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Jammy123

Welding Chassis

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Hi,

I have a small hole (maybe the size of a small apple) in my front nearside chassis outrigger. It passed through the MOT, but I want to weld it up. Will 1 or 1.6mm mild steel plate be suitable as I guess it will act only as a patch?

Cheers

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Hi,

I have a small hole (maybe the size of a small apple) in my front nearside chassis outrigger. It passed through the MOT :o

Cheers

you've done it now :blink:

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1) It shouldn't have really passed MOT like that....

2) 'Only a patch' -I hope this doesn't describe something that's just going to cover the hole, rather than repair it to original or greater strength as the MOT manual requires....

3) Use 2mm or more to repair it, and cut all the old rust out before hand or the new patch will fall off inside of 2 years...

4) I like using lots of full stops :P

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I take it you mean the bulkhead outrigger? Bowie is right - it should have failed the MOT. There's considerable load on the outrigger, so putting 1.6 bean tin metal on there is much too thin.

Minimum 2-mil, but thicker is better, and go right back to good metal, which will most likely make the hole considerably bigger. Bash it with a hammer - it gets scary then:)

Les.

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it should have failed an mot i think and if the rest of it is solid it is worth welding. if you can't do it yourself it would be better to get a new outrigger put on because if you patch it will rust through in a year or 2 and it will not cost that much more for a new one. hope this helps

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Replacing a 90/110 bulkhead outrigger is very difficult. Unlike a series motor, which just butts up against the outside of the chassis rail - they go onto the top of the rail as well, so welding all around the edge is considerably more awkward.

Les.

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You mean - "take a disc cutter to the footwell floor, bend it up out of the way, then weld the new outrigger on. Bash the bent floor back down and weld the cuts back together - sortid!"

Les :P

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:D

Last time it was "shear all the screws that have useable heads and spend ages removing those that don't"

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Yeah it is the bulkhead outrigger. It was MOT'd in a LR Dealership... :unsure:

I will grind down the rust and cut out any rusty bits then I shall weld it myself probably use a bit of 5mm mild?

Cheers

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Last time it was "shear all the screws that have useable heads and spend ages removing those that don't"

Too late now - BODGER :rtfm:

Les :)

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I have 're-assessed' it, and the only rust is on the back of the front outrigger, from the centre of it and outwards (towards the kerb). So i shall cut out section, and make the new shape out of 3mm mils steel.

Will be a bit tricky getting the welder in the corner but I dont want to take the floor up etc!

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Pulling the floor up is easy enough as long as you are prepared to sacrifice the screws - just use an angle grinder cutting disc on any stubborn screws and replace with some shiny news ones.

Agree with the above that it's not easy to replace this outrigger, but is a pretty easy shape to patch.

However, check that the piece of chassis section you can access through the hole in the bottom of the outrigger is sound. If so, then you're fine, but if not, I would suggest replacing the outrigger and repairing the chassis rail.

A 9" angle grinder helps loads with almost all chassis repairs if you are cutting off an old outrigger/x-member etc.

I have 're-assessed' it, and the only rust is on the back of the front outrigger, from the centre of it and outwards (towards the kerb). So i shall cut out section, and make the new shape out of 3mm mils steel.

Will be a bit tricky getting the welder in the corner but I dont want to take the floor up etc!

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My friends 110 needed a new offside bulkhead outrigger for the MOT as it was rusted. Instead of repairing he went to Paddock's and bought a new one. I used an angle grinder to remove the old one and another friend used his MIG welder to attach the new one, and it flew through the MOT with this. It did help that the welder works for the Suzuki dealership in Colchester and is a master welder...

It is easier to remove the floor pan, but (as mentioned above) you will need new screws, and as far as I can tell, the floor pan is not welded down, just screwed with about 10 beefy bolts.

For the cost of a new outrigger (about £30-35) you might as well replace the whole thing and it will last for years and years, better than a patch!

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G'Day

I was looking at a mates Defender 90, 300tdi chassis this afternoon here in Malaysia.

The LH outside chassis rail at the bottom is eaten out from the rear shock mount to adjacent the battery. The rest seems to be ok.

Can you buy repair sections for the chassis rails? I seen all the other bits but not chassis sections.

I don't think a new chassis is an option as they would class a chassis as a car then the people wanting money for doing nothing get excited......

Regards

Mike

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