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Winch Question


minivin
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I don't have any diagram, but it's ever so simple.

On mine, with the valves on the winch, each solenoid valve has two cables. One of the respective cables are real short and attached to a ground bolt on the winch. The other two are connected to the socket. Which also is the case for the live feed.

The hand control only has three wires, one live and the other two goes to each solenoid.

There's not much that can go wrong, only the winch going backwards when wrong solenoid is activated. If so, just shift cables.

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Wot Lars said ^^^ MM valve wiring is ever so simple. Positive battery feed goes through a 5 amp fuse into a pin on the remote, and the remote connects that feed to one or other solenoid depending on which way the switch is pushed.

2 min with a multimeter set to "annoying beep" ought to figure out the hand controller's wiring. I use a Husky remote with mine, replaced the rubbish one that came with the MM about a year ago, though since going wireless I must admit I haven't used it much! I guess that is a Warn controller by the look of it? should work fine anyway.

You just need to make sure whichever connection you use doesn't activate both solenoids at the same time

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8274 and "big boys" you know you want to. :D

Electric Winch and Mega Expensive batteries and Split Charge and Hoofing Cables and Expensive Contactor packs and Multi Alternator set-ups and burnt out components and, think I'll stick with a 4 Amp draw on the switches with a hydraulic winch ;)

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Electric Winch and Mega Expensive batteries and Split Charge and Hoofing Cables and Expensive Contactor packs and Multi Alternator set-ups and burnt out components and, think I'll stick with a 4 Amp draw on the switches with a hydraulic winch ;)

Still being young you have plenty of time to recover yourself :P

Electric winch

x2 batteries

x1 alternator

few mts of welding wire

job done

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sorry but the maths of electric winches doesn't add up with me unless you buy the best contactors for longitivity and overload current-draw capability (since even 8274's come to a stop on heavy pulls), the best motors for longitivity and power, top of the range batteries and twin alternators to keep the things charged while on a silly current draw that goes against all circuit design for such current draws, hence the invention of copper bus bars for such currents ;)

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sorry but the maths of electric winches doesn't add up with me unless you buy the best contactors for longitivity and overload current-draw capability (since even 8274's come to a stop on heavy pulls), the best motors for longitivity and power, top of the range batteries and twin alternators to keep the things charged while on a silly current draw that goes against all circuit design for such current draws, hence the invention of copper bus bars for such currents ;)

see that s the prob your thinking about the maths too much :lol:

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Tony, I had big thankyou's all round last Sunday with the Milemarker, however, everyone trooped off for a bacon roll leaving me to pull them up, it was suggested at one point they should get their sleeping bags........

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Er so.........

2x batterys - nothing special £40 each but you need one to start your engine so say £40.

1x 90 amp mondeo alternator £15 from the scrappies.

35sq mm welding earth cable - bout £4 a meter from a welding supplies place

6Hp XP motor £165

Contactor if required £60

Aint alot of money really is it compared to a milemarker?? Bear in mind solenoids and motors are usually only replaced on 2nd hand winches cause the old ones die with time.

One hell of alot less agro to fit than a milemarker!

Jon

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Electric winch - over runs, slows down as the load is applied, knackers itself after anything over a few minutes......

Hydraulic winch- constant speed, all the time. will pull an elephant or two, keeps going and going and going and going and going and going and going and going

No question if you ask me, just need to save up :angry::unsure:

Luke

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so why is it everyone is going for red top and yellow top batteries? afterall why spend a couple of hundred quid on these if they are not needed and any Vauxhall Nova battery will do? :)

See the other thread on batteries. This was argued there. Some do go for em - some don't. Tonk's lorry battery wasnt expensive.

Hydraulic winches are too slow unless powered by PTo driven pumps. But above all they're just too damn complicated and outrageously expensive if you want a really decent set up.

Jon

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See the other thread on batteries. This was argued there. Some do go for em - some don't. Tonk's lorry battery wasnt expensive.

Hydraulic winches are too slow unless powered by PTo driven pumps. But above all they're just too damn complicated and outrageously expensive if you want a really decent set up.

