hobson Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 I need to fit a good heater in the 110, the standard one is ok for me (by defender standards!) but my other half would be cold sat under the space shuttle during takeoff. i'm trying to convince her that we need to go up to Sweden to see the northern lights later this year and do some proper snow driving, and so far she's coming round to the idea, but i know as soon as it drops past 0 i'll be getting serious earache and a very unhappy face! (bless her!) SO, i've looked at the heaters on the net (eberspacher and another one who's name i forget) but there's more sales info than technical info so i can't work out what does what and how they work. Any chance someone can give me a run down of whats out there, how they work and whats effective please? bear in mind; to please my dear lady it needs to run hot enough to melt titanium.... Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Sparkes Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Try reading this thread for comments on new eBay heaters. Small, Medium, and the new Large. http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=31130.0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 This thread http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=48652 is active on eberspachers at the moment just below this one - i mention a place there that you can buy one for ~150... Cheaper than ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobson Posted October 27, 2009 Author Share Posted October 27, 2009 Thanks people, looked at this one: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190344963656 which seems pretty good, i like the idea of 5-6KW in a Defender! would that be a replacement for the standard heater matrix thingy then? or addtional? and does anyone have any idea of how quick something like this would warm up? i'd ring they guy but my wife has my phone in her bag and has taken it to work.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philip Tonkin Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Why is the Defender heater so bad. People often say it's about set up but mine is in perfect adjustment but really lacking any real airflow compared to many small hatchbacks. I wonder if the ebay units could be made to work better than the standard or if maybe the problem is the fact there are no forward blowers which means it feels colder until the whole cab is warm. I have thought about trying to re-engineer the whole thing in a more compact and efficient package. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 When correctly set up (and I don't mean blanking off the radiator or removing the fan) the standard heater is more than adequate in all but the coldest weather (my 90 soft-top was fine in that big freeze we had last winter). If everything is working as it should then have you considered reducing the area of vehicle the heater actually has to heat? In a 110 I will admit that the heater is going to have a hard time of it but if you aren't actually carrying anyone in the 2nd row of seats (assuming SW) or in the back (any type) then why not use a fume curtain? This drastically reduces the volume of space to be kept warm and is a very worthwhile modification. If you are using the rear then an auxillary heater plumbed into the cooling system is probably the way to go to keep things simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 check the heater control cables settings against this write up I did a while ago, then your heater should keep you plenty warm enough. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=33481&st=0&gopid=323899entry323899 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landmannnn Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 Not sure if it has been said before but a heated seat kit at £60 from fleabay is more than enough to keep any cold blooded female happy. Much easier to fit than an auxiliary heater and more effective too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 as landmannn says - look at heated seat options. Exmoor Trim do them (OEC are agents for them) an engine preheater is good too, not sure what you are driving but the Webasto preheater was a god send in my td5 as it took sooooo long to warm up. it wont improve top internal temp though. Litch - i think your missing the point, the man says his misses feels the cold and hes going to sweden. our correctly setup heaters in the artic spec Wolf LR were not hot enough in Norway, alot depends on where you are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 1) Make sure the stock heater is in good form. They get out of adjustment over time - Open up heater vents, in stock form they restrict the airflow. - Check heater flap adjustment - Make sure the thermostat does not leak when closed. 2) Insulate... The stock insulation is quite poor. 3) Add a second coolant based heater that just recirculates and heats. For a 110, these are a good idea. There are low cost aftermarket ones that take up little room. I get to drive in -40 weather every winter, so probably have a little more experience than the UK folk... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Simple question, so forgive me!, - to check the thermostat, do you need to drain all of the coolant? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Simple question, so forgive me!, - to check the thermostat, do you need to drain all of the coolant? no just take the hose off to the housing, unbolt the housing, check it and then renew/replace and refill housing, and bleed system no need to drop it all, in fact you wont loose much. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 What engine have you got? If it's a diseasel and your coming in winter, you WILL need a suplementary heater. As a clue all diseasel LR's sold in Norway come with the cold weather pack as standard equipment, not an optional extra. Usually this is just the coolant heater pre-set to come on at ambient temps of 5°C or lower. You could get this upgraded with a timer so it can act as an engine pre-heater, before starting. Then there is warmth in the cab. The standard heater is just about ok when set up correctly for the front row of seats, anyone in the second row(especially their legs and feet) need arctic sleeping bags. You can as mentioned get an extra air heater that simply plumbs into the coolant and is mounted in the cab, usually under the second row. Don't forget a radmuff, as when it's cool here, you can watch the tempguage drop on a 300Tdi if it's not working hard. To give you an idea of interior temps, climb into a chest freezer for a couple of hours, the coast can be milder. Why drive all the way to Sweden? Unless you like flat endless pine covered tundra? Norway is much prettier and we get the Aurora Borealis here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hobson Posted October 28, 2009 Author Share Posted October 28, 2009 Actuallt it's a toss up between Norway and Sweden, i've heard Norways really beautiful, but expensive. though i doubt Swedens cheap! We have a 300Tdi, 1995, in good nick, i was going to add a bit of extra insulation before we went up, to try and keep what heat we have from escaping through the many orrifices that defenders seem to have! but i know from driving in scotland in winter how bad the standard heater is. So, ideally i need a coolant pre-heater, and a fan heater to keep things toasty? whats recommended? (I'm so looking forward to the brownie points this is going to get me!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
q-rover Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 Well why not do both? To be 'guaranteed' seeing northern lights, you'll have to get above the arctic circle. So you have to get to Denmark first whether you are going to Sweden or Norway, but once there you, can choose. My suggestion would be to go over to Sweden via Copenhagen then start driving North. (google abisko mountain station) Then come back down through Norway and see the fjords and mountains covered in snow. Then take the ferry from Kristiansand to Hirtshals in Denmark. Just make sure you realise that this journy is probably around 2000+miles. However 1 thing that you must seriously consider are SNOW TYRES! Not All Terrain tyres, not Mud and Snow tyres, but proper winter/ snow tyres. I had this one in a Defender with 300Tdi. Would sometimes need to switch it on whilst driving to maintain heat in the cab. You could block off the 'luggage' area so that the area neede to be heated is as small as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wunntenn Posted October 28, 2009 Share Posted October 28, 2009 I've fitted an Eberspacher D4W in my 110 - its a bit fussy about operation - ie can get all hiccupy about sufficient fuel feed, air bubbles in the coolant, overheating etc, but once set up properly is superb. Its had over 10 years regular use in the north of Scotland, and I've had it apart several times to replace various worn out bits, but its pretty easy to work on, and there's easily accessible manuals and spare parts, and most yacht marinas have the diagnostic unit to read the fault codes when its goes down. Having added an inch of closed cell foam all over the ceiling and sides of the vehicle, and at least a 1/4 inch to floor front and back, and bulkhead, it really retains the heat, and is a lot quieter too. I would suggest additional insulation behind the headlining, closed-cell foam stuck to the metal is ideal, and cut some foam to stick over your rear side windows which will add to heat retention, and can be secured as a temporary attachment with sticky backed velcro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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