twizzle Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 After giving up on a 1.003:1 LT 230 and fitting 1.222 disco unit and cross drilled gear with the prospect of changing diff ratios I have now sourced one from a nice chap in the Midlands I made a front prop from a cast off 300 Tdi Disco doughnut type prop and my old front prop Ps, has anyone got a set of freewheeling hubs to suit a coiler axle. As in, the ones that come with the LT230 2wd conversion from Ashcroft's? HI'RobotMan' i will have a look in my garage if i still have that half of the kit i'll get back to you a.s.a.p TWIZZLE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
twizzle Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 HI'RobotMan' i will have a look in my garage if i still have that half of the kit i'll get back to you a.s.a.p TWIZZLE found them see wanted twizzle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 I'm still tinkering on with this project, honest. I have built up my Uprated Stage One axle today. Thats using the AEU2522 early 110 CV and 24 - 23 Uprated shafts from Rakeway. Not that difficult really Picture album on Facebook linky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gremlin Posted October 24, 2010 Share Posted October 24, 2010 Did you have to machine the drive flange? Nice job, i had done the same adapting normal parts to suit the stage 1 axle, since prices are silly for them. G PS you should go with a disc conversion next! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted October 24, 2010 Author Share Posted October 24, 2010 Did you have to machine the drive flange? Nice job, i had done the same adapting normal parts to suit the stage 1 axle, since prices are silly for them. G PS you should go with a disc conversion next! I forgot all about the drive flange trimming, well until I went to drop it on lol! No big deal. Discs yes I will but for now I just want to put it back on the road and then I shall revist the brakes. It's all a matter of available time unfortunately. Key jobs for the axle conversion are; Reversing the swivel 1/2 shaft seal pressing. Machine down a set of Standard King Pins and Railko bushes. Machine down the drive flange. Oh and get Stage One hubs, Swivels, especially made shafts and crack on with the job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted May 12, 2011 Author Share Posted May 12, 2011 Still not finished, shameful I know. Other projects and lots of overtime being my excuse! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted July 5, 2011 Author Share Posted July 5, 2011 It moves! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECCANO Posted July 6, 2011 Share Posted July 6, 2011 Awesome, got any more pics on how you did it? did you move the engien forwards? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted July 6, 2011 Author Share Posted July 6, 2011 I'll add more write up later when its actually finished. Essentially it went forwards but also up a bit too. You can see how everything is nicely tucked up underneath. I was hoping to have it finished for the Scott Williams Memorial Trophy this weekend but alas, no. Still I guess I can make do with a classic Range Rover instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 I just have a few jobs left for the MOT now. sheet metalwork around tunnel floor bulkhead. Sort a leaky joint on the exhaust. Re-bleed brakes. Work out why leccy fan is only working in manual now. Speedometer cable to replace. I might even paint it all the same colour! Minor cock up discovered on today's test drive. I seem to have put the driver's side wiper gearbox back to front. Temp fix is to move it to park up over for now. Can't face stripping whole dash out for that. Looks boy racer now! Tyres catching inner wing, big hammer to adjust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ed Poore Posted August 31, 2011 Share Posted August 31, 2011 Robotman - sounds like an awesome plan, can't really help with any of your questions, but by the ease that you appear to have pulled out your gear box, you've given me that bit more motivation to get mine pulled and changed out (I've decided to change my old LT77 for a R380 shortbell - when I eventually get paid that is...) A few questions though, it there plenty of hight with just having the front end up on stands to slide the gear/tran box out together? how did you let it down to the floor, a jack or sling it from inside the cab? Cheers - I'll be following your progress. I've just rebuilt my Series III's gearbox and found it far easier to whip the roof and seatbox off rather than faff around with trying to get it out the bottom (I have the problem that the gearbox cross-member is welded and it's a galvanised chassis so not going to cut it). Getting it back in (there's some pics on a "coolest thing your land rover has done") I just slung a strop around a beam in the barn and put a snatch block on the end and ran the winch from the 110 to the gearbox (I'd rebuilt it in the empty tub with the roof off). Once you get the gearbox out and the roof off it's fairly easy with a couple of people to shunt the rest around underneath to get it into place to simply drop the gearbox back in. I did use a hand winch on the tow-bar to pull it back up the barn but that's because nothing in our place is flat . I'd hazard a guess that you don't have a 7m heigh roof so a 8m tree-stop is probably going to hang too low, but I'm sure an alternative can be arranged. If you don't have a nice handy electric / hydraulic winch available then a hand winch and thick rope should be enough. I then used a trolley jack under the sump to lift the engine and a couple of "normal" car jacks to shunt the gearbox into the correct place and hold it while I bolted it with the electric winch taking the majority of the weight. Took a couple of hours in total to relocate it but I was working on my own and to be honest felt safer using that method than the method I used to get it out (3 1/2 tonne digger) which was struggled a little with it's reach (due to other vehicles in pieces it had to extend the boom from infront of the Series and then it was a bit of grunting and swearing to pull the gearbox out of the way of the bulkhead while the digger lifted it. Also making the job a bit more difficult was that the driver of the digger couldn't actually see what was going on behind the bulkhead. Still gearbox sounds fantastic now (or rather doesn't sound which was the point of the rebuild!) and was great fun driving it around the fields sitting on the fuel-tank with two propshafts spinning away by your left leg. Ideal for hunting moles as you can shoot through the floor (or rather where the floor should be) Now need to finish stripping the cylinder head today to see what state the engine's in... