Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 Still got oil leaking from rear hubseal after replacing the seals found that it leaked again because the breather was blocked now the breather is clear the damn thing still leaks like a cheap tent. Would the new seals have been knackered by the pressure from the diff when the breather was blocked but shouldnt the seals just re-seal once the pressure was relieved? I dont know the answer....any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 How is the seal land on the stub axle? Is it heavily grooved or pitted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 Yep, sometimes the running surface on the stub axle gets grooved and won't seal. The easiest solution is a new stub axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 I have to say I didnt notice. If so is that an expensive job parts wise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 Quite expensive yes, have a look see: http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?xSearch=FRC3132 This assumes you have a Defender with drums on the rear. If it's discs on the rear (300Tdi on) then you would need this (much more expensive) one: http://www.brit-car.co.uk/search.php?xSearch=FRC8540 I don't know how the quality of pattern stub axles fares I'm afraid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 I did not realize they cost that much. You can "usually" get a light skim of the seal surface on a lathe and it will work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted June 23, 2010 Author Share Posted June 23, 2010 Thanks for all the info. Oh well It could be worse..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Retroanaconda Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 I've heard of building the area up with a couple of seams of weld, and then turning them down to the correct diameter on a lathe before. Don't know how well it would work though, but got to be worth a shot if you've got the facilities/capabilities Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hybrid_From_Hell Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 What seal have you uewd ? If not this (RTC3511) try one - it seals in two places and often different to where worn Nige Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 If you look at the sealing surface, and where the seal is... try pushing the seal in a bit, so the sealing edge is working on a different part of the surface. Bit of a bodge, but will work for a while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tweetyduck Posted June 23, 2010 Share Posted June 23, 2010 if you can find somewhere to spray weld it that would work but to be honest its probably going to be cheaper to get a new one. I'm currently looking for somewhere to do my output flange off my trans box. Once i've found somewhere i will post in the forum as i have at least two items i need doing. Another trick is spiral welding but i guess this is just as expensive. Both involve a weld in one way or another and turning back to a good finish. Be aware i've had some shoddy output flanges delivered so i can't see the Britpart stubs being any better although the fronts (pattern but not sure of make)i've seen in the local part place looked OK. I'd buy over the counter so to avoid the chance of a return and the hassle. Ring Brit-Car and ask what they look like, they're a good bunch so will sort you out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicks90 Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 if the sealing surface is pitted, do not despair about the cost of a new stub axle as you may get away with not having to buy one. the area that is pitted is not a load bearing area and is only there to provide a nice smooth surface for the hub oil seal to sit against. I had the same issue on the rear of my 90 and i took the stub axle off and gave it a thorough degrease and clean. I then smeared an extremely thin layer of 'liquid metal' on the surface to fill in the pits and grooves worn into the surface and left it to cure. I then used a bit of wet and dry to make sure it was all perfectly smooth and level and refitted. Not leaked once since. Unfortunately i did not take any photos, but as the other side of the back axle is now leaking i may have the same issue on that side and i'll do a writeup with piccies at some point in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jimmy Two-Jacks Posted June 24, 2010 Author Share Posted June 24, 2010 Cheers All, Will have a look at what its like and see what can be done and let you know how I get on. James Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RustyNissanPrairie Posted June 24, 2010 Share Posted June 24, 2010 dont bother with welding etc of bearing surfaces. I've used Chicago Rawhide/SKF-Speedisleaves at work loads of times, http://www.skfmarcomms.co.uk/focus/speedi.htm either turn the part down and install the sleave or just install it over the existing (worn) running surface. Neill. The transfer flanges can be polished to remove the machining marks-I did mine and its been fine. There's very little internal pressure in a transfer box especially with the breather lines. The scored hub axles cant be turned down though-the OD becomes to small for the seal to work properly, either Speedisleave or replace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bush65 Posted June 25, 2010 Share Posted June 25, 2010 The answer is among the various posts above. Most important points are: Make sure you use the double lip oil seal (RTC3511) as Nigel suggested - when Land Rover changed to grease lubricated wheel bearings they went to a poor seal, that is not suitable for oil sealing (or water, dust sealing for that matter). Make sure sure the seal journal on the stub axle does not have grooves worn in it. If so press the seal into a different position in the hub so the sealing lips are away from the groove or use a speedisleeve or replace the stub axle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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