Handbrake adjustment

[Reiny]

Can anyone explain to me, in layman's terms, how I should go about adjusting the hand brake on an R380 gearbox? Over the years, it has progressively lost its bite and is now only holding the vehicle on a slight incline on the last click. I guess the cable is stretched.

[Maverik]

There is an adjuster nut on the cable housing hose at the oposite end to the handle (under the truck, next to the transfer box) if you've ever had a bike with cable brakes and had to adjust them on the handlbar lever, its the same principal.

There is also a balance screw on the drum for adjust pad wear.

[Maverik]

and here it is...

[Reiny]

You're the man! Thanks a lot. Another daft question. Do I take up the slack with the hand brake engaged or not?

[Maverik]

You're the man! Thanks a lot. Another daft question. Do I take up the slack with the hand brake engaged or not?

It will be a bit of trial and error to work out where you want the bite point as is where, but your should do it with the brake off as then there wont be tension in the wire making adjustment a lot easier.

[zim]

If you've not done it for that long, then i'd start by adjusting the nut on the back of the handbrake drum housing. I'm sure there's a thread in the tech forum on how to do it, quite literally just screw it in

G

[errol209]

The relevant book of the workshop manual is here, section 70 near the end.

[landroversforever]

This is how I adjusted mine, its not perfect in that it only fully engages a few clicks from the end, but it works...

This might be the wrong way, or an awkward way, but it worked for me .

• Hand brake off, with front wheels chocked front and back.
  
• Jack rear axle up onto axle stands (leaving rear wheels on)
  
• Lock rear locker
  
• Whilst lying underneath, move back wheels with a foot
  
• Loosen the adjuster until you can't hear any noises
  
• Whilst still turning the wheels gradually tighten the adjuster up until you start hearing it rub
  
• Slacken just enough to stop the brake dragging.
  

HTH

[Gromit]

This is how I adjusted mine, its not perfect in that it only fully engages a few clicks from the end, but it works...

My way:

Chock the wheels & release handbrake

no locker, jack up one rear wheel.

Remove the split pin and clevis pin that holds the handbrake cable fork

Do up square adjuster until the drum doesn't move.

Adjust the handbrake cable at gearbox end until the fork lines up again.

Reconnect the fork

Back the adjuster off two clicks

[LandyManLuke]

This might be the wrong way, or an awkward way, but it worked for me .

Crikey, 100% overkill!

Leave all four wheels on the ground, chocked. With the handbrake off, you should be able to rock the drum on the diff's backlash. Do the adjuster up until the drum can't be turned by hand, then back it off a notch. Pull the handbrake on to see how the pads settle, release it, and then see how the drum turns. At worst, repeat the same process again. Job done.

3 clicks on the handbrake lever is the target.

[Markoteal]

Just for clarity- when we talk about tightening up he adjuster, above, are we talking the nut on the drum or one of the two smaller nuts on the cable up where the wire leaves under the body and enter the cab.

If it's the latter (on the cable) to tighten things up, do I turn the nut on the left ( as I look at them from the drivers side access panel) and move it toward the other nut on the right which appears to be attached to wall between the underside and cab.

Ta

[western]

adjust the transmission brake first with handbrake OFF, then put handbrake on & see how many clicks it takes, your looking for 3 to 4 clicks, if incorrect adjust the cable nuts until it's right.