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted September 5, 2011 Author Share Posted September 5, 2011 It passed MOT. Woohoo! Steering is a bit interesting. I think it's down to the Truetrac in the front. It was fine previously when it was 2wd. Looks like I'll be saving up for another ARB. I'll put an open diff in to see how it behaves first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted September 29, 2011 Author Share Posted September 29, 2011 I went over to the lake district in it last week. Loaded up with camping gear, food and firewood. Did some lanes whilst there of course. I really love the crawler like low first I now have and the extra clearance from tucking everything up higher so that nothing, not even the exhaust, dangles below the chassis level. No worries on the rocks of Grizedale any more. The only problem I had was a blown fuse, my fault I had put too small a one in. Swapping the TrueTrac for an open diff did sort the steering. I suppose I ought to give it a lick of paint now I know it all works. Oh and the tent is a 1974 army surplus for a £5 with home made poles, Bargain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted October 3, 2011 Share Posted October 3, 2011 Any chance of some piccies of how you've squeezed the engine and gearbox in? And how the intercooler has been managed? I'm planning something very similar myself in the not too distant future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted October 4, 2011 Author Share Posted October 4, 2011 I'll take some more pictures when I get home next week. squeeze is right though having not touched the chassis or bulkhead at all. Nothing complicated really just a case of trading gains in some areas against losses in another. I did use an intercooler from a 2.8 Pajero, I just had one and it fitted nicely. There must be pictures somewhere in this thread... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 Any chance of some piccies of how you've squeezed the engine and gearbox in? And how the intercooler has been managed? I'm planning something very similar myself in the not too distant future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheRecklessEngineer Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 That's awesome chap - it looks very comfortable there. I plan on starting this next week. Photos will be taken! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 That's awesome chap - it looks very comfortable there. I plan on starting this next week. Photos will be taken! I am really happy with it. I was concerned about the rear prop angle. I knew it was fine in theory but you always have a niggling doubt. I have flexed it and bounced it hard and no sign of contact of the yokes at all. I used a shortened Range Rover front, the highest angle one, to 20 1/2" which is just 1" less than stock. Because the output is now much closer to the line of the spring mounts there is very little movement on the spline. The front is a mixture of a second hand Stage One double cardon and disco rear from the pile of props I had. I don't actually need the DC prop as the front V8 axle with stock hangers and extended shackles sits parallel flange to flange. The main benefit of the raised engine and box apart from not needing to modify the chassis at all was the fact that everything is now tucked up out of harms way. Even the exhaust runs above the crossmembers. Silly little jobs included reversing the gearstick and putting a bend in the transfer lever so the main stick clears it. I used Hella Comet 500 as Spots in the place of the original lamps as they are SO thin. I have loads of pictures but they are scattered across multiple devices. I will be down your way in it July for the Scott Williams Memorial Challenge at West Harptree if you wish to compare ( I expect you will be done by then). Oh and here is a YouTube video where you can see underneath, that's my excuse anyway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 Nice bit of work there, what did you do with the tranny tunnel? I see you've got the Series diaphram on, and is that the Series seatbox? I'm looking at an LT in my 109 and just wondering about the fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 Just made a big metal box to cover it all up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted January 8, 2012 Share Posted January 8, 2012 not a standard LR part then..just wondering, trying to do mine with a view to a soundproofing kit thats all....don't think I could use a defender one unless i change footwells, which could be a problem if i can't hide the LT under the Series one...we'll find out in time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted January 8, 2012 Author Share Posted January 8, 2012 I'll just use camping mat and glue when I get round to it. I did use the lip part of a defender tunnel with the rubber boot rivetted too it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted July 26, 2013 Author Share Posted July 26, 2013 Here is a video of me drivng the waterfall at Seven Sisters at the Scott Williams Memorial. Shame I snapped the short front Rakeway EN24 24/23 spline shaft later on. So much for them being unbrekable. See this new topic for New Shaft Manufacture. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=84930 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
discomikey Posted October 30, 2013 Share Posted October 30, 2013 RobotMan, i know its a few years back now but could i please trouble you for the price of your special axle shafts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobotMan Posted November 6, 2013 Author Share Posted November 6, 2013 RobotMan, i know its a few years back now but could i please trouble you for the price of your special axle shafts? They where £160+Vat each in EN24T from Rakeway. They took several months to arrive and Unfortunately I broke one with a set of 235/85R16 Special Tracks, I do have an Ashcroft Locker in there as well though. Oh and a set of Ashcroft Series Shafts now in the ARB at the back. Neil at Rakeway did offer to make me a set of 300M shafts for £240+VAT each, I declined. I have just ordered a set of 300M shafts from G-B Engineering in Nantwich at £160+VAT each with a quoted 2-3 week lead time. More details in the other thread. I took it for an MOT as a 3x4 last week, sailed through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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