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4-Cyl Petrol engine advice


Steve F
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Hi, looking for a bit of advice for a standard 4-cly petrol 2286 engine.

Just got a nice series III 1972, that i'm very pleased with.

I'm not sure at the moment if it has an unleaded head, but suspect it hasn't. Should be able to find out soon from former, former keeper who rebuilt most of the vehicle but is away in France at the moment. Is it better to use lead replacement additive in case its not an unleaded head & is the "octane boost" version worthwhile. I guess it wouldn't do any harm even if it turned out to be an unleaded head?

Also, its running pretty nicely when its warm, but is running on a bit when switched off when fully up to temp. Also not very easy to keep running on tickoever when cold - not that bad but could be better (increasing idle speed a bit has helped). I was going to change plugs, leads, dist cap, rotor arm, condenser, points - just so I know this is all OK, then live with it for a few weeks to see how it went with regular use. Also want to check timing - does anyone know what engine numbers relate to 7:1 and 8:1 and what the best timing settings are (Haynes manual gives different settings for 7:1 / 8:1 & different octane fuels etc).

Any other tips would be good

Thanks, Steve

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The short version is that it doesn't really matter if the head is unleaded or not - unless you're doing massive mileage you can just run it and if it ever shows signs of problems get the head reconned to work with unleaded.

Also, while you're doing ignition bits make sure you fit genuine parts as the quality of non-gen is variable.

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My series 2 has been run on unleaded for the 7 years i've owned it with no additives and no issues. Just avoid continuous high rpm's, no massive motorway jaunts. Not exactly hard as series vehicles aren't that fun on the motorway anyway, thats why i got a 90 to complement the series... :ph34r:

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The engine numbers won't identify if the engine is fitted with a high or low compression type head.

Typically a high compression head will have a raised lug that has a head retaining bolt going through it, located between inlets 2 and 3. In simpler terms: on the manifold side of the head where all the head retaining bolts go through, if that surface is the same height the entire length of the head then it's a low compression. Otherwise it is a high compression head.

But as with anything, a previous owner could have altered it. In this instance a low compression head could have been machined to become a high compression head.

As for the running on problem, check the timing and ignition components over (and replace as required). Altering the mixture might also help reduce the problem. I was once told that this is more likely to occur on one of these engines given the contents of unleaded now.

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Thanks Guys,

I've also managed to find an "8" stamped on the raised head bolt lug (found some info on www.expeditionlandrover.info/landRoverFAQ/FAQ_head.htm )so looks like like an 8:1.

Also - how much lateral play is acceptable on the distributor shaft. You can wobble mine side to side by about 1mm. New distributor ? If so what are the best ones to fit, was thinking about one of the electronic ones.

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Plugs, HT leads, rotor arm, points and condensor are a good place to start.

If you set the points gap using a dwell meter you will also be able to get a clue to the health of your distributor. If the dwell angle changes/wanders about then the dizzy shaft bearings are worn.

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Decided to put a new distributor on whilst doing the rest of the ignition. Mine has a Lucas 25D on it at the moment, and has seen better days.

Got a new one coming from Paddocks, but looks like the Lucas 45D type, but they said they are interchangable. They seem very cheap at £16.95 +VAT , but Paddocks said they haven't had any problems with them - anyone used one? Are they interchangable?

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Yes, the two distributors are interchangeable. Be wary about Paddocks too.

I had a 45D, not sure who the manufacturer was, but it was pants. First example was jammed and had to be sent back, second example worked for a few months before sticking in a very retarded position. I now run with the old 25D the Land Rover had when I got it, and it runs better than it did with the 45D even though the shaft is worn on the 25D!

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I got one of these to replace my Ducellier last August, Automec Brand it was, It came with points etc, and was a doddle to fit. Only done 2,000 miles on it so far but no problems to report.

The land rover runs a fair bit better after fitting it.

The outside does appear to be corroding a bit - it was shiney when it was fitted, but the occasional squirt of WD40 restores the shiney appearance.

G.

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I wondered if it would be any good for that price. I'll make sure I keep the old 25D as a backup.

In case I don't get on well with the new distributor, has anyone converted a 25D to electronic ignition (those cheap kits that replace the points and condensor) ? Just wondered if removing the points would mean the worn shaft was less of a problem. Kit here http://www.mm-4x4.com/britpart-electronic-...nsor-2721-p.asp - but that is for a 45D.

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Changed the coil, distributor, plugs and leads today. Then spent ages trying to get it to run right. Ran like pants.

Turned out to be the new coil was no good :angry2: - put the old coil back on and runs like a dream :D

The new distributor from Paddocks actually seems very good and made a very noticeable difference, despite the low price.

Tried a load of different settings for timing and the best running seems to be about 8 BTDC, very smooth, lots of power and no sign of pinking. Checked with a strobe light with vacuum advance disconnected. Is that about normal ?

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8 degrees BTDC on an 8:1 engine is crazily advanced. :o

I've found mine works best somewhere between 6 degrees BTDC and TDC.

I wouldn't be surprised if there is more than 2 degrees of Land Rover 'tolerance' in the timing marks/pointer... :lol:;)

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