My new Series 3!

[beko1987]

Well, drove up to stoke for 10am, and bought the series 3 I was talking about in the insurance thread. Engine is sweet, starts first turn and idles almost silently. She was pulling 80 (speedo was all over the place but stopped at 80 so presume that's the top speed) down the hills on the M40. Bodywork is sound, chassis has some surface rust and a few flaky bits in non important places. The Harvey Frost winch is a wicked piece of kit, hope I get to play with it a bit more before I angle grind it off the chassis and sell it!

However, there are a fair few BAD points! The steering is very out. My buddy who drove her home was almost scared, very vague. The brakes are borderline illegal, pressing the pedal at all causes the whole vehicle to weave and pull in both directions and the gearbox is very clunky at changing, sometimes not going into gear first time (however that could be because me buddy is used to an LT77 box)

We're gonna have the wheels off tomorrow to check the general condition, I hope it's just buggared brake pads! Steering I will research (saw the steering relay thread just now) and I need to weed the windows!

Talking of windows, all the material in the slides has completely had it, is wet and growing various plantation. How difficult/expensive is it to completely renovate them. The glass is fine, but put new running tracks and seals in? Talking the door windows and the sliding one on the cab back.

The washer jets don't work either!

She has 2 Saab seats, the drivers one has caved in completely, but I consider that a bonus, means I sit lower down so am more comfortable. The fuel guage is useless as well, always on empty, even after putting £80 to get home. The 'BEAM' light doesnt work either, but I havent checked the bulb in it yet.

Think that's everything. Going to be LOTS more random landrovery questions to come I'm afraid, but for now, some pictures...

http://www.flickr.com/photos/solex/

There are some pics of my friends 90 (same bloke who drove landy home!)

[rtbarton]

Nice one!

[Les Henson]

I agree - tidy-looking truck.

Les.

[88inchthing]

Yes indeed a lovely rare series 3, seems a real shame to take out the Harvey Frost. But thats only my opinion and it's yours to do with as you please.

[beko1987]

To be honest I'm not 100% certain about taking the Harvey Frost out either, bit I'll be using this landy to learn to drive in, and I just feel it'll be a hindering experience, let alone trying to get into car parks et.c. If it wasnt half welded to the chassis I'd just unbolt it and store it in the garage.

Went out in her tonight, with another friend driving. Went to a house party, where it was the centre of attention, and upon leaving at half 4, with the choke out she started fine first time!

The fuses have had it though, the indicators conked out halfway through the drive, and with a quick wiggle of the fuses are working again. Going to buy new ones all round tomorrow, and see what starts working! Power to the radio would be nice!

[ThreeSheds]

Wiggling bullet fuses was an almost weekly task when I had my S1 - it's just a bad design IMHO, but I think it's the fuse holder which is as fault not the actual fuses. The modern blade type with wiping contacts are far better - but nowhere near as much fun

<Edited to add: Just thought - are SIII fuses bullet? If not then sorry for the misinformation.>

Nice car BTW - welcome to Landrovery! (BTW I love your innovative use of the word 'plantation' )

Rog

p.s. It's a personal thing, but I love the 'huge air filter' (in the photos) and I think that they are hugely effective too. I'd keep that myself - although I probably wouldn't have when I was your age

[disco2hse]

That is one great looking truck you have there

It would be good with a 3/4 canvas on it, you already have the channels in place.

The Harvey Frost winch is a wicked piece of kit, hope I get to play with it a bit more before I angle grind it off the chassis and sell it!

Even if you remove it, I'd keep it. It will add to the value of the truck later.

However, there are a fair few BAD points! The steering is very out. My buddy who drove her home was almost scared, very vague.

Well, that is a fairly relative issue. There will always be some play but it should be no more than about 15 degrees (that's 7.5 degrees either side of centre).

If the play is in the steering box (it's out of adjustment) it is pretty easy to tighten up, but you should also check the rest of the steering gear to make certain bushes are ok, etc.

Useful posting here: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f38/series-3...ment-59017.html

The brakes are borderline illegal, pressing the pedal at all causes the whole vehicle to weave and pull in both directions and the gearbox is very clunky at changing, sometimes not going into gear first time (however that could be because me buddy is used to an LT77 box.

