Milemarker question

[Turbocharger]

If I remove the solenoids from the valve block, is all the oil going to fall out? Mine are drawing 4 current-amps but not going 'clonk' (and the winch isn't moving either).

AND BEFORE YOU ALL START, yes I'm sure it isn't just moving really slowly, no I'm not going to buy an 8274, yes I can grow a beard while it spools the cable out, no I don't give a s

[BogMonster]

No idea - mine clonk, one direction makes a little more noise than the other but you can hear it with the engine off.

I seem to remember the (new) valve wasn't fully assembled when it arrived but I can't remember what bits it came in however I vaguely seem to remember that there were 2 electric solenoidy bits which were separate to the hydraulic bit and needed to be bolted on somehow? in which case probably not, the messy bit is probably inside the valve block so I think you can take the solenoid coils off somehow but of course when I put it together it was all empty and it was a while ago now

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Yes it will.

The soleniods are a weak link in the MM system, basically 1 is in and one is out..

whats the problem, do they not work ?...they DO clunk, and they are rubbish...cause all sorts of problems with what otherwise could be a superb piece of kit.

Nige

[minivin]

Just out of interest, where can these be brought? just that I would like to buy a cable spares pre-wired for my spares kit?

[white90]

same shop that sells watching paint dry kits

[minivin]

same shop that sells watching paint dry kits

oh do behave

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

Erm..............

Actually he is right

PTO the F Thing, ...............

..............you'll be happy and it will shut all of the "Its so slow" Jokes and Jokers.......

Nige

[Turbocharger]

Yes it will.

Leak, or come apart easily?

Tony Cordell:

[Hybrid_From_Hell]

If you remove the soleniods the fliud will Pi55 out bit timey, as you will have a hole in the control block

If you do this and do not have enough rags or granules to soak up the ensuing mess use a pair of swimming flippers, ....

......you won't swim, but the greater area of load for your feet may help you remian upright 'slighly longer'

Nige

[BogMonster]

Not had any problems with mine, all as originally supplied except for the remote controller which is the only truly cr&p bit of the MM system - and actually I don't think I have used the (new Husky) wired remote in anger since I discovered the joys of wireless so I probably needn't have bothered replacing that

In contrast to certain types of winch I could think of which have had a few different motors in some people's vehicles in the time I have been on this forum.............................................

Though I imagine this will get edited like other recent posts on the subject

[white90]

I could comment I guess:

I've had 1 replacment motor after the original one of unkown vintage

gave up the ghost pulling a 110 up a ridiculous slope the 4.6 that replaced it was fine untill I saw that 6hp motors were available

so I got 2 of those to upgrade the old motors were still in full working action when removed.

(no more editing of posts from me)

[Bush65]

The supplied valve assembly on Mile Marker Hyd motor is built to a low price. It is only suitable for low flow rates such as from stock power steering pumps. The motor is capable of far higher flow rates than the valve can handle.

This valve also takes care of the braking function and is not the best for the purpose.

If you are contemplating a larger pump than a stock power steering pump, I suggest replacing the Mile marker valve assembly.

You will need a counterbalance or overcentre valve to hold the load when you stop winching, a directional control valve (either solenoid or manual operated) and a relief valve to protect the system.

The overcentre of counterbalance valve is best mounted directly on the motor (it can be remote but if the hose is damaged you will not have a brake).

The gerotor type motors used on Mile Markers are a common motor. There are a number of hydraulic valve manufacturers that make stock counterbalance or overcentre valves to bolt onto these motors (Sun comes readily to mind). Or any decent hyd shop can make a block with a suitable cartridge to bolt onto the motor.

You will only need the overcentre or counterbalance for one direction. A dual unit is not needed as the load is always in one direction, even though you may change the direction that the winch drum rotates.

Hydraulic winches have some great advantages if they are part of a well set-up hydraulic system. It is mainly the valve and pump that spoils the Mile Marker reputation.

[madmatt]

The supplied valve assembly on Mile Marker Hyd motor is built to a low price. It is only suitable for low flow rates such as from stock power steering pumps. The motor is capable of far higher flow rates than the valve can handle.

This valve also takes care of the braking function and is not the best for the purpose.

If you are contemplating a larger pump than a stock power steering pump, I suggest replacing the Mile marker valve assembly.

