Matthew Posted October 19, 2009 Share Posted October 19, 2009 Hi all, Does anyone know of any threads showing how to remove a 200TDi\LT77 and fit a 3.5V8 Auto? I've tried searching but it doesn't like V8...not enough letters! Found all the information I could ever need for megasquirt'ing it when its in!! Cheers, matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
max-ie Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 Hi, it sound easy if you say it quickly but its not. I did mine and there's alot to think about such as fuelling if EFI, gear selector positioning, props to mention just a few. Also my motor is returning 12 to the gallon from a 3.5 efi. I'd hoped or 17 or 18 to the gallon but can't get anywhere near. Expensive if doing lots of miles!! Max Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Posted October 20, 2009 Author Share Posted October 20, 2009 Hi, it sound easy if you say it quickly but its not. I did mine and there's alot to think about such as fuelling if EFI, gear selector positioning, props to mention just a few. Also my motor is returning 12 to the gallon from a 3.5 efi. I'd hoped or 17 or 18 to the gallon but can't get anywhere near. Expensive if doing lots of miles!! Max thanks for the reply! I'm sure it's not as straight forward as I think..nothing usually is when it comes to landrovers!! But surely it's all worth just for the sound alone! matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb Posted October 20, 2009 Share Posted October 20, 2009 My advise to others asking me this, has been to get a complete donor RRC and take it from there. ....seriously, you will have pretty much everything mechanical that you will need and the rest can be fabricated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Posted October 20, 2009 Author Share Posted October 20, 2009 Thanks for the tip, I would like to find a donar preferably with a 4HP24EH, does anyone know which models they were fitted to? Thanks,matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyb Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 Thanks for the tip, I would like to find a donar preferably with a 4HP24EH, does anyone know which models they were fitted to? Discovery 2s and P38A Range Rovers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Posted October 21, 2009 Author Share Posted October 21, 2009 Discovery 2s and P38A Range Rovers. Ah..not quite as cheap as a RRC donar! Think i'll stick with the more common 4HP22. Thanks for your help! matt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 I'm going to be tackling this same project myself shortly. I have a RRC as a donor vehicle. I've pretty much decided to ditch the ideal of a manual box as I have all the parts n the RRC I'm not sure whether to keep the EFi or go with a pair of SU carbs. It will be getting the LPG treatment whichever though as I have a BLOS propane carb on my 110 V8 and it is a very good fitment. The BLOS carb will run with carbs or EFi so the carbs are only required for running on petrol. Chances are the EF1 will stay and I'll use a programmable ignition for the LPG and leave the standard EFi alone as backup. At least with the EFi throttle body the airflow won't be always having to pull the pistons up in the carbs. I'd be happy to compare notes as I'm due to collect the RRC and another 110 from Curley of this parish this weekend. The 110 has an LT77 and 200 TDi in it so the thread title struck a chord with me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted October 21, 2009 Share Posted October 21, 2009 In the RRC LSE there was a slightly uprated version of the regular classic box, to go with the  4.2 engine -could be an option? There are plenty being broken nowadays.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Posted October 22, 2009 Author Share Posted October 22, 2009 Chances are the EF1 will stay and I'll use a programmable ignition for the LPG and leave the standard EFi alone as backup. I'm liking the sound of that! Definitely seems like the best solution to me, any information you can give me about this setup would be great! When are you planning on getting your swap started? I just need to find a good donar now, I definitely want to go auto, I've been driving a big V8 auto pickup for ages and I've become very fond of loads of power/lazy left leg! Thanks for the box tip Bowie! Cheers, matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headhunter Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 Matthew/Zoltan Hopefully a write-up and photo's will be forthcoming for the Technical Archive John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 If anyone else wanted engine/gearbox mounts I'll take some templates of whatever I make for myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Posted October 22, 2009 Author Share Posted October 22, 2009 If anyone else wanted engine/gearbox mounts I'll take some templates of whatever I make for myself. Yes please! I want to get the engine and box/s set back as far as possible for obvious reasons. I have heard of people using the existing transfer box mountings to set the position of the gear box and engine mounts; i.e. remove engine and gearbox mounts from chassis. connect engine, gear and transfer box together out of vehicle, lift into vehicle and mount the transfer box on original mounts, then mark out engine and gear box mounts. This enables you to use your existing propshafts - only thing is I don't think this will get the engine and box as far back as i would like. Thanks for the heads up John, i shall keep any eye out for that!! Cheers, matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