The brakes are never the best in Series III's, not when compared with fancy-schmancy disc brakes. But they probably need to be properly bled and and checked for cylinder travel and adjusted correctly. The gearbox isn't always smooth but is something you get used to. I always tend to make the gear change in two distinct motions, move it out of gear, then move it into gear and be gentle, it doesn't need to be forced. You will feel it slide out and in to gear.

Talking of windows, all the material in the slides has completely had it, is wet and growing various plantation. How difficult/expensive is it to completely renovate them. The glass is fine, but put new running tracks and seals in? Talking the door windows and the sliding one on the cab back.

Assuming you are talking about the side windows, you can get the channeling quite easily. Provided the door tops aren't rusty you can remove the glass and replace the channels.

This should be of some use: http://www.lrfaq.org/Series/FAQ.S.window_channels.html

She has 2 Saab seats, the drivers one has caved in completely, but I consider that a bonus, means I sit lower down so am more comfortable. The fuel guage is useless as well, always on empty, even after putting £80 to get home. The 'BEAM' light doesnt work either, but I havent checked the bulb in it yet.

Sitting down low is not always a good thing in an off-road vehicle. You need to be able to have clear visibility. Remember this is not a low-rider. And Saab seats?? I prefer the old Landy seats, they are surprisingly comfortable after a long day in the rough stuff and they give pretty good back support, considering. I find seats that make you slouch more of a problem because you are forever having to pull yourself upright so you can see.

The faulty fuel gauge is possibly either a poor connection to the gauge, the gauge itself, or the sender in the fuel tank. In any event fixing is pretty easy. Make sure you actually have high beam

From your Flickr notes:

Looks like a bodged up radio to me

Yeah, look. I wouldn't be so sure. It only has 10's of thousands of km's, not hundreds. Mine just went past 30000, but that is actually 230000 km.

The switches are IIRC, clockwise from top left, dash board lights, park/head lights (two settings, one click gives park and two give head lights), windscreen wipers (same as lights, two speeds, but this should be a toggle you twist and push for squirters), and heater fan (also two speed).

You can identify your vehicle here: http://www.lrfaq.org/FAQ.3.Chassis_Numbers.html

The large air filter is there for a good reason and I would not change it.

Cheers

Alan

[beko1987]

Wow, loads of great info there!

The Saab seats will be replaced with 3 normal series seats!

The 'BEAM' indicator on the dashboard does work, the fusebox needs some attention. We lost indicators Sat night, until a good wiggle/remove and wipe fuseo n coat operation restored indicators and beam dash light to order! So some box work there!

This weekend myself and a friend, along with his Landy serive agent uncle are going to take the wheels off and inspect the brakes. He also wants to cut off and buy the Harvey Frost of me and overhaul and keep it, to which I have no problems with.

Found 2 new inertia series belts on ebay for £25 each BIN, and the middle lap belt for £12.99 so will be purchasing those ASAP!

Landy is currently parked at the work car park due to lack of weekday space at home so can't do too much work this week, but I think fusebox seatbelts and brakes are the first priority!

RE the canvas post, was delighted when I saw the hooks and holes already in place! Means an easy pickup cover, or a soft top!

Am I right in thinking that if I take the cab back, roof and door tops off I would be legally allowed to drive it as an easy soft-top? Thinking of an easy winter conversion. Once I get the back window working then people sitting in the back won't be lonley, and my friend (person above) is throwing out his 2 rear 90 bench seats in a few weeks when he replaces them with 4 individual seats, so Will put those in the back of me truck, once the winch has gone and buy 4 more lap belts.

[FridgeFreezer]

Nice truck!

As has been said, Series steering & brakes are a different experience, if you've not driven a Series before you might want to try driving someone else's before you decide yours is not right. Trying to force Series systems to conform to modern expectations can drive people to madness.

The Series 3 club sell plastic window channel that won't rot or collect foliage, well worth doing IMHO. You'll need a load of fiddly little screws and a reasonable amount of swearing to fit it all, although Focus DIY sell the exact screws you need

From your dashboard picture, some tightwad has replaced the wash/wipe switch with a carp halfords toggle switch. The genuine one is about £30.

I'd replace the fuses with blade type, you should be able to migrate the connections to a universal blade fuse holder fairly easily. The glass ones are rubbish, and the holder gets looser with time leading to regular fuse-wiggling. I'd rip that radio and it's horrible wiring out, it's more likely to catch fire than anything from the looks of it.

