? Should it require regular top ups? Is the reason a leak? If so, what's the main culprit? Cheers, Mark Never thought about where it goes, I know some goes out the little hole but the rest must just go through the carb. I suppose it is always under negative pressure so any tiny droplets from the damping action might get sucked away. Should only need a squirt at service time though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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