white90 Posted May 18, 2006 Author Share Posted May 18, 2006 £5 says mine will out last yours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landrover598 Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 I soldered then crimped mine using a pliers in the vice, looks like a good fit, shouldn't come apart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Outrage Posted May 18, 2006 Share Posted May 18, 2006 it is about reducing the circumference of the metal tube part of the connector; I'll bet my method will reduce it more than your pliers thus producing the tighter crimp.We can have a tug of war if you want to see which method is stronger The original crimp on Tony's "pukka" supplied leads don't look particularly good and i'm not a fan of the crush it with pliers and a hammer method. I would use the correct tool (which incidentally I have access to) This will ensure that the correct amount of force has been applied to the lug as to not overcrimp (weekening the construction of the crimp) or undercrimping (resulting in a loose connection). As O2 has stated the idea is to pull the outsides of the crimp in tight uniformally so that it grips evenly around the outside of the cable strands. I suspect that the pliers method will flatten the crimp leaving space at either side which will eventually become occupied by strands that work loose by vibration. Once the gaps are filled by these loose strands there is less pressure on the main bunch which will eventually work loose out of the crimp. I would suspect that motor factors which supply adequate cable and crimps may have access to a set of crimpers. Just my two penneth woth of course! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattmoo Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 Why not just by the clamps with the 2 bolts that hold the cable,there like a quid each in molevalley farmers or most car part shops Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highway_Star Posted December 22, 2007 Share Posted December 22, 2007 As part of my job I regularly make heavy current, low voltage DC connections. They are DC feeds to cinema arc lamps, and have to carry anything from 50 amps upwards. They must do that all day, every day. 100% duty cycle. I use a hydraulic crimping tool, as described above it's calibrated and leaves identifying marks on the connection. Speaking from a professional standpoint, I'm horrified at the idea of using pliers+hammer, pliers+vice etc. Several problems:- There is no way you're getting an evenly crimped connection so the current carrying capacity is reduced and resistance is increased, at low voltages resistance is your enemy, the connection will heat up quickly, wasting power which should be transferred to your winch motor, the conneciton then oxidises and the joint gets worse with every heat/cool cycle. My worst fear, especially as these are being used on a vehicle and prone to vibration, is that they'll simply come apart in time. Solder is a sound approach, as long as you're doing it properly ie like welding you're getting full penetration, not just filling in the holes. Most crimp lug type connectors are plated/tinned and solder well, if you can get enough heat into them. I do solder them on anything above 100A and anything that is going to be used portable, using a plumbers propane blowlamp for heat. If the lugs fitted by the pliers and hammer method haven't failed yet, I reckon it's just a matter of time, and the fact that they are not used regularly. I've seen a few bodged winch supply cables come adrift with fairly spectacular results. I've also connected a fair few winch supply cables for mates in my time, none of them have ever let go. If you haven't access to a proper crimper and don't want to shell out for one, most electrical factors will crimp it for you for a small charge if you bring the cables to them, or you can hire the tool. Low voltage, high current DC is not to be played with, whilst it won't electrocute you, it will easily set fire your motor! The problem with the bolt on type lugs in a vehicular application would be them undoing themselves with vibration I'd imagine. We sometimes see them on European made cinema kit, but they are by no means the norm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 I haven't got a suitable pic from the right angle, you need to find bits that match up, I was lucky in that I had a photo of the 90 at the same angle as the chair so I nicked the wheels off that, and the penguin was facing the right way, but I don't have one of the 90 with the Safari on at the right angle - maybe on the weekend.Anyway I don't want to go wading in my armchair as the cushions will go all soggy and there's nowt worse than having a wet @r%e Meanwhile I have amended it slightly get the winch fitted Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madmatt Posted December 23, 2007 Share Posted December 23, 2007 I don't mess about with winch wiring as winches should be powered by Hydraulics! LOL! But I do have numerous large cables on the 130 for jump start sockets when I started the project I looked at all the different methods then looked at all the kit in the garge that I'd spent thousands on and thought, Stop being a tight git go and buy the tool for the job, my crimpers were 75 quid and have been fantastic. At the end of the day they'll always be different vews on the best way to do it, but if anyone is in or around Leicestershire and wants their cables crimping your more than welcome to come here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted December 23, 2007 Author Share Posted December 23, 2007 Funnily enough I too have done a fair few for mates and to date have not been responsible for any failures/fires or otherwise. the hydraulic crimped one I had done left a very sharp edge and was a poor connection. Fair enough if you recommend your methods and I'm happy to agree they are the correct ones but all the same mine have performed happily for years without any issues re heating/letting go or oxidisation present at any of the crimps and no winch failures etc etc. To add I now Have twin motors on the front using this bodgtastic method Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Highway_Star Posted December 24, 2007 Share Posted December 24, 2007 Tony, you're only getting away with it because of the low duty cycle. That said, if I didn't have access to the correct gear I'd invent some bodgetastic method of doing it, BUT I would be soldering them too. Be well all Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cil111 Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Here in Malta as a bodge solution we just smash the middle of the crimp with a chisel and hammer... i have done a couple and never let go till now.. of course the proper way is to use the proper tool... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mo Murphy Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 I've used Tony's pliers and club hammer method with a good measure of success and no problems to date Don't hold the pliers too tightly though as the shock from the hammer flippin' hurts Mo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJ101 Posted July 17, 2008 Share Posted July 17, 2008 Any warranty claims please email meTJ101-Tangoman-Exmoorcop best check your crimped connections So far so good,, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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