You can unbolt your truck cab and replace with a full soft-top very easily. Just need a canvas & some sticks.

[beko1987]

Nice truck!

As has been said, Series steering & brakes are a different experience, if you've not driven a Series before you might want to try driving someone else's before you decide yours is not right. Trying to force Series systems to conform to modern expectations can drive people to madness.

The Series 3 club sell plastic window channel that won't rot or collect foliage, well worth doing IMHO. You'll need a load of fiddly little screws and a reasonable amount of swearing to fit it all, although Focus DIY sell the exact screws you need

From your dashboard picture, some tightwad has replaced the wash/wipe switch with a carp halfords toggle switch. The genuine one is about £30.

I'd replace the fuses with blade type, you should be able to migrate the connections to a universal blade fuse holder fairly easily. The glass ones are rubbish, and the holder gets looser with time leading to regular fuse-wiggling. I'd rip that radio and it's horrible wiring out, it's more likely to catch fire than anything from the looks of it.

You can unbolt your truck cab and replace with a full soft-top very easily. Just need a canvas & some sticks.

Some of the toggle switches are on their last legs. The washer jet one did work but was very loose nad bendy. It now doesnt work, which atm I'm putting fown to the fuse or switch itself. Will find the part number at some point and buy a new one!

The main job on the list is the brakes. I found these:

http://www.paddockspares.com/pp/SERIES/Bra...yl_engine).html

Can someone with knowledge confirm to a newbie that these will do the job? I'm going by the assumption that the whole lot will need/would be better renewed than leaving it! I have no service history with the truck at all!

If that won't work does anyone know where I can go? (nothing rude!)

Parked it in the work car park for now (just over the road from my house and safer) and got loads of attention. Loving it last night it was parked with my mates 90 and mine got more looks! Did my first landrover wave to a 110 last night as well whilst taking it around the block with my stepdad.

Cheers.

[rtbarton]

Don't keep it too much in the public gaze - it's just the sort of thing Pikeys will have away.

[FridgeFreezer]

The plastic bodied switches are not genuine and are the sort of utter toss sold in Halfords. Either buy genuine ones (which aren't expensive) or buy decent ones from vehicle wiring products. The ones with the LED in the end are rather bling B)

The wash/wipe switch should be a rotary one (twist for on/off) which you push in to wash the screen.

[beko1987]

Don't keep it too much in the public gaze - it's just the sort of thing Pikeys will have away.

True. Car parks out of public view, as well as being security patrolled and CCTV everywhere. At night the security van drives around the whole industrial estate so that's a deterrant. Plus most people at work know it's there as well. My boss said it looks like something out of Jeepers Creepers! Once I'm insured to drive it then I can be a bit more flexible about parking it on the drive to work on it but long term and short term it is fine there!

Plus I can look out of my window and admire it!

[beko1987]

The plastic bodied switches are not genuine and are the sort of utter toss sold in Halfords. Either buy genuine ones (which aren't expensive) or buy decent ones from vehicle wiring products. The ones with the LED in the end are rather bling B)

The wash/wipe switch should be a rotary one (twist for on/off) which you push in to wash the screen.

That could be why the wash part doesnt work! I may have knocked a wire off it or something. When I come to that part, which may be sooner than later I'll but genuine switches and wire them in one by one. Gathering by the fact that the wipe and wash switch are different it's been bidged about with so may need help deciphering the wiring diagram that wil be in the haynes manual I will be buying in due course. Also want to find out where all the wires go that are on the dash. There was a rear worklight on the back that I took off and insulated the wires off as it was broken. Found another non broken spot in the cubby box so will wire that up and see what happens, or put a tail light through the wire and see what happens. From what I can gather the wire runs through the main loom, but I havent looked that closely TBH!

Going to have the dash top off hopefully this week so will have a better look. Just had a £75 windfall so will be buying the brake overhaul kit and fitting that this weekend hopefully so that's a bonus as well!

[FridgeFreezer]

Rather than the Haynes Book Of Lies, I'd go for the "green bible" - the Land Rover workshop manual, it's not quite so friendly but it is marginally more accurate, and for your purposes it has a complete diagram of the back of the dashboard with all the wiring colours and where they connect. If you can stretch to it the white parts catalogue is actually the most useful thing once you're confident enough that don't need to read about what you should be doing, it has exploded diagrams of every part of the vehicle to the last nut and bolt with a part number for everything. Very handy for seeing how things come apart, and also to ensure you get the right bits from parts people!