You will need a counterbalance or overcentre valve to hold the load when you stop winching, a directional control valve (either solenoid or manual operated) and a relief valve to protect the system.

The overcentre of counterbalance valve is best mounted directly on the motor (it can be remote but if the hose is damaged you will not have a brake).

The gerotor type motors used on Mile Markers are a common motor. There are a number of hydraulic valve manufacturers that make stock counterbalance or overcentre valves to bolt onto these motors (Sun comes readily to mind). Or any decent hyd shop can make a block with a suitable cartridge to bolt onto the motor.

You will only need the overcentre or counterbalance for one direction. A dual unit is not needed as the load is always in one direction, even though you may change the direction that the winch drum rotates.

Hydraulic winches have some great advantages if they are part of a well set-up hydraulic system. It is mainly the valve and pump that spoils the Mile Marker reputation.

Thats only true if you have the power steering set pump setup. I have a maxidrive PTO and pump and valve block supplied by Alfred Murray and these ceratinly are no let down! I did have to fit an over centre/load hold valve though. The valve blocks in this set up are made by a well known uk manufacturer in the world f hydraulics. I was an Agricultural engineer once upon a time and i never considered any other form of winch for my rover i also knew it had to be PTO driven.

I have had no experience of the other valve block but would guess the only way to remove the solenoids is to remove the valve block from the system, i'd get hold of some proper hydraulic plugs and caps of the right size for the hoses. Then strip the valve block/ solenoids on the bench.

Minivin, My Milemarker and associated kit was bought from Alfred murray, 4x4winches.com.

Matt

[Turbocharger]

Just to close this subject... let's just say my Milemarker remains slow but ultra reliable. It transpires (ahem) if you wire it such that you're telling it to go out and in at the same time, it goes nowhere. I hate electrics.

[honitonhobbit]

Just to close this subject... let's just say my Milemarker remains slow but ultra reliable. It transpires (ahem) if you wire it such that you're telling it to go out and in at the same time, it goes nowhere. I hate electrics.

Hello Son

Have you got a 229CCM pump or a 295CCM pump? is it flowing at 13.5ltr/Min and are you getting 100Bar?

With 8K lbs on it it should be the same speed as an 8274 in low

[Turbocharger]

I don't know, Dad. I've got the ZF74 pump where my power steering should go, but I don't know about 100bars - I've got pipes instead. I thought PTO winches needed bars and UJs to make them work.

Equally, I've no idea how quick it is under load although I ought to measure it at some point. I'd need Andy's dyneemamometer though!

[minivin]

Minivin, My Milemarker and associated kit was bought from Alfred murray, 4x4winches.com.

Matt

cheers

[honitonhobbit]

I don't know, Dad. I've got the ZF74 pump where my power steering should go, but I don't know about 100bars - I've got pipes instead. I thought PTO winches needed bars and UJs to make them work.

Equally, I've no idea how quick it is under load although I ought to measure it at some point. I'd need Andy's dyneemamometer though!

If you have the ZF74 then it should be running at 100Bar (10MPa) and 13.5ltrs/min at prime work rate but if you have the wrong pulley on - who know what...

Low Gear High Gear

2,680 KG 3.6 M/MIN 18.7 M/MIN

2,909 KG 3.0 M/MIN 16.5 M/MIN

3,363 KG 2.5 M/MIN 14.5 M/MIN

3,860 KG 2.2 M/MIN 12.5 M/MIN

4,700 KG 2.0 M/MIN 11.1 M/MIN

So at approx 8,000lbs in low you should be about a foot faster every minute but at 5,000lbs you are the snail to it's tortoise!

[BogMonster]

Just to close this subject... let's just say my Milemarker remains slow but ultra reliable. It transpires (ahem) if you wire it such that you're telling it to go out and in at the same time, it goes nowhere. I hate electrics.

You see John you really should have bought an electric winch

Had you wired an electric winch up so as to attempt simultaneous bi-directional winching there would immediately have been a colossal amount of smoke to indicate user error

instead of ending up with something that is presumably completely undamaged

How did you manage to do that anyway? there are only four wires and two of those are black (=earth)!!!!

