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I've not got the horn!!!


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See you Saturday then Les...? :unsure::unsure::unsure::lol:

Connected up a brand new switch tonight only for it to replicate the same faults :angry: so the original switch would appear to be fine. I can also get the horn to sound if I put 12V to the correct pin on the multiplug connector in the switch loom.

Basically completely stumped now :(

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Bish -- I can also get the horn to sound if I put 12V to the correct pin on the multiplug connector in the switch loom.

is that by using the purple wire, if not, then I reckon you have either a broken wire or the connection at the back of the fusebox is broken.

remove the 2 screws [1 each side of fusebox] & pull the whole lot towards the gearlever, then you can check for broken wires/connections,

are all the multiplugs in the engine bay correctly connected ?

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Bish, from your diagram you can see that the purple wire is the most likely cuplrit -try feeding it with a 12V from the battery, at the fusebox, this also feeds:

Clock

Hazards

Interior light

It also feeds into the back of the steering column switches -I suspect this will solve your other related problems TBH.

Oh, following on from our conversation last night, I'll be around in Weston on Monday afternoon probably after 3 if you are about -I can take a looksie then if you like....? (if Saturday fails that is!)

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Cant remember if the power goes from the fusebox to a mulipin connector adjacent to the clutch master cylinder of straight to behind the dash :unsure:

Basically get you multi meter/test lamp.....then follow the power

Incoming side off fuse

Outgoing side

Multi pin in

multi pin out

Inside of stalk/feed to clock etc

Outgoing side of stalk

Horn

Start at power and go to every point until you loose the feed, then bridge that with a link, if it then works. replace that piece of cable properly.... check it works....Have Jaffa ;)

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The loom for the horn comes up from the fusebox, behind the dash, into the multi-plug - upto the horn contact, back down to multiplug then the wire for the horn goes out the bulkhead by the clutch cylinder, along the back behind the heater and down the passenger inner wing.

Assuming everything from the multiplug to the horn is ok, because it is, then the problem is between the battery and the multiplug.

As your clock isn't working either, first check the fuse - glass ones I presume? I've had probs in the past with the contacts getting grubby or not gripping the fuse enough, the fuse being grubby, or the wire inside the fuse being detached from the endcap but looking ok.

Then just get a circuit tester as mentioned previously and test you have 12v one side of the fuse, then 12v on the other. If both of those show 12v, the fault is in the wire between fuseboard and multiplug - test this by checking for voltage on the multiplug on the correct pin. If you have 12v there then the problem is in the horn switch or the multiplug. You should be able to make the horn work by bridging the pins on the multiplug with a bit of wire if the wiring is ok.

:)

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Bingo!

After a chat with my tame electrikery guru (thanks Pete!) I found a loose wire behind the fusebox. One side of the glass fuse holder had broken in the past and the previous owner (from this point forward known as "the muppet") had simply jammed the bare wire into the fuse holder and relied on the fusebox being screwed against the bulkhead to keep the wire jammed into the fuse holder. Pillock.

Of course, when we took the fuse box off to sort out the autobox wiring we spotted this seemingly spare (permanently live) wire and made it safe.

Now I know what it is everything works as it should. :rolleyes:

Just need to get a 35A blade fuse and holder and splice it in and we're good to go.

Thanks all for your help and patience with my electrical numptyness. :)

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I also discovered that the fuse should only be 10A - Mr Muppet had decided that as he had eleventy million spot lights that a phat fuse was the way to go..... shame about the wiring eh?

10A fuse now restored to service. :rolleyes:

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  • 13 years later...

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