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Spot Light Options


IanH

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I'm looking to increase the light output when on road for my 2000 defender 110 Td5 (with aircon) but can't decide which is the best way to go about it:

1) Mount a couple of spots on an A-bar - not sure if this is legal anymore?

2) Mount a couple of spots on a light bar - but I'm not sure if this is possible with air-con

3) Mount a couple of spots on the bumper - not sure if this will look a bit naff

4) Use a roof bar - don't think this will look as good

Has anybody got a view on these and/or recommend any good suppliers of suitable mountings and lights. These are for use on road, lighting up the country lanes so need to be legal etc. etc.

I'm okay on the wiring side, its just the best mounting options (oo-err) which I need advice on.

Also - what can I do to brighten up the standard headlamps as well - again not sure what is legal and not for replacement bulb systems etc.

All help appreciated

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Assuming your standard headlamps are working correctly (the connectors are all good and the reflectors aren't rusted) then you can make them much more effective just by using standard wattage bulbs.

I have found that Osram 90% brighter 55/60W are about the best, they have a pure whight light that really works well. Like I said earlier though if your existing lights aren't performing as they should then you need to get that sorted first.

If you want to fit a pair of driving lamps for road use then I can also recomend Hella Rallye 3003 for high-beam, especially when also fitted the Osram 90% brigher 55W bulbs. I have a pair mounted on the bumper and they compliment the headlamps perfectly however having said that, the headlamps are so good that I rarely bring the aux lamps into operation.

I live in the country and a lot of my driving is along un-lit lanes but these work perfetcly for me.

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The best way to enhance your driving lights is to put relays on them using the wire of sufficient thickness. Grab the power straight behind the alternator to the relay, so you will get the best voltage. If you let the car run and measure the voltage form the lamp connector now and after relaying with a proper wire, you will notice a difference of 1-2,5 volts depending on how corrugated your original wires are. Thats is directly proportional to the brightness of your driving lights. A nice plus on top of that is that the current to the lamps is no longer flowing thru the switch on steering column which saves you from buying light switches after another. Only the current needed to operate the relays will flow thru the switch which is a lot less than that needed to operate the driving lights!

And then those Osram Nightbreakers... :i-m_so_happy:

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Thanks guys - keep those sugestions coming - I think I have a few thoughts on sorting out the existing now.

HOweve, I'm not all that much further forward on mounting any additional lamps

  1. Are new A bars legal or not?
    Does anyone know of grill mounting options if air-con fitted?
    Or am I just stuck with bumper mounting?

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  1. Does anyone know of grill mounting options if air-con fitted?

I made a bar which sat across the grille mountings, but behind the grille, attached at each side with two steady arms going down. This has two arms which poke out downwards through the grille and have the lights on the end. It all fixes with the existing grille screws. PM me if you want it, as it doesn't fit anymore. Postage for the bar, + £20 for the pair of Ring 55W spots that go on them!

post-8420-125872376643_thumb.jpg

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I made a bar which sat across the grille mountings, but behind the grille, attached at each side with two steady arms going down. This has two arms which poke out downwards through the grille and have the lights on the end. It all fixes with the existing grille screws. PM me if you want it, as it doesn't fit anymore. Postage for the bar, + £20 for the pair of Ring 55W spots that go on them!

post-8420-125872376643_thumb.jpg

PM Sent

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My plan is to mount either an LED lightbar (expensive) in the grille or two of the flush mount Hella 90mm lamps in the same place. Doing my grille from scratch to be 5lb rock proof (Dempster highway and other rock-throwing roads) so having something integrated and steel in front of the FMIC just seems logical considering how

much those cost.

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