Rust treatment

[ltwt1981]

When treating rust on the landy I always cut out the rotten bits, and weld in new, however in some areas, door frames etc it could be argued that this is going to far.

Could we not treat the rust to kill it and then patch up the rest, not ideal I know but sometimes a quick fix before sourcing a new part may be wanted.

What experience do forumeers have of the various chemicals available, and most important which ones work or don't work.

[kingrat]

I'm currently very happy with this:

http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8293&frostProductName=Granville%20Rust%20Converter%20(250ml)&catID=28&frostCat=Rust&frostSubCat=Others&subCatID=34

where I've applied it the rust is definitely converted, even after the recent weather I see not rust runs anymore

[BogMonster]

I have found Kurust to be very good, not cheap though! Get rid of all the loose stuff, paint it in and it turns rust to a black stuff that can be overpainted with reasonable results. Even if not overpainted the treatment lasts for a good year or so before it starts to rust again.

[milliejasper1111]

Sadly to your answer IMHO there is no real way to "kill" rust, i was a pannel beater for 18 yrs and over that time i have seen all matter of chemicals and fillers used! But the rust always crept through one way or another.

I was taught by a chap who was old school, who would use lead where ever he could, but its not cost effective anymore.

A lovely skill to have, sadly one which is really not practiced too often now (except in full blown classic rebuilds)

We never used treatments as such, as there was always the chance of it rearing its ugly head a few months later and the customer returning the car!

I rebuilt an old 2 door Rangie in 96 and it was a total pig, i brought it from a scrap yard and spent the next 2 yrs bringing it round to as new condition.

Every single bit of rust was cut out and repaired in the chassis, any steel pannels were simply binned and replaced, i took no prisoners!

Big problems came when sorting out the body work, like the door bottoms i used lead in them!! and they are heavy enough on their own!!!

If you need to patch things up, remove as much of the rust as you can, as it will only be a problem in years to come,

So called rust killers do slow down the chemical reaction of "tin worm" but its always going to be there The only way to kill it is remove it!!!

Better than stuffing a load of fiberglass or filler over the top of it and watch it all fall out in a few years time.

Ian

[ltwt1981]

Many thanks, it seems it works OK then.

[Anderzander]

I've been impressed by it too.

[taz90]

Kurust gets my vote

[bobtail4x4]

Mmmm atlantic salmon oil

[matt bristol]

angle grinder, not strictly a chemical but gets my vote, if something is so rusty that it is about to fail then no amount of chemicals will bring it back from the edge in my experience.

If its not a structural item grind out the rot and paint/fill to get back the shape. i used to work for a chap restoring Rver P6's (lots of grinding and welding) and he used to fill the repaired silss with old engine oil to prevent rust on the inside - seemed to work I never had to re-weld any of the ones that we had restored.

[chadler]

he used to fill the repaired silss with old engine oil to prevent rust on the inside - seemed to work I never had to re-weld any of the ones that we had restored.

presumably because was doing time for all the motorcyclists his oil-slick-layer had maimed, or because if you had tried to reweld them you would have replicated the Buncefield refinery explosion? I'm not a health and safety guru, but there are some practices that I'm glad have been allowed to fall by the wayside!

[ltwt1981]

I've been looking at this as a way to a temporary slow down in the winter.

Some of us work outside and it's not always great.

If it helps on a door bottom or similar for six months then it's great.

[Myocardial]

Since purchasing my 110 I've been trying to remove as many rusted parts and treat them to improve longevity. In my reading around the web I found this stuff: http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosionremoval.html

Have used both the Deox-C, which is dissolvable in water and the Gel which is applied direct and they have worked really well at removing rust. Pieces can require a couple of treatments and do require overcoating soon after the treatment but 6 months down the line and I've not noticed any outbreaks or paint flaking.

Here's a link to a thread on the Nissan 200SX owners forum where a chap uses this stuff to restore his car to better than factory standard: http://www.sxoc.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=283826&page=7

[Part1cle]

Whatever you use its more important to get to the back side of the repair and clean-up and/or repair as well. The only time I've had rust return is where moisture has come through a panel joint, pin hole or hairline crack and lifted the new filler/paint.

I used to use some stuff in a yellow bottle, can't remember its name, that turned any remaining rust dark blue - thats when I realised about pin holes etc. as the surface looked good until that stuff was applied.