Jon

Ok, lets declare the batteries a draw since there is controversy in the electric winch ranks about what they are actually upto :)

Back to the cable, you say welding cable of 35mm sq, that only has a current capability of 200Amps if you buy it from VWP, a 8274 standard set-up has typically an averege current draw of 180~ Amps, with the capability to peak at 350~ Amps, thats nearly double over-load on the cable! Electrical circuits should always be designed to take into account overload situations, otherwise a mildly prolonged overload will result in damage to equipment, paticularly cable which to be honest the stuff from VWP is plastic coated cheapie stuff compared to what should be used in these sort of environments :)

I've got the switching valve, a ZF74 pump, all the pipes and reservoir (got that lot for £200 with the handset, lets say an additional battery for £40, split charge £30, extra cables and crimps £40, Mondeo Alternator and bits to fit it (ring et cetera) £30, so we got £140), a 525 winch which I am getting a hydraulic motor for (brand new for £200, so applicable to an XP in value), and as the winch cost me £250 (minus £80 for the PTO I sold and I still have the bumper (maybe £40) and the Propshafts (£40?), so say £100~), after the deductions and sumations mine has come to (ignoring bumper) £500. With the XP and the batteries and bits (£340~), would you get an 8274 for £160?. It's come out cheaper for me and will have the same power, just slower for the set-up as it is, and it satisfies my requirements of good design and not stressing components

He he :P

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As to the cable - not so. 35sq mm earth cable to BS 638 is rated to carry 410 amps at 30% duty. More than adequate give the very low duty cycles of electric winches in general. 225 amp is rated at 100% duty. Given you've generally only pulling maximum amps for relatively short periods its not a problem.

Well I had twin batteries and a decent alternator anyway. Running big kenlowes etc its a must.

Winch cost me £300, XP motor £165. Winch came with brand new solenoids so no need for contactors, and it also came with a 4.6Hp bowmotr thats now gone on the rear winch as the motor on that was poorly.

On that basis theres not alot in it, but as I said earlier, the ZF pumped set ups are too slow, and the pumps are also limited by how much power you can transmit into them via a rubber V belt without it slipping.

How bigs your reservoir? You need a big reservoir and ideally a cooler aswell otherwise I've seen the fluid boil in these set ups when worked hard! A PAS reservoir is nowhere near big enough - you need more like 5 gallons!

Pass your driving test then we'll see who's works better in the mud eh? ;)

Jon

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As to the cable - not so. 35sq mm earth cable to BS 638 is rated to carry 410 amps at 30% duty. More than adequate give the very low duty cycles of electric winches in general. 225 amp is rated at 100% duty. Given you've generally only pulling maximum amps for relatively short periods its not a problem.

Well I had twin batteries and a decent alternator anyway. Running big kenlowes etc its a must.

but what is always quoted, 35mmsq, who is always quoted, Vehicle Wiring Products, not everyone knows this fact and can easily fall into the trap of thinking the welding cable from VWP is best when actually it's tripe if you get the wrong stuff. 225Amps at 100% duty is still close to that which the average current is, put the feed and return cables next to each other and the heating effects mean that the rating of the cable is reduced proportional to the number of bundled cables and atmospheric temperature aroudn them. Most of this cabling around the front goes through the engine bay past the exhaust area et cetera, under the footwells where the hot air is ducted, if all these factors were taken into account your "100% duty" is reduced down further from the theoretical room temperature "suspended in air" datum that the cable is quoted at.

Winch cost me £300, XP motor £165. Winch came with brand new solenoids so no need for contactors, and it also came with a 4.6Hp bowmotr thats now gone on the rear winch as the motor on that was poorly.

On that basis theres not alot in it, but as I said earlier, the ZF pumped set ups are too slow, and the pumps are also limited by how much power you can transmit into them via a rubber V belt without it slipping.

How bigs your reservoir? You need a big reservoir and ideally a cooler aswell otherwise I've seen the fluid boil in these set ups when worked hard! A PAS reservoir is nowhere near big enough - you need more like 5 gallons!

Same price draw as well now :)

V belt if an issue, as certain engines have to have the pulley modified for the extra PAS fitting, poly V belt? transmits more power than a standard V belt, problem pretty much solved, depending on whether you want to spend some money getting a PV adapter made to go on the engine pulley and buying and modding a PV pulley off of a modern car alternator, but then most of peoples winch installations are DIY so not far removed from reason?

Reservoir is an issue at present I am looking into, but nothing out of reason to solve :)

Pass your driving test then we'll see who's works better in the mud eh? ;)

Jon

Would I have to fill the back up with a couple of pallets of concrete to even out the weight difference between vehicles first ;)

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going back to the topic, have you got the controller to work?

haven't looked at it yet, just taken all the pipes off the solenoid valve to clean it and fit a connector on the leads and check it out, may know early next week when I have spare time (as in not at work :) )

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