headhunter Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 Matthew I was rather hoping you would do one John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumpy2268 Posted October 22, 2009 Share Posted October 22, 2009 Guys, Have just read this topic and would like to offer pics if useful. I have a 4.2 with auto box in my 90 which was sourced from an LSE. I did not fit it, so cannot give you intimate details, but please feel free to pm me with quetions if you need help with anything. Regards, Adrian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matthew Posted October 22, 2009 Author Share Posted October 22, 2009 Matthew I was rather hoping you would do one John I certainly will do John, although I'm not sure it'll be quite up to the exceptionally high standard of Mr. Henson's "How To's"! Thanks for the offer of pic's Adrian, I'm sure they will prove extremely useful! Cheers, Matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted October 25, 2009 Share Posted October 25, 2009 If anyone else wanted engine/gearbox mounts I'll take some templates of whatever I make for myself. That would be great. After the double garage has been built, i have already a 2.5td 90 sitting there waiting to be stripped and a 3.9efi, manual box and transfer waiting patiently to be re-homed. Any advise, measurements, problems would/will be appreciated. Cheers John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted October 26, 2009 Share Posted October 26, 2009 I picked up both the 110, soon to be longer, and the Range Rover donor, at the weekend so it is project on! My priority is the at the back of the 110 but I want to be rid of the Range Rover as the place is looking like Steptoe's yard ATM so I will be getting the engine and box out as soon as possible. Once all the bits are out I'll post some pics up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Personally, my own take on doing a job like this, would be to stipr off wings and front panels, remove old engine and gearbox, remove all fuel lines and as much electrics as possible, and then completely remove all existing engine brackets so you've got a blank canvas. From here you have a nice big space to work in, and it's wise at this time to spend hours checking out the chassis in engine-bay and gearbox area. Remove the front axle to make life easier still. If there any dubious areas of the chassis, now is the time weld them up/reinforce them. You can measure roughly where engine mounts will be, stepping the distance back from the remaining gearbox mounts, taking the distance from the engine already bolted to the transfer box of your choice. Welding a good thick plate to the inside of the chassis now in that area, will give you something solid to work to. Having done that, paint and waxoyl thoroughly, 'cos for some places its the last chance they'll get! From here on is the difficult bit, and you need to swing in the engine and gearbox assembly under the bulkhead, and starting getting levels and bracket shapes. Its all a lot easier without the front axle in, but be careful where things go - we got it wrong on a 109 once and the prop fouled the engine mount on full travel. Having succesfully completed 4 TDi conversions, this process always works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 That sounds like pretty good advice to me. When I put the R380 in my 110 I did at least have the original engine position to work to Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 I work on the basis that provided you have room at the front - always harder with a Series, you should leave the gearbox in its normal position, as then you dont have to fiddle about with propshafts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattMatt Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Guys PLease keep this post going - I'm just getting the plans together to do mine so would be very interested in sharing ideas. I've already got a 200TDi and LT77 in the Series (lovely Designa chassis so all the holes are predrilled for the g/b etc) but I'm hankering after the V8. I would want to use the LSE 4.2 or maybe the 4.0l p38 but I'm undecided on auto or manual I'm going with Megasquirt as well!!!! Should be a load of fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted November 7, 2009 Share Posted November 7, 2009 Ive now got both vehicles and have started stripping out the Range Rover with a view to getting the engine/gearbox out maybe next weekend. Ive also had a good look at the gearbox mounts on the auto gearbox and I think subject to the chassis rails being the same width or wider, these could probably be transferred straight over with new bolt holes/sleeves welded in to the 110 chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingy Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Any updates yet lads???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoltan Posted November 16, 2009 Share Posted November 16, 2009 Oddly enough I have this afternoon removed the gearbox and transfer box from the Rangie, the engine came out yesterday. I will almost certainly position the transfer box in the same place as it is behind the LT77, it simplifies props no end and I don't need it in any other position. Subject to checking they are the same transfer box, it should go in on its existing mounts. I haven't checked that 100% but that's the current plan. Luckily the gear selection is via cable so all sorts of permutations are possible Next stage is to rob any useful bits off the Range Rover and get some space in the workshop back before removing the 200 TDi and LT77. The auto box oil cooler will probably be way to long for the front of a defender so it will probably need a conventional style cooler. Hoses will be a small issue as the auto box pipe is 9-10mm o/d and oil coolers 1/2" BSP etc. Not a big problem as they would appear to run at low pressure since both pipes are held by jubilee clips with only a simple flare at the end And interesting factoid from today: the perfect balance point on an empty LT230/ZF auto box is right at the back of the oil pan on the auto box. Provided you don't crush the pan it hangs almost perfectly. I lowered it down on the engine crane through the top of the transmission tunnel. With the Rangie raised up by 5-6" there is enough clearance underneath to slide it out on a piece of hardboard. You do need to remove the diff-lock/hi-lo lever and housing first. A few days clearing up for me now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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