[widget]

Not had any problems with mine, all as originally supplied except for the remote controller which is the only truly cr&p bit of the MM system - and actually I don't think I have used the (new Husky) wired remote in anger since I discovered the joys of wireless so I probably needn't have bothered replacing that

I hate the remote and it's only a matter of time before it breaks. Could I ask where you got your replacement and for how much?

Cheers

[madmatt]

I thought PTO winches needed bars and UJs to make them work.

Not necissarily you can have a PTO driven hydraulic pump.

I hate the remote and it's only a matter of time before it breaks. Could I ask where you got your replacement and for how much?

Cheers

Don't know where Widgets came from my wireless came fro, PG Winches about 140 quid plus the dreaded

[Bull Bar Cowboy]

Watching this with interest…………

I not convinced about the quoted 13.5L/min for the ZF74 ………some very basic tests indicate that mine is closer to 11 …………….however, the valve block will only flow up to 3.5 US Gals/min so that and the pump have to go.

Most of the time the speed is fine ……….. but I feel there is an opportunity to customize the setup to meet my expectations. To be fair both the ZF74 and the valve block are a real compromise and essentially a handicap to the winch.

I am going PTO (maybe Maxidrive), together with a fully manual valve block with an over centre valve on the winch and a 5 gallon tank together with a fan driven cooler. I am looking to be flowing about 30 -35 litres, with the max pressure set at around 1850psi …………although some are running 2000psi with no real problems. A compressor will replace the spot vacated by the ZF74.

The plama string will need to be replaced with 11mm, however, I have not managed to break the 9.5mm (not for the want of trying).

Electric is not for me …….period

Right now the pile of bits is growing so the project will soon be started …….. watch this space

Ian

[Turbocharger]

How did you manage to do that anyway? there are only four wires and two of those are black (=earth)!!!!

I've wired up some extra switches for the winch and [blush] some of the free play in the wiring (=antidote to 'just an inch too short') worked it's way down and snagged the propshaft. The 2-core cable (in & out) touched each other and so, whichever switch you pressed, power went to both solenoids. Of course, I switched the switch "in" and there was 12v at the "in" solenoid. Switched it "out" and there's 12v at the "out" solenoid. It never occurred to me to check the opposite solenoid too!

[BogMonster]

I hate the remote and it's only a matter of time before it breaks. Could I ask where you got your replacement and for how much?

Cheers

I got the Husky red alloy handset from David Bowyer, that plus the matching socket was £40-something I think, not cheap but worth it and I know from the days when I had a Husky that you can drive over the top of one (admittedly on grass not tarmac) and it won't break! The standard Milemarker remote is cheap plasticy and rubbish and the rocker switch was horrible to use and packed up completely, Allan sent me two replacements and one of those didn't work either! I don't know why they don't supply a better one in the first place, for all the extra it would cost on a £1000 odd winch setup my MM handset went for a flight across the garage and is probably still under the bench where it landed a year ago...

The wireless remote is the Milemarker own-brand one which was £80-odd from Alfred Murray, it is good enough to use when it works, but at longer range it gets a bit hit and miss and I certainly don't believe it works reliably at 150 feet or whatever the claim is! Also the handset is not waterproof, so you have to be careful, but it is so tiny that you can wear it on a lanyard around your neck and it doesn't get in the way - this is what I do. However I wish I'd spent an extra £100 and bought a Lodar which is both waterproof and by all accounts much better, though the handset is a lot bigger. I may well bin the MM wireless one and get a Lodar at some point, but at the moment the MM one still works most of the time and I always have the Husky wired one for a backup if it goes &&&& up. To save you looking, I found PG Winches was by far the cheapest price on the Lodar when I was looking around - I think it was £160 then and all the other suppliers were about £200.

As for other upgrades - when I can get an engine driven pump (to drive assist with) which doesn't involve a bicycle chain thrashing round on the front of the engine (like the Type R does) I'll do that, but at the moment I like the simplicity of the system I've got still waiting for Ian (BBC) to get on with his (for about the last year) in case I can nick any of his ideas

[BogMonster]

sorry bit more than I thought I just dug out the email - Husky handset £48, socket £10, that was in Dec 2004

may well be cheaper elsewhere but I have always had good service from DB and they always send stuff with the right amount of postage on for here (otherwise it comes by sea.... 2 months)