bm52 Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Hi on Sunday i'm going to change my droning o/s front wheel bearing and it's the first time for me doing this job. can you advise if i need a seal/gasket between the flange and the hub. also - do you realy need to remove brake pipe from the caliper or can i keep the pipe attached and 'hang' the caliper out of the way? i've got the timken bearings and inner oil seal already. it's on a 1995 300 tdi. thanks in advance bm52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MJIbex Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 Hi on Sunday i'm going to change my droning o/s front wheel bearing and it's the first time for me doing this job. can you advise if i need a seal/gasket between the flange and the hub. also - do you realy need to remove brake pipe from the caliper or can i keep the pipe attached and 'hang' the caliper out of the way? i've got the timken bearings and inner oil seal already. it's on a 1995 300 tdi. thanks in advance bm52 I usually just used RTV sealant, with no problems. I never had to remove a brake pipe either. Mark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 The drive flange should have a gasket on it. I cant see how you can remove the hub without moving the caliper? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted March 5, 2010 Share Posted March 5, 2010 This thread that Les H made a while ago Defender 300Tdi front wheel bearing change is just what you need for guidance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 You can hang the caliper if you like, but you have to be very careful not to weaken or fracture the pipe. It's just more convenient to remove the caliper and set it aside. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm52 Posted March 6, 2010 Author Share Posted March 6, 2010 thanks for all the advice and the shortcut. i'll start early tomorrow - in reality that's going ti be about 9. hopefully finish by noon? probably famous last works when i did the rear bearings it was quite straight forward, i just took my time. the only delay was a damaged brake pipe so i had to wait a day or so for a replacement. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 Arm yourself with a roll of copper pipe and the fitting tools, so if you do split a brake pipe, you can just knock up a new one there and then. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonb Posted March 6, 2010 Share Posted March 6, 2010 Don't forget you will need a brass drift (bit of brass bar from B&Q will do) to knock out, and knock back in, the outer races of the 2 bearings into the hub casting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dantd5 Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 As the adults have said , hang them up on the "hockey stick" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 Don't forget you will need a brass drift (bit of brass bar from B&Q will do) to knock out, and knock back in, the outer races of the 2 bearings into the hub casting. I normally just use a big screwdriver to knock them out, and then use the old races cut with a grinder (as per les's instructions) to knock them back in again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 just done this myself. Use the old bearing race to knock in the new ones. Cut a slit in the old ones so they go in and come out easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm52 Posted March 7, 2010 Author Share Posted March 7, 2010 all done - no issues at all, followed your advice and Les's instruction. i was going to disconnect the hose but i found that the bracket had already been 'cut' so i loosened the locknut and just hung it all out of the way. the only problem i had was a three hand one. i just could'nt get the circlip on and keep the shaft pulled out so i employed my son to hold the bolt in the end of the shaft and pull slightly and the clip then went on. looks like it was the inner race making the noise, it was greased but the track was showing signs of pitting, i assume that was the noise. oh - Les. after reading your how to do it; I kept reminding myself of your phrase "clean it cleaner than a clean thing" that has been going round and round in my head all bl**dy day !! not sure if my 90 has ever been clean in it's life and defenders are not naturally clean but at least one little bit is now.! anyway job done with help from a great forum. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Henson Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 The reason for cleaning is for a few reasons - Dirt will get inside 'cos you just took it all apart and it fell inside the hub, particles from the old bearing will be in there and may accelerate wear of the new part, and if you clean it all up, it shows you've done the job properly. Les. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bm52 Posted March 7, 2010 Author Share Posted March 7, 2010 The reason for cleaning is for a few reasons - Dirt will get inside 'cos you just took it all apart and it fell inside the hub, particles from the old bearing will be in there and may accelerate wear of the new part, and if you clean it all up, it shows you've done the job properly. Les. i read, i listened, i cleaned, i learnt ta muchly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wex Posted March 7, 2010 Share Posted March 7, 2010 i read, i listened, i cleaned, i learnt ta muchly You weren't the only one Les , article (and a few others infact) was a gift to me a few weeks back , many thanks ! Excellent forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 One brief addendum - if you're *really* lucky, you may discover that some kind person who last worked on your 300TDi's bearings thought it would be a good idea to do both the nuts up to TD5 torque levels rather than something that could actually be moved with a box spanner... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 @PS_Bond Yeah my nearside hub nuts required three extension bars to make it about 3 feet long. The box spanner slipped off more than once and i was swearing more than normal for the 30 mins it took to remove it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PS_Bond Posted March 8, 2010 Share Posted March 8, 2010 @PS_Bond Yeah my nearside hub nuts required three extension bars to make it about 3 feet long. The box spanner slipped off more than once and i was swearing more than normal for the 30 mins it took to remove it. Yeah, I ran through a long vocabulary when my newly-acquired box spanner twisted out of shape due to that (although it didn't need a 3' bar to knacker it!). Gave in and bought an impact socket to shift them, then hammered the spanner back to shape. I might redo the heat-treat on it and give it a bit more spring when I get a round tuit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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