chickenslippers Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Hi guys just going to say hello first as this is my first post. MY car is a Discovery 1, P reg, 3.9 V8 Auto ES I have had a read through changing a brake pipe from the tech archive and have a couple of questions if I may. 1, Does my disco use 3/16 copper pipe? 2, Having read through a few posts about poor flaring tools eg £10 ebay, I was willing to spend a bit more up to £40. Are there any favourite tools? 3, Do I just get a selection of 3/16 fittings or is there a standard "if your replacing all brake lines you will need x amount of these and y amount of these"? 4, Will I need to purchase brake pipe clips I have heard they are likely to snap, if so do we prefer plastic or metal? Any other tips? I'm slightly nervous and excited about doing this job as I have never done it before. Many many thanks in advance. Simon, Halkyn North Wales Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Welcome You can buy new brake pipes though DIY is the cheaper option. I am pretty sure all the LR pipes are steel on all vehicles (not sure about the very new models) It's not a job I have done so will leave to others to comment on the kit for the job. I've always regarded copper brake tubing with slight suspicion but it's probably just one of my (many) unreasonable suspicions possibly fuelled by the fact that on a lot of vehicles you see with copper brake pipes they look like they have been made up and fitted by somebody blind using only their feet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quagmire Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 All my LR's (and my families LR's) have Copper brake lines- although recently we have been using Cupro-Nickle. Never had any issues with the Copper from fatigue, corrosion, whatever... However, as Bogmonster says- it can be easy to do a really cr@p job. Tips are to take your time, i use my dads method and unroll a short length from new roll of pipe and then (if possible) form as much up away from the vehicle copying the part you are replacing. Easiest way to unroll new pipe without putting kinks all over the shop is to hold the loose end down on a bench and then unroll the pipe along the top of the bench- you will then have section that is nearly dead straight, only needing a little tweaking for perfection. Oh, and use a pipe bender if you have one. And make sure you have the fittings on the pipe before you flare! I have flared a pipe before, not having thought how i would then slide the fitting over a 90deg bend That was quite annoying... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Pipe is 3/16", fittings are M10 fine thread, and mostly male, though I think there are some female too. Single flare for female fittings, and double flare for male fittings. Always copy like-for-like. Les Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wizard Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Hi All 3 of my Land Rovers failed the MOT on corroded rear brake pipes. The 1st was mrs wizards Freelander, I went and bought ready made pipes to replace the corroded ones only to find nothing wrong with them, but I replaced them anyway. A few weeks late the Range Rover failed on corroder rear brake pipes, so out came the brasso and I gave them a quick polish... instant MOT sucsess. Last week the Disco went down to the same place and guess what, corroded rear brake pipes again. A bit os sand paper made them look like new and it pass that afrenoon. makes you think. wizard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicedayforit Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Hi All 3 of my Land Rovers failed the MOT on corroded rear brake pipes. The 1st was mrs wizards Freelander, I went and bought ready made pipes to replace the corroded ones only to find nothing wrong with them, but I replaced them anyway. A few weeks late the Range Rover failed on corroder rear brake pipes, so out came the brasso and I gave them a quick polish... instant MOT sucsess. Last week the Disco went down to the same place and guess what, corroded rear brake pipes again. A bit os sand paper made them look like new and it pass that afrenoon. makes you think. wizard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicedayforit Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 If you coat all your brake pipes with a layer of general purpose grease, touched up each year as required, your pipes will never corrode and thus will not need replacing. Same with steel fuel pipes. It's a lot easier than replacing the pipes. Mine are coming up to 16 years old and look like new under the grease. Well worth the effort. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ally V8 Posted September 20, 2009 Share Posted September 20, 2009 Hi All 3 of my Land Rovers failed the MOT on corroded rear brake pipes. The 1st was mrs wizards Freelander, I went and bought ready made pipes to replace the corroded ones only to find nothing wrong with them, but I replaced them anyway. A few weeks late the Range Rover failed on corroder rear brake pipes, so out came the brasso and I gave them a quick polish... instant MOT sucsess. Last week the Disco went down to the same place and guess what, corroded rear brake pipes again. A bit os sand paper made them look like new and it pass that afrenoon. makes you think. wizard Yes,it makes me think that rusty brake pipes are dangerous and need replacing.Its fine to clean up pipes where the green coating is a bit flaky,but what about the bits you cant see.Last week I had in a P38 for new air springs and height sensors,while I was checking it I noticed some dodgy looking pipes and suggested to the owner they be replaced.Good job I did, the pipe to the LHR caliper was damp where it had just started leaking BEHIND the wheel arch liner where you cant see it. GET THEM CHANGED ! (Its also a good oppertunity to flush the system through with fresh fluid.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chickenslippers Posted September 21, 2009 Author Share Posted September 21, 2009 I was going to purchase the Sealy AK5063 flaring tool and a mini pipe bender but I cant find any imperial benders that bend 3/16. Lots of 6,8 and 10mm benders. 3/16 equals 4.76mm how does this bend in a 6mm bender? Is there a fav place to order pipe and fittings from or are they all much of a muchness and its just a case of shopping round. Many thanks again, Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pw8757 Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 I had to do this job and as previously pointed out, it just needs some care and time to achieve a great result. I have used copper and also steel over the years, not much difference IMHO. The tip I was given was by a mechanic at the MoT centre that failed the car - "You are going to get rid of the pipes. Cut the old ones with a junior hacksaw and use a socket to take off the pipe fitting, rather than run the risk of rounding it off with a spanner". Also - as you are going to have to bleed the whole system, consider getting steel flexible hoses at the same time as this job. They improve braking efficiency. I used waxoyl on the pipes and clips when I reassembled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
karlo Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 I was going to purchase the Sealy AK5063 flaring tool and a mini pipe bender but I cant find any imperial benders that bend 3/16. Lots of 6,8 and 10mm benders. 3/16 equals 4.76mm how does this bend in a 6mm bender? Is there a fav place to order pipe and fittings from or are they all much of a muchness and its just a case of shopping round. Many thanks again, Si Copper pipe can be bent easily by hand, a bender would just make a very neat job so I wouldn't see any major problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicedayforit Posted September 22, 2009 Share Posted September 22, 2009 I was going to purchase the Sealy AK5063 flaring tool and a mini pipe bender but I cant find any imperial benders that bend 3/16. Lots of 6,8 and 10mm benders. 3/16 equals 4.76mm how does this bend in a 6mm bender? Is there a fav place to order pipe and fittings from or are they all much of a muchness and its just a case of shopping round. Many thanks again, Si You can make yourself a simple pipe bender for that size of pipe by screwing a 25mm length of wood dowl about 40mm dia onto a flat board. Just lay the pipe on the board and gently pull around the dowel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chickenslippers Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 Hi guys thanks for all the help. How glad am I that mr MOT spotted the corrosion. They didn't look in very good condition at all when I took them off and had a closer look. I finished the job tonight and I'm very happy with the results. I did as suggested and made sure all bleed nipples could be undone first. I found the Sealy flaring tool very easy to use. I have never flared brake pipe before and I didn't have one joint fail. I thought the tool was brill and did everything it said on the tin. I used the tip of hacksawing the pipe then useing a socket to undo, worked a treat. After bleeding the system ,checking and double checking for leaks I gave the copper pipes a good coating of copper grease. As I had one of the sil lpg tanks off to run the brake pipes this got a good sanding down and repaint.( think I will take the other tanks off and do the same to them). Thanks again for all your help, Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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