Jump to content

Viscous coupling test


Drakes

Recommended Posts

I have a RR with an auto box and BW viscous transfer box 93my. Can anybody tell me how to do a quick test to make sure the viscous unit is working properly as I have a feeling something is not quite right. Ideally a test with the box still in the vehicle as I don't really fancy taking it out.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure it's been detailed on here before, so searching should help, but it's probably easier to find on the Ashcroft Transmissions site.

By all means do it an 'easy' way, but (IMV) you will get more certain results if you put more effort into it, by disconnecting the front prop shaft and measuring, with a torque wrench, the force required to move the VC with the handbrakle applied.

Good Luck

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The simple way:

Jack up one front wheel.

Grab the wheel you have jacked up and try and rotate it. You will really need to try hard if the VC is OK, but it will turn with a constant resistance.

If the VC is knackered the wheel will either spin freely or not at all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You need the transfer box in neutral when doing this test! :)

Sorry - don't understand.. Am I missing something? Isn't it enough to have the main box in neutral?

AFIK, this test from BishBosh does the job perfectly:

Jack up one front wheel.

Grab the wheel you have jacked up and try and rotate it. You will really need to try hard if the VC is OK, but it will turn with a constant resistance.

If the VC is knackered the wheel will either spin freely or not at all.

I used this technique yesterday and if I lean on my (lifted) front wheel with all my weight it turns smoothly, but slowly (a couple of inches per second at the circumference).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have a RR with an auto box and BW viscous transfer box 93my. Can anybody tell me how to do a quick test to make sure the viscous unit is working properly as I have a feeling something is not quite right. Ideally a test with the box still in the vehicle as I don't really fancy taking it out.

Thanks

Ashcrofts website (LINK) has the correct procedure. Essentially as others have said: tranny box in neutral, main in neutral, handbrake on, lift 1 front wheel and it should still turn with some resistance. The scrubbing when on tight turns as others have said is also a sign - it tries to fight you!

Remember that if knackered it can be replaced with gearbox in situ - see Ashcrofts advice under installations instructions on the same link..

HTH

Rob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry - don't understand.. Am I missing something? Isn't it enough to have the main box in neutral?

As the above vehicle is auto, they aren't 'naturally' left in neutral, so just easier to stick the transfer box in neutral.

If you are measuring the torque required to turn it, having the transfer box turning as well will of course upset the reading by a small amount.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We use cookies to ensure you get the best experience. By using our website you agree to our Cookie Policy