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Sorry, me again, bonnet mount spare wheel


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91 110 CSW.

Rear door mount spare is going to get in the way of a caravan stabiliser.

Option one: Bonnet mount, like they used to. Is this feasable with a standard bonnet, the series bonnet had a recess.

Option two, the roof rack. Easy to do, but CofG up, restricting carriage of more up there.

Discuss.

Cheers

David

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I found a couple a while back when looking into bonnet mounts for my TD5

I gave up on it because the 35" would block half the windscreen :)

Bonnet mount 1

Bonnet mount 2 (scroll down a bit)

There is properly more out there, but I hope it helps.

I though about that, although mine has modulars, the spare is the standard steel, so shouldn't block too much vision.

Thanks for the Urls

Cheers

David

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I am sure you know the supplier and part number of by heart, please.

Cheers

David

The Blanchards kit is the sttandard fit LR parts, best to get it as a kit rather than lots of seperate bits, the Difflock linked carrier is neat, as it attaches to the bonnet front/lock pin & bonnet hinges so shouldn't need any holes drilled in bonnet, it also keeps the weight of the spare off the bonnet skin.

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The Blanchards kit is the sttandard fit LR parts, best to get it as a kit rather than lots of seperate bits, the Difflock linked carrier is neat, as it attaches to the bonnet front/lock pin & bonnet hinges so shouldn't need any holes drilled in bonnet, it also keeps the weight of the spare off the bonnet skin.

I was just going to unbolt the one from the rear door and bolt it to the bonnet, but I have seen the error of my ways. I will add something to my wants list, although this truck could end up as expensive as a new one.

Cheers

David

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I would suggest you do two things when you mount the spare on the bonnet.

Some series two bonnet clips.

Use the MOD strap over the spare wheel.

Both stop the bonnet and spare shaking about.

As for the bonnet mount.

I had the Defender mount on mine. What a pain to take the wheel off especially when the wingtops and bonnet were hot. So I swapped for a full MOD Series therr/ Lightweight one. Then had straps made with hooks on all straps.

Should I take the spare off I don't have to worry about the staps.

The rubbers on the MOD mount are thinner than the Defender ones.

mike

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Update.

I looked at all the bonnet mount options, but decided that as Defenders need the bonnet open fairly regularly, I was going to get sore lifting the spare wheel too.

There is a rear step ladder fitted, so now the wheel is on the roof rack, secured by a ratchet strap. I have greased the ratchet mechanism before putting it up there.

It was a struggle, but I could get it up there on my own.

I have removed the door spare wheel carrier, is there a standard plate available to cover the holes or do I make my own?

Cheers

David

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If you caravan stabiliser is an ALKO, then there is a special handle you can get to clear the spare wheel ;)

Yup, and you don't even need it, the standard handle can be removed and used. My problem is that its not my caravans I am towing, they belong to customers, so i can't be going round removing their AKS 3004 handles.

Thanks anyway

David

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I would suggest you do two things when you mount the spare on the bonnet.

Some series two bonnet clips.

Use the MOD strap over the spare wheel.

Both stop the bonnet and spare shaking about.

As for the bonnet mount.

I had the Defender mount on mine. What a pain to take the wheel off especially when the wingtops and bonnet were hot. So I swapped for a full MOD Series therr/ Lightweight one. Then had straps made with hooks on all straps.

Should I take the spare off I don't have to worry about the staps.

The rubbers on the MOD mount are thinner than the Defender ones.

mike

The bonnet hook idea is good because the weight of the spare can prevent the bonnet popping up when you pull the release handle, making opening the bonnet a two-person job. This was the case for me until recently, but my release cable has become stiffer and doesn't spring back all the way, so I can now pull it to release the catch and then go out and lift the bonnet (perhaps the weight of the wheel has damaged the locking mechanism). Using the two hooks (not just used on SII, but on the SI, including the centre steer prototype and all MoD LRs from Si to Wolfs and on also the Camel Trophy 110s) would allow you to remove the standard bonnet catch so that you can open the bonnet single handedly more easily (or you can make a holdin-open device to keep the hanle pulled inside while you go out to lift the bonnet).

I found the standard Defender rubbers too tall for use in conjunction with a 7" rim with 235s - it cut too much of my forward vision, and I'm 6'. helena may struggle more than me being 5'4". However, by cutting them down in length and reattaching the "nipples" with black PU adhesive (extremely strong glue), I have lowered the spare to sit justa few mm clear of the bonnet and reclaim about 3/4" of the view. It's still in the way a bit, but doesn't cause any trouble.

Mike, I'd be interested to see your modified mounting and strap system - the problem I now have with the standard Defender kit is that having stuck neoprene sheeting to the underside of the retaining ring to prevent damage to the wheel centre's paint, the neopren has compresed and stuck with time and will probably rip the paint away from the wheel. A clampless solution would prevent a reoccurence...

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I found the standard Defender rubbers too tall for use in conjunction with a 7" rim with 235s - it cut too much of my forward vision, and I'm 6'. helena may struggle more than me being 5'4". However, by cutting them down in length and reattaching the "nipples" with black PU adhesive (extremely strong glue), I have lowered the spare to sit justa few mm clear of the bonnet and reclaim about 3/4" of the view. It's still in the way a bit, but doesn't cause any trouble.

I have a very early Defender spare wheel mount bonnet on mine-the galv 'dustbin lid type' as fitted to SIII's. These sit a lot lower than the later style 'MOD' and improve forward visibility. They wont take a Wolf rim though as standard because of the increased offset.

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Re your polished ali plate on rear , you might be able to see yourself as well , in court for causing dazzle to other road users, esp if it happens to be a following police car not a good idea JMHO

Ok, understand where you're coming from, but whats the difference between that and a Chrome rear step bumper that I had on my Rodeo, from the Factory.

Cheers

David

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