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Rear Xmember ideas please


Tonk

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after last sunday when my front plasma snapped when i was winching up a hill, a tree kindly stopped me on my way back down, its damaged the rear Xmember a bit, its still usable but i'm going to get on and chop it off and make my own :P

slight rehash at the back coming on then, going to drop my winch down into it, do away with the drop pin recovery point and fit 2 of my swivelly type ones instead. am going to make it out of 5 or 6mm plate and completely box it in round the back so it doesn't fill up with crud.

any other ideas anyone got that i can incorporate into making one which has worked for them?

TIA

M

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Hi-lift jacking points

Twin chainsaw holders - so the trees don't stop you next time :P

Winch rope holders (motor-cycle foot-pegs)

Drain holes - because some mud will get in

Was it piggy that had something on the ends of the crossmember for rope guiding on 90degree+ pulls ?

One of your loverly fairleads B)

A nice coat of paint - want me to get out my colour charts ?

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i was going to flat the ends off and add hi-lift stops as per as i do on front bumpers;)

half an idea to shorten tub by 2" and move xmember to suit, thus gaining a shorter vehicle and more time to contemplate before the impact :rolleyes::lol:

drain holes inline with chassis rails is a good idea, cos theres always mud in there

hmmmm corner guides, anyone some pics? paul?

i have one of my fairleads on the back already, i'm sure this will get put to use :P

i think black is the order of the day, sheen level might keep me guessing for a while though :rolleyes:

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if i filled it with helium would it make it lighter? :D

If you filled it with nothing, it would be lighter still... (Vacuum) ;)

Can you not seal it and provide the necessary support/structure externally - do the chassis legs REALLY need to enter the box?

And if they do, it could still be sealed if you capped off the end of the chassis legs before inserting them?

Al.

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This is how I made mine, with stuff that was lying around

Chopped the chassis off in front of the spring hangers

Got some small RSJ that just slid into the chassis

Got some 1/8" plate and plated the RSJ to form a reinforced box section

Cut 3 holes, about 1" diameter in each of the four chassis walls

Slid the plated box section into the chassis. (The plating only went as far as the chassis ends)

Welded round the holes and round the end of the chassis

Now have two pieces of RSJ pointing towards the ground

Cut a V notch in the top, heated the bottoms to red heat and jacked the ends up until they were horizontal

Welded the V Notch

Fabricated the member itself from 1/4" angle & plate

Welded the original spring hangers back

The member itself was open rather than a box so it was easy to clean.

Finally fitted a Perkins 4203 behind the front bumper to move the damm thing!!

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i'm sure i can seal the outrigger parts but the inside of the chassis rails will always fill up with mud/water, this must need a drain hole to get out somewhere?

Bottom of the chassis rail? I see no reason to drain it all into your nice new crossmember...? :huh:

Anyway, t'was but a thought.

Al.

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i was going to flat the ends off and add hi-lift stops as per as i do on front bumpers;)

half an idea to shorten tub by 2" and move xmember to suit, thus gaining a shorter vehicle and more time to contemplate before the impact :rolleyes::lol:

drain holes inline with chassis rails is a good idea, cos theres always mud in there

hmmmm corner guides, anyone some pics? paul?

i have one of my fairleads on the back already, i'm sure this will get put to use :P

i think black is the order of the day, sheen level might keep me guessing for a while though :rolleyes:

Shortening's anice idea, 88s have a longer overhang than 90s. Will you still have space for the spare, though?

Your ideas sound pretty much there, though. I like the idea of the holes too. They don't need to be big, just enough to get a drain clearing attachment in. The only problem is how to get rid of the big lumps. Last time I did mine there were some surprisingly large stones in there :huh:

Oh, one thing you could do is only do a central xmember so you've got less bodywork to damage (ie take the top of the arches straight back to the end of the tub and then cut at approx 45* down to the bottom of the tailgate). Sorry its a bad description, I don't really feel very with it this morning....

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got any pics of finished member? :o

so u shortened your vehicle? chopped off chassis infront of hangers and then welded them hangers underneath the xmember?

No, I kept the same dimensions. In fact the cross member extended beyond the tub by about 6" and a NATO hook was fixed to that.

Unfortunately I don't have any digital pics, I may have some paper ones - I did this before the PC was invented, let alone Windows.

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