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Bleeding brakes


mike4444244

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Hi all

Having some issues getting brakes bled/adjusted

1984 S3 109, all adjusters replaced, all wheel cylinders replaced with gen/oem, master cyl replaced with genuine, Uncle Les's modified piping to put bleed nipple at top. 2.25" shoes on front.

Brakes all adjusted so that wheel is locked then backed off slightly.

Bled

Pedal now travels to floor then goes nice and firm at top of second stroke, theres no air in the system, it feels like first pump is moving pistons, second is moving shoes, but shoes centralised and adjusted as above.

Front ( 'S' big union) port on m/cyl is plumbed straight to rear brakes

Rear ( 'P' small union) port goes to T piece then front brakes

I did previously have these the other way round before Pete noticed the letters, it had exactly the same problem before and swapping appears to have made no difference...

The 109 has been stood on someones farm not moving for ages before I bought it but theres plenty of material on the shoes (new on back) and the drums were cleaned up during the overhaul...

So... What the french connection UK is going on? is it anything to do with the PDWA thing I threw in the bin?

Mike

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No idea!

All I can say is that common practice seems to be to clamp all the brake cylinders with G-clamps, and then bleed them.

Does the pedal feel like it starts moving the cylinder immediately? if not, then whip the cover off the pedal box and adjust the push rod so that it nearly but not quite touches the master cylinder ram when at rest.

PDWA? big lumpy thing with two ports on the chassis rail under the master cylinder? It restricts the pressure to the rear wheel cyclinders to make sure the front locks up first.

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Guest otchie1

If you are SURE of these two,

1. No air (clamp flexis to make sure)

2. Properly adjusted shoes (wind on to dragging to be sure)

Then maybe,

1. leading trailing shoes backwards somewhere (likely)

2. worn out drums

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PDWA? big lumpy thing with two ports on the chassis rail under the master cylinder? It restricts the pressure to the rear wheel cyclinders to make sure the front locks up first.

No it doesn't - I suspect it's a Range Rover brake biasing valve you're thinking of. The Series one is a pressure differential warning and is just a shuttle valve that flicks a switch to light a warning light if one brake line loses pressure.

Personally I'd have thought the bigger port on the servo should go to the front brakes, what with them doing most of the work, but then ISTR things being a weird way round on Series so who knows. Are you sure you got all the shoes & springs in the correct orientation, it's very easy to get them slightly wrong.

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Personally I'd have thought the bigger port on the servo should go to the front brakes, what with them doing most of the work, but then ISTR things being a weird way round on Series so who knows. Are you sure you got all the shoes & springs in the correct orientation, it's very easy to get them slightly wrong.

Having just recently done mine, the bigger port should be for the front brakes. It is a 1-in 2-out job. The smaller ports on the other side are for the rear (1-in 1-out)

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No it doesn't - I suspect it's a Range Rover brake biasing valve you're thinking of. The Series one is a pressure differential warning and is just a shuttle valve that flicks a switch to light a warning light if one brake line loses pressure.

Sorry FridgeFreezer, forgot I was in the Series room! FWIW, my 1988 '90 has the brake biasing valve too. :)

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Thanks for your help guys, sorry been late replying have spent all night being ill!

Errr, ok I'm absolutely certain theres no air in the system, the drums are within spec, pretty sure springs are in correct way round as did one side at a time to make sure but I'd need to check, there are only 2 ports on m/cyl, as above they are marked S and P which we assume is secondary and primary, also exact same problem as before they were swapped, also the shoes are all identical on each axle, ie there doesn't appear to be a leading or trailing shoe, also shoes are adjusted to be on the 'too tight' side just to make sure...

I'll whip the drums off this weekend and take some pics

Mike

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Yep

Bevel off the leading and back edgaes on the new shoes

Clamp one hose at a time, see if you can isolate front LH RH vs rear to give

you a clue if its the barkes on the axles or Master Cylinder etc

Try resettting the shoes so the brakes are locked solid and THEN Bleed the system

this last trick was the only way I ever got mine to have a decent pedal :)

then when bleed and only then reset the shoes to normal

Nige

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same master cylinder is used on 110's upto the 300tdi vehicles,

IIRC the front piston has a bigger fluid capacity & can create more pressure to service the front brakes requirements.

this brake system flaut diagnosis sheet might help [yes, i know it's for defender but faults won't be that much different]

post-20-1248599538_thumb.jpg

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Hi

Pete appears to have fixed it! 2 of the new adjusters weren't adjusting properly, Ralph are you sure the master cyl is the same as the one on my 200 tdi def is completely different, it has 2 ports for the front and 1 for the rear, the series on just has 2 ports?

Thanks for all the help guys

Mike

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Guest otchie1
Hi

Pete appears to have fixed it! 2 of the new adjusters weren't adjusting properly, Ralph are you sure the master cyl is the same as the one on my 200 tdi def is completely different, it has 2 ports for the front and 1 for the rear, the series on just has 2 ports?

Thanks for all the help guys

Mike

Also pic 2 & pic 6 looks like you have fitted two leading shoes on the same drum and then two trailing shoes on the same drum but it isn't all that clear

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Also pic 2 & pic 6 looks like you have fitted two leading shoes on the same drum and then two trailing shoes on the same drum but it isn't all that clear

I wouldn't necessarily disagree with this statement apart from the fact that the pins for the adjusters don't allow the shoes to be fitted any differently.

As yet haven't tried the brakes in anger, but the pedal is now correct and consistant. Issue seems to have mainly been caused by a certain manufacturers cheap chocolate adjuster components.

Pete.

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Also pic 2 & pic 6 looks like you have fitted two leading shoes on the same drum and then two trailing shoes on the same drum but it isn't all that clear

Hi the front shoes (pic 2) are exactly as they were when I got the 109 (no guarantees this is right though) the rear shoes are brand new bought as an axle set, in the box were 4 identical shoes, with no obvious leading or trailing ones

Bloody drums I'm off back to my lovely defender with its discs all round.... :lol:

Mike

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Right i know this is going to sound stupid to some people who already know the answer but what is the difference between leading and trailing shoes???? i have just replaced the rear shoes on my 109 and they were identical, the ones i refitted were i guess leading and trailing so i checked the land rover manual and haynes manual and i couldn't get any answers.

So which one goes to the front and which one goes to the rear? Simple answers or better still pictures only please.

Many thanks

Matt

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