Marks 110 Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 Hi all Still suffering with overheating problems with my 200tdi, temp gauge goes virtually into red and sitting 2/3-3/4 of the way across gauge. Have replaced gauge, wiring, water pump, thermostat and expansion tank cap. I also flushed the system and removed the rad to inspect it. Seems fine externally and was recored 4 years ago so I am reluctant to replace it but running out of other ideas. I will also try new rad hoses although I doubt this is the problem. Head gasket was replaced six months ago and it has been running hot ever since and also just before the gasket went pop, it blew between a cylinder and one of the coolant passageways where the head had corroded slightly. Head was skimmed to hopefully cure this. Any ideas on what to try next? Due to take the 110 to france in a couple of weeks! Cheers mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Timmy511 Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 is it a defender or disco 200 tdi engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 id get it tested or just got the head off and put a new gasget in my 200tdi was doing something simaler it turned out to be a heir line crack from the water way to the exhast i'd never have found it but the exhast gasget was going so there was a black gunk oussing out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks 110 Posted July 28, 2009 Author Share Posted July 28, 2009 is it a defender or disco 200 tdi engine? Its the original defender engine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks 110 Posted July 28, 2009 Author Share Posted July 28, 2009 Its the original defender engine When you say get it tested do you mean a compression test? It doesn't seem to be using any coolant Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 try a new sender unit PRC8593 is the correct Defender 200tdi item. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks 110 Posted July 28, 2009 Author Share Posted July 28, 2009 try a new sender unit PRC8593 is the correct Defender 200tdi item. Sorry, I've changed so many bits I forgot to say I'd also changed the sender unit! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 may be worth having the cylinder head pressure tested, could have a hairline crack in a waterway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy_SP Posted July 28, 2009 Share Posted July 28, 2009 may be worth having the cylinder head pressure tested, could have a hairline crack in a waterway. Have you changed the anti-siphon valve - the one in the 'Y' piece off the coolant tank? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 Have you changed the anti-siphon valve - the one in the 'Y' piece off the coolant tank? that is not fitted to Defender 200Tdi's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks 110 Posted July 29, 2009 Author Share Posted July 29, 2009 that is not fitted to Defender 200Tdi's When you say pressure tested do you mean a cylinder leakdown test, compression test, cooling system pressure test or something else? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lrfarmer Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 i'd pressure test the hole system. may be blocked waterways in the rad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy_SP Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 that is not fitted to Defender 200Tdi's Ah - I've got one on my 300Tdi, but haven't got as far as plumbing in my 200Tdi yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 When you say pressure tested do you mean a cylinder leakdown test, compression test, cooling system pressure test or something else? a full cooling system pressure test will tell you if any leaks exist & it should show up any hairline cracks in the cylinder head. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks 110 Posted July 29, 2009 Author Share Posted July 29, 2009 a full cooling system pressure test will tell you if any leaks exist & it should show up any hairline cracks in the cylinder head. Local garage suggested doing a 'sniffer' test by adding a chemical to the coolant which changes colour if it mixes with combustion gases. He said he would only charge a fiver so I'll get that done as soon as I get chance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88inchthing Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 Local garage suggested doing a 'sniffer' test by adding a chemical to the coolant which changes colour if it mixes with combustion gases. He said he would only charge a fiver so I'll get that done as soon as I get chance. Hi Mark If you havn't lost any coolant I would susspect a blocked rad. It may have been caused by gunge from your head gasket failure, or if it's had radweld or similar in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks 110 Posted July 29, 2009 Author Share Posted July 29, 2009 Hi MarkIf you havn't lost any coolant I would susspect a blocked rad. It may have been caused by gunge from your head gasket failure, or if it's had radweld or similar in it. You might be right, lets hope so! I don't seem to be loosing any coolant. But the strange thing is the temp goes well over halfway after only a mile or two of driving. I don't see how it could be the rad as the thermostat will still be closed then. To my mind the fact that the engine is getting hot this quickly points to engine problems rather than a faulty cooling system. In the past the engine would take 15 mins or so to get up to this temp? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Have you checked the thermostat? It looks like restricted flow out of the head to me - the obvious culprit being either debris from the old gasket, poorly manufactured gasket, or thermostat. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks 110 Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 Have you checked the thermostat? It looks like restricted flow out of the head to me - the obvious culprit being either debris from the old gasket, poorly manufactured gasket, or thermostat.Les. Yeah I've changed the stat to a britpart one and have now replaced that with a genuine landrover item, still no difference. It could well be a restriction in the coolant passages within the head or block but I'm not sure how to flush it out. I've already used a flushing chemical and connected a hose to the heater connections on the head and to be honest it ran pretty clear. I suppose the best way is to take the head off? Have you come across this problem of poorly manufactured gaskets. It was a cheapish one from Paddocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 I always buy good quality gaskets, such as Payen, BGA, etc. I've never known a 200TDi head to crack - it would take some serious overheating for that to happen. I would imagine that a cracked head (although causing the engine to appear to overheat), would also cause coolant loss. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks 110 Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 I always buy good quality gaskets, such as Payen, BGA, etc. I've never known a 200TDi head to crack - it would take some serious overheating for that to happen. I would imagine that a cracked head (although causing the engine to appear to overheat), would also cause coolant loss.Les. Just had the sniffer test done and the result was negative - no combustion gases apparent in the coolant however as the guy said this doesn't confirm that the head and gasket are good. He suggested taking the head off and getting it pressure tested which I think I might do for peace of mind. Do I risk it and head off to france in couple of weeks time or spend the next few evenings replacing a head gasket and checking the head which may be ok? Either way I'm determined to find out whats causing the problem, I'd rather not find out in the middle of france though! By the way Les where do you usually get your gaskets from? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 Just a thought, are you sure the thermostat is the right way around? Have you tried running (as a test) without thermostat? As there is no other sign of overheating (no steam, no coolant loss) then I'd really look hard at thermostat, gauge accuracy and water sender accuracy. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trickydicky Posted July 30, 2009 Share Posted July 30, 2009 I always buy good quality gaskets, such as Payen, BGA, etc. I've never known a 200TDi head to crack - it would take some serious overheating for that to happen. I would imagine that a cracked head (although causing the engine to appear to overheat), would also cause coolant loss.Les. perhaps its a worn oil pump and theres not enough oil getting to the head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks 110 Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 Just a thought, are you sure the thermostat is the right way around?Have you tried running (as a test) without thermostat? As there is no other sign of overheating (no steam, no coolant loss) then I'd really look hard at thermostat, gauge accuracy and water sender accuracy. G. Sorry what do you mean by 'right way round'? Is it possible to fit it upside down? Have taken a few readings with an infra red temperature gauge and the surface temp of the top hose near the stat is in the mid nineties so i suspect the coolant temp is a bit higher than this at the sender. Water coming through the bottom hose is approx 25 degrees less than the corresponding position on the top hose. However obviosly I have only tested this at standstill when there isn't a lot or airflow through rad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marks 110 Posted July 30, 2009 Author Share Posted July 30, 2009 perhaps its a worn oil pump and theres not enough oil getting to the head Would the oil light come on in this case? Just wondering if the oil passageways could be blocked. Worth trying an engine oil flush? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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