[beko1987]

Rather than the Haynes Book Of Lies, I'd go for the "green bible" - the Land Rover workshop manual, it's not quite so friendly but it is marginally more accurate, and for your purposes it has a complete diagram of the back of the dashboard with all the wiring colours and where they connect. If you can stretch to it the white parts catalogue is actually the most useful thing once you're confident enough that don't need to read about what you should be doing, it has exploded diagrams of every part of the vehicle to the last nut and bolt with a part number for everything. Very handy for seeing how things come apart, and also to ensure you get the right bits from parts people!

I found something like that on this forum somewhere, in a stickied post, is that the one? Will print it out if so! May still buy the Haynes to show me where to find various bits and bobs but as long as the info is there in the workshop manual I should be ok.

[Snagger]

Don't buy the brake parts from Paddocks - they'll be Britpart, which have a terrible reputation for swarf filled leaky cylinders, oval drums and faulty shoes. Make sure you buy Lucas/GKN hydraulics and Delphi or Lockheed shoes. Goodridge make good brake hose4s which offer a big upgrade over the originals. Britpart seem OK for bearings, sttering rod ends and electrical parts, though.

[FridgeFreezer]

Britpart seem OK for bearings, sttering rod ends and electrical parts, though.

I wouldn't be so sure, I've never had anything from Britpart that has lasted more than about 5 minutes. I can't think of a single thing I'd trust them to manufacture.

[beko1987]

Don't buy the brake parts from Paddocks - they'll be Britpart, which have a terrible reputation for swarf filled leaky cylinders, oval drums and faulty shoes. Make sure you buy Lucas/GKN hydraulics and Delphi or Lockheed shoes. Goodridge make good brake hose4s which offer a big upgrade over the originals. Britpart seem OK for bearings, sttering rod ends and electrical parts, though.

Fair enough! Anyone got any reputable links for said brakes etc?

Going to take the heater levers off tonight and see if I can unfreeze them. I need to sort the fuses out as well but need a wiring diagram so I know where to find the fuse for it!

[sotal]

I agree with the brakes, britpart are rubbish, last time I needed some shoes I went to the local landy place and they could only sell me britpart - had to avoid those and ended up going to A-Z spares (general spares place) which had the correct ones on the shelf for about the same money as the britpart ones, they've been great - just can't remember the make (red box though)

I've had a few britpart bits which have been fine:

Full Exhaust System for Series - great value for money

Windscreen Seal

4wd/2wd Red Knob

Replacement Footwells/Bulkhead Repair panels

I would never trust britpart with anything that matters, bearings are a definite no-no, anything with an oil seal seems best avoided, liftpumps only last 2 minutes, and from some of the pics I've seen on here crossmembers etc look awful.

[beko1987]

I agree with the brakes, britpart are rubbish, last time I needed some shoes I went to the local landy place and they could only sell me britpart - had to avoid those and ended up going to A-Z spares (general spares place) which had the correct ones on the shelf for about the same money as the britpart ones, they've been great - just can't remember the make (red box though)

I've had a few britpart bits which have been fine:

Full Exhaust System for Series - great value for money

Windscreen Seal

4wd/2wd Red Knob

Replacement Footwells/Bulkhead Repair panels

I would never trust britpart with anything that matters, bearings are a definite no-no, anything with an oil seal seems best avoided, liftpumps only last 2 minutes, and from some of the pics I've seen on here crossmembers etc look awful.

Would the part numbers on the above paddocks link be the right ones? When you said said red box I remembered me mate bought some pads in a red box from Dingo Croft in Wycombe, if I had part numbers I could see what price they did them for.

Would I need all the bits in the paddocks link, is it advisable to replace everything or would I get away with the pads?

[FridgeFreezer]

You can usually buy genuine from Paddocks, it's just that you have to tell them very clearly that you want genuine bits and not sh*tpart.

[beko1987]

You can usually buy genuine from Paddocks, it's just that you have to tell them very clearly that you want genuine bits and not sh*tpart.

Thought I'd bump this thread up again rather than start a new one, been playing with the air cleaner tonight, and what a transformation a hot soapy bucket of water, some white spirit lots of rags and some elbow grease makes! Will hammerite it at some point.

http://s456.photobucket.com/albums/qq288/beko1987/